Paris: Belleville and Ménilmontant

SEE Père-Lachaise Cemetery
16 rue du Repos, 01/55-25-82-10
The mournfully beautiful graveyard evokes an eerie little town, with cobblestone lanes, street signs, ornate mausoleums, and towers. (One tops 66 feet.) Luminaries buried here include Édith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Proust, Molière, and Jim Morrison-whose grave, once a popular place to smoke pot, is now watched over by scowling attendants. Free.

SEE Space Invader mosaic
Quai de Jemmapes at avenue Richerand, space-invaders.com
One of the many colorful, license plate-size tile mosaics surreptitiously cemented to all kinds of buildings in Paris, as well as a handful of cities worldwide (Tokyo, Los Angeles), by French guerrilla artist Space Invader (his nom de guerre). His pixel-like mosaics, inspired by creatures in the eponymous video game, supposedly represent the electronic age, viruses, and alien paranoia.

EAT Dong Huong
14 rue Louis-Bonnet, 01/43-57-18-88
No-frills Vietnamese on a quiet street in Belleville, one of Paris's three Chinatowns. Inexpensive and generously portioned dishes. The peanut soup wins raves for its spiciness. Closed Tues.

EAT Helin
58 boulevard de Ménilmontant, 01/43-49-00-43
A dimly lit spot with sidewalk tables serving superb Kurdish cuisine from Turkey's Anatolia region. The menu goes heavy on liberally spiced barbecued lamb, chicken, and beef, but the most scrumptious dish is the borek, a filo roll with feta inside.

EAT Restaurant Monogaga
79 rue de Belleville, 01/40-03-87-46
An off-the-radar Ivory Coast-style dive, with card tables and folding chairs, dusty Christmas decorations, and inexpensive West African mafés (spicy meats in peanut butter). The chatty waitress doubles as a DJ for the cubbyhole dance floor, where festive diners hip-shake to catchy Coupé-Décalé dance music.

DRINK Café Charbon
109 rue Oberkampf, 01/43-57-55-13
Another stop on the neighborhood bar crawl. Artsy types read and write here in the afternoon, but the café/restaurant is packed by 10 p.m. with dressed-down revelers.

DRINK Le Scherkhan
144 rue Oberkampf, 01/43-57-29-34
The perfect place to begin, or end, the night. Enjoy a beer or three (and incense) at this popular watering hole with a pleasing patina. It's strategically located in the middle of a distinguished bohemian bar-crawl street, which runs southwest from Métro Ménilmontant to rue St-Maur.

PLAY Chicha Habibi Café
127 rue St-Maur, 01/43-38-90-02
The coolest of the Arab hookah cafés sprouting up in eastern Paris. Tunisian students, French designers, Japanese backpackers, and American expats recline on cushions, smoke velvety mint tobacco cooled in water pipes, and eat baklava, a honey-soaked Middle Eastern pastry.

PLAY La Flèche d'Or
102 bis rue de Bagnolet, 01/44-64-01-02, flechedor.com
An edgy club inside a gutted train station, perched over an abandoned railway, running through a rusty pocket of one of Paris's industrial belts. Grab a seat on one of the misfit pink sofas and groove to the DJ's tunes. Sunday-afternoon jazz concerts also draw crowds. From E5 for concerts, sometimes free.

PLAY Nouveau Casino
109 rue Oberkampf, 01/43-57-57-40, nouveaucasino.net
The acoustics for live music are excellent at the "Niou Caz," in spite of the several hundred partiers who fill the club until dawn on weekends. Pop-rock, ambient, broken-beat, house, and even punk acts. Cover from E5.

ESCAPES

Forest of Fontainebleau
Only 50 minutes separate Paris's Gare de Lyon train station from Fontainebleau, the hallowed hunting grounds of kings. It has always been a royal getaway, unlike Versailles, which is first and foremost a showcase of French pomp and diplomacy. Sovereigns continually tweaked the château, which was significantly expanded and decorated by artists summoned from Italy during the Renaissance. The real attraction is the surrounding forest, crisscrossed with trails for excellent hiking. The legendary horse riding is affordable, but can vary from outfit to outfit. Beginners welcome. Book ahead. (Centre Equestre de Graville, 06/26-45-74-46, ferme-equestre-graville.com, E45 for a half-day; Centre Equestre Saint-Georges André Bonneau, 01/64-14-02-37, andrebonneau.com, E20 per hour.)

Cathédrale Notre-Dame of Chartres
For a cathedral sans crowd, grab an hourly train to Chartres, 55 miles from the Montparnasse train station. This cathedral, possibly the world's finest example of Gothic architecture, is larger than its Parisian cousin. Chartres's mismatched towers are visible from the station. Romantics go for the roundabout approach via a footpath along the Eure River, which provides stirring views through the trees. The cathedral holds a robe (currently being restored) that is said to be worn by Mary, but pilgrims seem more interested in the cathedral's 858-foot labyrinth. The Catholic labyrinth consists of a single winding path that leads to a center symbolizing God.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
349244

If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
Tagged
Packing
352262

I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

— Calvin Girvin
Tagged
Packing
482612

Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
Tagged
Packing
360242

Everyone knows that duct tape is great for helping out in travel emergencies, but no one wants to lug around a bulky roll of the stuff. By wrapping a few feet onto a pencil or ballpoint pen, you'll get a miniature roll that does not take up much in the way of additional space.

— Randy Hartselle
Tagged
Packing
524606

A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
Tagged
Packing
353266

Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

— Roland Zuniga
Tagged
Shopping
353274

Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

— Stacy Shaw
Tagged
Planning
339278

Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

— Connie A. Yu
Tagged
Photography
374283

I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
Tagged
Cruises
412318

Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

— Jeff Putel
Tagged
Family Travel
381255

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
Tagged
Packing
374277

I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

— Alena Kerins
Tagged
Packing
380238

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
Tagged
Planning
360263

My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
Tagged
Packing
372258

A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
Tagged
Loyalty Programs
379259

Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

— Harry Bishop
Tagged
Packing
354296

I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
Tagged
Safety
442303

Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
Tagged
Packing
361296

Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

— Nancy Norman
Tagged
Air Travel
370274

I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

— John Eymann
Tagged
Hotels
416344

When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
Tagged
Safety
440319

Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom
Tagged
Technology
411318

Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet
Tagged
Hotels
437320

On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico
Tagged
Packing
347277

I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
Tagged
Hotels
413339

Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

— Rachele Helphill
Tagged
Planning
358278

When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

— Raymond White
Tagged
Packing
351276

Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

— Jean Walsh
Tagged
Technology
391280

I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
Tagged
Hotels
422332

Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES