HOT PROPERTIES

Where to Stay in Vienna

In Austria's pricey capital, five intimate hotels just as we like them: heavy on local flavor and light on your wallet.

The Hotel Rathaus Wine & Design's elegant exterior dating from 1890 (left); one of the 33 wine-themed guestrooms (top right); and the lounge off the lobby

(Hotel Rathaus Wine & Design)

Hotel Rathaus Wine & Design
Salzburg-based chef Klaus Fleischhaker and his wife, Petra, were already busy running a hotel and a Michelin one-star restaurant when they decided to take on a property in Vienna. The couple knew they'd need help revamping the dilapidated, 19th-century Hotel Rathaus, and enlisted Wine Academy graduate Martina Pöll as their go-to hotel manager. The three hit on the idea of dedicating each room to an Austrian wine. After much back-and-forth, they chose 31 winemakers, one distiller of schnapps, and one champagne maker. An identifying wine label runs the length of each door; black-and-white photographs of the vineyard and its cellar hang on the walls; and bottles of its star vintage fill the minibar. With the concept set, the boutique hotel was rechristened Rathaus Wine & Design.

"Sometimes in these modern design hotels you get the feeling of being in a hospital, it's a bit too cold," says Martina. She and the Fleischhakers worked with an Austrian interior designer to make the 33 enlarged rooms sleek yet still cozy. They retained the original dark wood and high ceilings, and added boxy, custom-made light fixtures, flat-screen TVs, skylights, and cream-colored bedding.

The lounge, which overlooks a tiny courtyard, stocks almost 300 wines and serves antipasti such as homemade pâté, local cheeses, and seasonal fruit salads. Martina can organize impromptu wine tastings tailored to guests' interests ($24-$49) and, with advance notice, day trips to the Danube Valley, Burgenland, or Vienna's own Wieninger Wineries, a 20-minute metro ride from the Rathaus's picturesque Josefstadt neighborhood (free tastings; transportation costs vary). Langegasse 13, 011-43/1- 400-11-22, hotel-rathaus-wien.at, doubles from $179, continental breakfast, $5.50, buffet breakfast, $16, free Internet in lobby

Altstadt
The five-story Altstadt rubs shoulders with Baroque townhouses and chic galleries in the cobblestoned Spittelberg Quarter. Built as an aristocratic home in 1902, the design hotel blends a filigreed wrought-iron staircase with funky halogen light fixtures, and scattered works by Andy Warhol and Annie Leibowitz. The 35 rooms and suites are individually decorated, and almost anything goes: prim stripes, splashy patterns, African and Chinese touches, and minimalist furnishings worthy of Philippe Starck's approval. There's even a Freud Room with a suitably big, complex-inducing leather couch (50-minute hour consulation not included). Named for its bright walls, the Red Salon's open fireplace and comfy sofas are the setting for free buffet breakfasts and afternoon tea and cakes. Eleven new rooms dreamed up by award-winning Italian architect Matteo Thun, known for his refined, pared-down style and stark colors, will open in June 2006. Kirchengasse 41, 011-43/1-522-66-66, altstadt.at, doubles from $155, includes buffet breakfast

Drei Kronen
Facing the Naschmarkt, Vienna's largest and most colorful outdoor market, the hotel makes an ideal jumping-off point for exploring the Freihausviertel as well as Vienna's nearby attractions (Theater an der Wien, Secession Building, St. Stephen's, State Opera House). Its 41 art nouveau rooms have blond wood furnishings, bright blue carpets, and crisp white bedding. Three crowns on the facade pay homage to the former empire of Austria, Hungary, and Bohemia, and to the hotel's name. Schleifmühlgasse 25, 011-43/1-587-32-89, hotel3kronen.at/, doubles from $110, includes buffet breakfast

Hotel-Pension Suzanne
A taste of fin de siècle Viennese elegance on a budget, the family-run Suzanne is done up with antique wood furnishings, landscape oil paintings, and plush chairs in deep shades of burgundy and green. The nine larger apartments have kitchenettes and sleep between three and seven people. It's central--around the corner from the State Opera House and the main drag Kartnerstrasse--without being noisy; nearly all the rooms face an inner courtyard. Walfischgasse 4, 011-43/1-513-25-07, pension-suzanne.at, doubles from $115 and apartments from $138, includes buffet breakfast

Pension Nossek
Mozart lived here briefly while drafting The Abduction from the Seraglio and the Haffner Symphony in the early 1780s. Most likely he was drawn to the building for the same reason as countless modern-day tourists: its unbeatable location. The small, family-run pension is a few minutes' walk from St. Stephen's Cathedral and Hofburg Palace, once the winter residence of Hapsburg emperors. Spacious front rooms have gorgeous views overlooking the shop-lined, pedestrian-only Graben. Original stucco, parquet floors, and crystal chandeliers add some pizzazz to the conventional floral bedspreads and wood furnishings. Book early! Graben 17, 011-43/1-533-70-41-0, pension-nossek.at, doubles from $132, includes buffet breakfast

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

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Frequent fliers should consider noise-cancellation headphones. They have a built-in device that "hears" low-frequency sound just before you do and generates a sound wave that cancels it out. Several manufacturers make them, ranging in price from $40 to $300 or so.

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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

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Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

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Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

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On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

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Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

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Want to visit museums with your children without the boredom and tears? Go to the gift shop first and buy postcards of the museum's most famous works. Have your kids treasure hunt for these masterpieces. When you get home the postcards can go right into your trip album.

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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

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I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

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If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

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Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

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Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

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Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

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