WALKABLE CITIES

Portland, Maine

Once resolutely working-class, Portland is changing fast. You can still buy fresh oysters, but now they'll shuck 'em for you

At Duckfat in Portland, Me., a sour-cherry-butter panini, a cherry-lime soda, and fries cost just: $9.50

(Morgan & Owens)

An intense revitalization effort began years ago in Portland's cobbled Old Port area, transforming it into a clutch of galleries, microbreweries, and stylish boutiques.

Today, it seems like every corner of Portland is being rehabbed, including the once-dicey Munjoy Hill. Inventive chefs in search of ultrafresh seafood and produce are hanging out shingles like mad. The result is that Portland has more restaurants per capita than any other U.S. city except San Francisco, and many serve a lot more than just lobster rolls and a good bowl of "chowdah."

Some places, thankfully, never change. For 15 years, Becky's Diner has opened at 4 a.m. to serve pancakes and eggs to fisherman. You can see what the fishermen caught at the Harbor Fish Market. You can even buy lobsters packed for travel--around $50 for four (prices are seasonal).

Portlanders love the chowder at Gilbert's and the "raw and nude" oysters on the waterfront at J's, which hasn't changed a bit since the 1970s. Any non-seafoodies should check out The Flatbread Company, a dockside restaurant that bakes organic pizzas, like its nitrate-free maple-fennel sausage pie, in an igloo-shaped wood oven. Or head to restaurant row on Middle Street for a meal at Duckfat, specializing in indulgent snacks like Belgian fries (cooked in duck fat) and panini filled with sour-cherry butter. Walk it off by trekking crosstown to the Victoria Mansion, one of the country's best-preserved pre-Civil War residences. Sea-inspired masterworks by Winslow Homer and the Wyeths hang on the walls of the nearby Portland Museum of Art, designed by I.M. Pei's architecture firm.

After a long day hoofing it around Portland's hills, treat yourself to an expert foot massage at SOAK Foot Sanctuary and Teahouse, followed by dinner at Portland's best new restaurant, 555. Run by two transplants from Napa Valley, it has a well-curated list of wines available as tasting pours. If you eat just one thing while in town, let it be the Bang's Island mussels, steamed in chive butter with pickled cherry peppers, roasted garlic, and white wine.

The West End, a historic residential neighborhood with a leafy promenade, is full of B&Bs that are great alternatives to the city's pricey waterfront hotels. Guests at the Percy Inn stay in one of seven antique-filled rooms named after poets; the narrow 1830s townhouse also features a cozy reading room with fireplace and a 24-hour help-yourself snack pantry.

For an only-in-Portland tour by water, hitch a ride with the mail boat as it makes deliveries around Casco Bay. One of the prettiest stops is Great Chebeague Island. See Mac, "the Bike Guy," at the intersection of South and North Roads, and sign out one of the sets of wheels in his front yard that he loans out for free.

If you're tempted to spend the night, reserve a room at the Chebeague Orchard Inn B&B. Neil and Vickie Taliento have been innkeepers for 15 years and have the details nailed--cut sweet pea blossoms from their garden, tubes of Tom's of Maine toothpaste, and blueberry pancakes at a farmhouse table. They'll even greet you right at the dock.

Transportation

 

  • Casco Bay Lines 207/774-7871, cascobaylines.com, round trip to Great Chebeague $9
  • Lodging

     

  • Percy Inn 15 Pine St., 207/871-7638, percyinn.com, $139
  •  

  • Chebeague Orchard Inn 66 North Rd., 207/846-9488, web.nlis.net/~orchard, from $125
  • Food

     

  • Becky's Diner 390 Commercial St., 207/773-7070
  •  

  • Gilbert's 92 Commercial St., 207/871-5636, chowder $5
  •  

  • J's Oyster 5 Portland Pier, 207/772-4828
  •  

  • Flatbread 72 Commercial St., 207/772-8777, pizza $16
  •  

  • Duckfat 43 Middle St., 207/774-8080 555 555 Congress St., 207/761-0555, mussels $12
  • Activities

     

  • Victoria Mansion 109 Danforth St., 207/772-4841, $10
  •  

  • Portland Museum of Art 7 Congress Sq., 207/775-6148, $8
  •  

  • SOAK Foot Sanctuary 30 City Center, 207/879-7625, from $25
  • Shopping

     

  • Harbor Fish Market 9 Custom House Wharf, 207/775-0251
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    Travel Tips

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    Loyalty Programs
    370277

    Before using frequent-flier miles, investigate how much the flight actually costs. For example, it takes at least 25,000 miles per person to travel from Boston to Alaska. The same flight cost us $288. After paying for our tickets, we received enough additional miles to travel for free to Sweden instead of Alaska!

    — Bobby Pellant
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    Air Travel
    385278

    Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

    — Nina Gormley
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    Packing
    420603

    If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

    — Rebecca Oberg
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    390320

    There's nothing worse than trying to fall asleep under a mosquito net and then realizing that the bugs are finding a way inside. So next time you're heading someplace tropical--where you know you'll be sleeping under mosquito netting--remember to toss a roll of Scotch tape into your suitcase. It's perfect for quick repairs.

    — Christopher Swain
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    Cruises
    519602

    Public libraries in the ports of Alaska are a tremendous money-saver. Who wants to pay $5 a minute for Internet use from a cruise ship? During a port stop on a recent Alaska cruise, we found a city library that offered free Internet use for 15 to 30 minutes. Our only cost was a short wait in line.

    — Gail G. Jenkins
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    Road Trips
    401355

    For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

    — Karen Holt
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    Packing
    391272

    Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

    — Terry Clemson
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    Air Travel
    361257

    The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

    — Audrey Ting
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    Planning
    359275

    I live in coastal Florida, where the electricity sometimes goes out during violent storms. Before a trip, I place a few ice cubes in a plastic bag and put the bag in the freezer. If the ice has melted and refrozen by the time I get home, I'll know we've had a power outage and that any food left in the refrigerator may be unsafe to consume.

    — Brigitte Emick
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    Technology
    412311

    To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

    — Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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    Car Rentals
    358263

    Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

    — Doreen Stelton
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    393250

    My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

    — Kathy Hopkins
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    Photography
    380281

    I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

    — Ed Danyo
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    Planning
    356266

    If you're traveling with someone, discuss a central meeting place in case you get separated. My husband and I were in Paris waiting to board the Metro. He was able to board the train, but I was left behind on the platform. Having a plan saved both time and needless anxiety.

    — Marian Moss
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    Solo Travel
    343264

    When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

    — Kelly Christensen
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    Planning
    367293

    You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

    — Ed Clancy
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    Planning
    382251

    Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

    — John Nechman
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    Air Travel
    383268

    On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

    — Bill Serues
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    357272

    Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

    — Rose Jakubaszek
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    377303

    Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

    — Martha and Ken Wiseman
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    351291

    When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

    — Gina Beyer
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    397336

    The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

    — Wendy Maloney
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    Packing
    381244

    When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

    — Keely McNerney
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    Hotels
    438320

    On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

    — Michele Chico
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    390275

    When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

    — Joyce Morden
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    Packing
    375268

    I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

    — Abbie-Stuart Fox
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    363261

    When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

    — Shane Kays
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    Transportation
    363245

    When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

    — Stuart Hanzman
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    Packing
    359265

    Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

    — Kathryn Murphy
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    Packing
    389303

    After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

    — Jennifer Minton

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