SNAP GUIDE

Rome: Tridente, Via Veneto, Villa Borghese

The elegant, crowded area from Piazza del Popolo to the Spanish Steps is retail heaven. To the east, Villa Borghese is a green escape. Below, Via Vittorio Veneto's hotels and cafés draw seekers of la dolce vita.

SEE Ara Pacis Museum
Lungotevere in Augusta near Ponte Cavour, 011-39/06-8205-9127
In 1996, American architect Richard Meier was commissioned to design a new exhibition space for a celebratory altar from 9 b.c., one of the finest surviving examples of Roman sculpture. Meier's contemporary-looking pavilion, which has been criticized for its resemblance to a "Texas gas station," is the first new building erected in the historic center of Rome since Mussolini's reign. Closed Mon. $8.25.

SEE Crypt of the Capuchin Monks
Under Santa Maria Immacolata Concezione, Via Veneto 27, 011-39/06-487-1185, cappucciniviaveneto.it
From the 17th to the 19th centuries, the skeletons of thousands of Capuchin monks were dismantled and meticulously arranged, according to bone type, in six chapels. Ribs and finger bones form delicate floral motifs, and femurs are stacked like firewood under dioramas of still-clothed skeletons said to be waiting for the Second Coming. Some visitors are freaked out by the "corrupt" use of human remains, but most are too fascinated to care. Closed Thurs. A small donation of a euro or two is expected.

 

  • TIP To skip the frequently long lines for entry to the Colosseum, buy your tickets at the Palatine box office (200 yards away, on Via di S. Gregorio 30). Palatine tickets are good at the Colosseum, and vice versa, and once you have your ticket, you can proceed past the line and straight to the entry turnstiles. You can also prebook your tickets through Pierreci (011-39/06-3996-7700, pierreci.it) and pick them up directly at the Colosseum will-call window, but there's a $2 surcharge. Colosseum/Palatine tickets from $11. Cash only.
  • EAT Osteria della Frezza
    Via della Frezza 16, 011-39/06-3211-1482, gusto.it
    A '30s-style osteria, where small plates (cicchetti) are paired with great wines. Choose from cheeses, olives, and charcuterie, as well as tapas-sized helpings of dishes like roasted lamb. In a back room, you can enjoy traditional meals. But the front salon, with its black-and-white tiles and dark wood and leather, is where the action is.

    EAT San Marco
    Via Sardegna 38G, 011-39/06-4201-2620
    Take your pick from the countless pastas, meats, and pizzas served in differently styled dining rooms, including a modern New York--style bar area in front and a cozy, library-ish back room. Professionals from the offices around Via Veneto have made this their go-to happy hour and casual dinner joint. It's big and efficient enough, though, that you'll never wait for a table.

    DRINK Caffè delle Arti
    Via A. Gramsci 73 (next to the Villa Borghese park), 011-39/06-3265-1236
    On a terrace attached to the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna and shaded by the trees of the Villa Borghese, this is a great spot for a midday glass of wine or beer. From May to September, the bar stays open well into the evening, with balmy weather drawing an attractive crowd into the depths of the park. Closes at 6 p.m. Mon.

    SHOP C.U.C.I.N.A.
    Via Mario de' Fiori 65, 011-39/06-679-1275, cucinastore.com
    Outfit your kitchen at the emporium of wooden, earthenware, and stainless-steel cooking tools, in basic shapes that have served Italian housewives for centuries. Primitive, inexpensive machines (food mills for homemade tomato sauce, Bialetti stove-top espresso makers) may look unfamiliar, but they're the staples of the Italian kitchen. Closed Mon. morning and Sun.

    SHOP Fabriano
    Via del Babuino 173, 011-39/06-3260-0361, fabrianoboutique.com
    One of Italy's most renowned stationers, home to upscale art and writing papers, as well as beautiful blank journals and address books, some bound with reproductions of old maps of Rome and Venice. Closed Sun.

    PLAY Villa Borghese rowboats
    Laghetto di Villa Borghese
    A man-made lake, complete with fake Roman temple, in the heart of the city's most famous public park. The barche a remi (boats) aren't the swiftest vessels, but they're a giddy way to break out of the sightseeing grind. 10 a.m.--7 p.m. daily, weather permitting. $6.25 per hour, cash only.

     

  • God's green earth: visiting the gardens at the Vatican
    Once you've paid homage to Bernini's talents at St. Peter's Square, ogled Michelangelo's handiwork at the Sistine Chapel, and wandered through the numerous smaller museums at the Vatican, consider taking in the gardens to the north and west. Once filled with vineyards and orchards, the space is now laced with winding paths, flowers, groves, and fountains--a true oasis in the middle of Rome. There are also medieval structures built by popes past, including the prominent Villa Pia. Two-hour garden tours usually depart Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 10 a.m. Reserve at least four days in advance by calling 011-39/06-6988-4676, or e-mailing visiteguidate.musei@scv.va. $15, cash only. For more info, contact the Vatican Tourism Office (011-39/06-698-81662, vatican.va).
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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    Road Trips
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    Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

    — Cynthia Stone Stewart
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    Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

    — Marilyn Rogers
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    Photography
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    Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

    — Hugo Scherzberg
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    I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

    — Jeff Mishur
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    Car Rentals
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    Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

    — Doreen Stelton
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    Planning
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    Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

    — Tony Reynolds
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    Technology
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    I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

    — France Freeman
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    I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

    — Margot Johnson
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    Safety
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    Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

    — Connie Crusha
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    Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

    — Chandra Huang
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    Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

    — Michael Gray
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    Everyone knows that duct tape is great for helping out in travel emergencies, but no one wants to lug around a bulky roll of the stuff. By wrapping a few feet onto a pencil or ballpoint pen, you'll get a miniature roll that does not take up much in the way of additional space.

    — Randy Hartselle
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    Hotels
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    Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

    — Audrey E. Vance
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    Transportation
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    I prefer laminated city maps because I can circle all the things I want to see in a given day with a dark erasable marker. Once I have everything marked, I plan my route and start walking. The next day, I erase the previous day's marks and begin all over again.

    — Sandy Hughes
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    Transportation
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    Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

    — Carol P. McCrea
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    When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

    — Geri Kronyak
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    When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

    — Fran Schaak
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    Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

    — Marc Oppy
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    Planning
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    If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

    — Donna Johnson
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    Safety
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    I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

    — Jackie MacNeil
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    Safety
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    I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

    — Lila Held
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    Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

    — Jonelle Niffenegger
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    Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

    — Gail Moriarty
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    Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

    — Rita Young
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    Ask your flight attendants for dining, lodging, shopping, and sightseeing advice. Most crews have up to the minute information gleaned from layovers, which they're more than happy to share with passengers. You can count on flight attendants to seek out budget treasures. I know—I've been married to one for more than 21 years!

    — Fred Manget
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    In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

    — Christine and Duncan Orr
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    Packing
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    Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

    — Claudette Christman
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    Packing
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    On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

    — Aaron Lisle
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    Air Travel
    374258

    Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

    — Lynne Heath
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    Packing
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    Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

    — Kay Euhus

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