SNAP GUIDE

Rome: Trastevere and the Gianicolo

Rome's village-like left bank is the centro storico's funky little sister. Its northern streets, around Regina Coeli prison, have become a cool bohemian enclave. Take it all in from the tree-lined Gianicolo hill.

SEE Il Gianicolo (Janiculum hill)
Passeggiata del Gianicolo (stairs from Via Garibaldi)
Dominating the northwestern boundary of Trastevere, Rome's lookout par excellence is a long ridge lined with stately trees and busts of famous Italians. At the southern end of the panoramic walk is the Fontanone, an oversized 17th-century fountain basin. At the northern end, the Janiculum cannon fires a blank shot every day at noon, scaring the bejesus out of unprepared bystanders.

SEE Villa Farnesina
Via della Lungara 230, 011-39/06-6802-7268
Just past the ancient city gate of Porta Settimiana, the former residence of the Chigi, a family of hard-partying Renaissance bankers, has lush, marine-themed frescoes by Raphael. The eye-popping Triumph of Galatea, with its undersea background of teal blue, is a visual treat when you've seen one too many earth-toned renditions of the Madonna and Child. Closed Sun. $6.25. Cash only.

EAT Hostaria da Corrado
Via della Pelliccia 39, 011-39/06-580-6004
Massimo Conti's humble kitchen functions mostly as a canteen for the motorcycle mechanics and furniture craftsmen whose shops are nearby, but anyone is welcome to have a sit-down meal here. The menu is small and changes daily, but count on hearty pastas, side dishes of spinach and cicoria (chicory), and roasted meats, accompanied by killer rosemary potatoes. Closed Sun.

EAT Sisini Venanzo
Via di S. Francesco a Ripa 137, 011-39/06-589-7110
It looks like just another Roman pizza-to-go joint from the outside, but discerning locals will walk several blocks (which is saying a lot in this Vespa-dependent town) to get a slice of the mushroom-and-potato pizza. Closed Sun. Cash only.

SPLURGE Rivadestra
Via della Penitenza 7, 011-39/06-6830-7053, rivadestra.com
The "Right Bank" (a puzzling name, since it's in Trastevere) takes a stand against the minimalist aesthetic that has swept through Rome's culinary scene in recent years. The restaurant flouts fusion in favor of gourmet Italian cooking. The menu, which has included such items as creamed asparagus with oysters and turbot with espresso sauce and snap peas, changes every month. The intimate dining room looks like it came from an 18th-century papal palace, with iron candelabras and an ornate green front door. A trendy, buzzy spot for artists and jet-setters in the up-and-coming neighborhood around Regina Coeli prison. Dinner only. Closed Sun. $57 per person, excluding wine.

DRINK Ombre Rosse
Piazza Sant'Egidio 12, 011-39-06/588-4155
Little more than a glorified coffee bar, but as long as you've got good company and you can snag a table on the front porch, you've got one of the best watering holes in Trastevere. Every night, from sundown to the wee hours, characters from all walks of Roman life walk through the tiny piazza. Settle into a bright blue chair, order a vodka lemon, and watch the parade go by. Closed Sun. morning.

SHOP Fuori Orario
Via del Moro 29, 011-39/06-581-7181
Display tables in the tiny boutique are filled with colorful trousers, embellished tees, and funky skirts by smaller French and Italian labels, but the real deals here are the leather jackets for men and women. Most are under $200, and the wide range of styles and colors demonstrates Italian design sense: Jewel tones like teal and yellow are muted, not garish, and cuts are sexy and flattering.

 

  • ESCAPE Ostia Antica
    Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica, 011-39/06-5635-8099
    The easiest and perhaps most worthwhile day trip from the city is to ancient Rome's port town. The shady, sprawling archaeological site includes ruins of tombs, theaters, baths, apartment buildings, public latrines, laundries, bakeries, and the Roman equivalent of the neighborhood café, called thermopolium (hot place). As comprehensive an overview of ancient daily life as Pompeii, and far less crowded. From Porta San Paolo (Piramide metro station) take an Ostia-Lido train to Ostia Antica. Closed Mon. $5.
  • PLAY Big Mama
    Vicolo di S. Francesco a Ripa 18, 011-39/06-581-2551, bigmama.it
    Who knew Rome could sing the blues? Blocky wooden tables in the surprisingly sophisticated, often raucous, basement joint are coated with black paint, spilled beer, and the memory of cigarettes past. International blues, jazz, and soul acts regularly take to the faux-brick-backed stage. Also appearing here are talented local bands, like Più Bestial Che Blues, who will have you dancing to soulful, energetic covers of Prince, Ray Charles, and the Rolling Stones. It's a small place; for tables with the best view of the stage, you'll need to book in advance. Tables are held (without charge) until 10 p.m.; shows start at 10:30 p.m. Closed summer months.

     

  • TIP Restaurants are often closed in August; call in advance to confirm.
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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    Travel Tips

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    Air Travel
    363245

    If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

    — Robyn Volkening
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    Packing
    389275

    When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

    — Sandy Sussman
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    Air Travel
    385278

    Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

    — Nina Gormley
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    Air Travel
    379276

    When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

    — Lynda Self
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    Planning
    374275

    You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

    — Mike Saloudek
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    Planning
    381251

    Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

    — John Nechman
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    Planning
    366243

    Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

    — CaSandra Knight
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    Loyalty Programs
    433657

    Pay close attention to those newsletters enclosed in your frequent-flier statements. They usually contain special offers and promotions that can earn you double or triple miles if you stay at a certain hotel or eat at a certain restaurant.

    — Kim Borisenko
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    Planning
    408262

    When on vacation, I split my cash into envelopes, one per day, so I can keep track of how much I'm spending. If I need to dig into the next day's cash, I'll know that I've overdone it, and if I want to stay on budget, I'll have to cut back the next day. Any money left at the end of the day goes into a separate envelope. I've actually come home with money this way!

    — Wendy L. Phiel
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    Packing
    413290

    In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

    — Erica Rounsefell
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    Hotels
    440361

    If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

    — Tony van Hasselt
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    Packing
    353268

    Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

    — Roland Zuniga
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    Packing
    524607

    A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

    — William Schaeffer
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    Packing
    350260

    I never leave home without dental floss. I've used it as a clothesline between tents in Botswana's Okavango Delta and to replace a lost screw for my sunglasses in Malaysia. I even cut off a piece of floss the size of my waist and headed to the night markets in Bangkok. My "tape measure" assured a perfect fit!

    — Kristi Hemmer
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    Cruises
    459597

    Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

    — Martha and Ken Wiseman
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    Transportation
    368272

    Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

    — Carol P. McCrea
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    Planning
    357270

    If you arrive in a foreign city after banking hours (and you can't use an ATM), convert only the money you'll need for the night. Some exchange booths offer a less favorable rate after banks close and then switch back to competitive rates when banks reopen.

    — Jim Citron
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    Packing
    428617

    Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

    — Linda Phelps
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    Packing
    372258

    For overnight flights, pack a few Oral B Brush-Ups in your carry-on. Before the plane lands, you can "brush" your teeth, leaving you refreshed and ready for the day!

    — Janice Pruitt Winfrey
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    Packing
    359285

    Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

    — Keith Saul
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    Cruises
    417330

    Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

    — Anne Schweisguth
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    Planning
    388275

    When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

    — Joyce Morden
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    Dining
    373279

    To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

    — Bianca Mims
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    Cruises
    386334

    If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

    — Martha and Ken Wiseman
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    Packing
    351277

    Before I embark on a trip, I cover the dirt of my potted plants with plastic bags after watering them well. (Cut a few slits in the bags and keep plants out of direct sunlight.) The soil will stay damp for about three weeks.

    — Jean Walsh
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    Packing
    352263

    I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

    — Calvin Girvin
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    Packing
    380243

    When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

    — Keely McNerney
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    Packing
    361281

    Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

    — Jon Chun
    Tagged
    Transportation
    355252

    Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

    — Dana Hunting
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    Packing
    390300

    My husband packs Q-tips in a plastic cassette case. It's small and snaps shut, keeping the cotton swabs clean and dry.

    — Nancy Bastian

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