SNAP GUIDE

Rome: Testaccio and Ostiense

A chance to experience real daily life. Two of the last bastions of salt-of-the-earth romanità in the city center, these middle-class communities are quirky, with rustic sights and booming nightlife.

SEE Macro al Mattatoio
Piazza O. Giustiniani 4, 011-39/06-6710-70400, macro.roma.museum
A rather melodramatic statue of a naked hero slaughtering an ox crowns the entrance to Rome's defunct abattoir. The main quartering pavilions have been converted into a contemporary art gallery, open 4 p.m.--midnight. Plans are underway for a cultural center with a library and theaters.

SEE Monte Testaccio
Via Galvani, Via di Monte Testaccio, Via Zabaglia
A 150-foot-high mountain made entirely of millions of amphorae (Roman earthenware jugs for oil, wine, and grain) that were broken and dumped in antiquity. You can see the tightly packed potsherds especially well at the corner of Via Galvani and Via Zabaglia; the rest of the hill is covered with grass, trees, and pens with live poultry and goats--in the middle of the city! At night, legions of Roman youths descend on rustic Via di Monte Testaccio, which skirts two sides of the hill and is packed with dance clubs.

EAT Acqua e Farina
Piazza O. Giustiniani 2, 011-39/06-574-1382
A popular pizzeria alternative, where the basic ingredients of water and flour are shaped into mini pies and topped with everything from radicchio and goat cheese to walnuts and Gorgonzola. Eat inside the cozy dining room or outside under the trees.

SPLURGE Checchino dal 1887
Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 011-39/06-574-3816, checchino-dal-1887.com
What began as a humble wine shop and kitchen, serving the workers from the mattatoio (slaughterhouse) across the square, is now considered one of the finest spots in the city for traditional cucina romana, much of which makes use of the quinto quarto, or organ meats, heads, tails, and feet. Set menus ($50--$88, excluding wine) include such delicious--and initially scary--dishes as rigatoni alla pajata (with lamb intestines) and oxtail stew. The reward for your adventurousness is an all-around wonderful meal, with warm service and a souvenir plate. The dining room is built into the side of Monte Testaccio, and the wine cellar is an excavated grotto--the amphora shards reduce humidity and provide temperature control. Reservations essential. Closed Sun. and Mon. as well as August and Christmas week.

DRINK Ketumbar
Via Galvani 24, 011-39/06-5730-5338, ketumbar.it
The hippest and longest-lived of the hot spots on the Via Galvani strip, this stylish Asian-themed lounge is built into the side of Monte Testaccio, whose ancient potshards are visible through a Plexiglas wall panel. You can eat (sushi and creative Italian), but the real scene is after dinner, especially in the colder months. From 11 p.m. to 2 a.m., the candlelit, Buddha-bedecked bar and black banquettes swarm with 20- and 30-somethings.

DRINK L'Oasi della Birra
Piazza Testaccio 38--41, 011-39/06-574-6122
Even Romans like to trade vino for beer once in a while. Find all your favorite brews at this inviting cellar, from Belgium's Chimay to Cuba's Mayabe. There's a menu of comforting soups and sausages and other, lighter snacks.

SHOP Mercato di Testaccio
Piazza Testaccio
Rome's most authentic covered food market is a priceless cultural spectacle, totally in line with your stereotypical notions about Italian community life. In the cacophonous main pavilion, tittering housewives haggle with the fishmonger for fresh prawns and clams. Fresh herbs are sold with the roots still attached. Out on the sidewalks of Piazza Testaccio, away from the food stalls, vendors sell inexpensive shoes, skirts, and trinkets. Sat. is the busiest day. Closed Sun.

PLAY Casa del Jazz
Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, 011-39/06-704-731,casajazz.it
The brand-new "House of Jazz" is a handsome 1930s villa, reclaimed from a Mafia boss and refurbished with a concert hall and recording studio dedicated to the American music genre most loved by Italians. Performances are held almost every night at 9 p.m. inside the 150-seat auditorium or out under the stars and umbrella pines in the garden, which is open daily to the public. Café, bookshop, and restaurant on-site. Ticket prices vary; from free to $25. Cash only.

 

  • ESCAPE Etruscan Necropolis at Cerveteri
    Via della Necropoli, Cerveteri, 011-39/06-994-0001
    The vast "city of the dead" is a dense and thrillingly ancient- feeling jungle of vines and trees that envelop thousands of mound-shaped tombs cut from reddish tufa rock. The carved burial chambers inside the tumuli (which date from the 7th to the 3rd centuries b.c.) are open to anyone willing and able to walk or climb in. Take a COTRAL bus (see p. 1) from Cornelia metro station to the Cerveteri city center. From there, walk 25 minutes or catch the shuttle bus (011-39/06-9955-1971), which runs four times a day. 8:30 a.m.--sunset. Closed Mon. Bus fare and admission from $13. Cash only.
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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    Air Travel
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    Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

    — Nina Gormley
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    Hotels
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    The magnets you use on a refrigerator will also stick well to most hotel and motel room doors, turning them into makeshift bulletin boards. Post theater tickets, itineraries, reminder notes, and any other useful information, then grab what you need before you leave the room for the day.

    — Karen Hartz
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    Car Rentals
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    When renting a car, photograph any damage the car may have before leaving the rental agency; a digital camera records the date and time of each picture. On a recent trip to Argentina, I rented a car with extensive paint damage. When I returned the car, the agency attempted to blame me for the scratches. I showed them my photographs, and they rescinded their accusations.

    — Richard L. Garcia
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    Air Travel
    369261

    Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

    — Sherill Hacker
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    Planning
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    Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

    — Nancy Easterbrook
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    Shopping
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    Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

    — Rami Aboumahadi
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    Technology
    552581

    Making international calls back to the States can be confusing if you're using a calling card and you're dialing a number by its catchphrase, such as CALL ATT. Obviously, many countries don't have the English alphabet on the telephone keypad. My solution? I create my own small keypads on a computer, print them out, and attach them inside my wallet, to my passport, and to my calling cards.

    — Peter Morris
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    Planning
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    I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

    — Christine Size
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    Museums
    382283

    If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

    — Alice M. Solovy
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    Car Rentals
    366258

    Online check-in isn't just for airlines. After reserving an Alamo car over the Internet, I was offered online check-in just by entering my credit card number and driver's license information for approval. At the airport, following Alamo's instructions, I informed the shuttle-bus driver that I had checked in online and reserved an economy car. I was dropped off in the lot and told to pick whichever car I wanted. I drove it to the exit, where my credit card and driver's license were verified on the computer, and I was done.

    — Brad Cook
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    Packing
    355253

    Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

    — Erika Kumada
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    Planning
    374267

    Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

    — Michael Marcarello
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    Planning
    373263

    If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

    — Jean Schwinn
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    Photography
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    Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

    — Connie Van Brocklin
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    Technology
    420282

    I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

    — Kelly Malasics
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    Planning
    358278

    When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

    — Raymond White
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    Family Travel
    381256

    When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

    — Geri Kronyak
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    Planning
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    If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

    — Jackie McGraw
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    Air Travel
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    When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

    — Yoshi Matsuda
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    Dining
    365258

    In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

    — Winston Wong
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    Loyalty Programs
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    Before using frequent-flier miles, investigate how much the flight actually costs. For example, it takes at least 25,000 miles per person to travel from Boston to Alaska. The same flight cost us $288. After paying for our tickets, we received enough additional miles to travel for free to Sweden instead of Alaska!

    — Bobby Pellant
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    Family Travel
    386248

    Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there.

    — Machelle McCoy
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    Packing
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    I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

    — Calvin Girvin
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    Air Travel
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    It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

    — Jasmine Tata
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    Dining
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    I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

    — Charles Locher
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    Packing
    349245

    If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

    — Ursalene Davis
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    Car Rentals
    363261

    When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

    — Shane Kays
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    Shopping
    366263

    When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

    — Andrea Mansfield
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    Air Travel
    371274

    I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

    — John Eymann
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    Technology
    402281

    Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

    — Perry Babel

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