SNAP GUIDE

Rome: Prati, Parioli, and Foro Italico

Above the touristy meridian between the Vatican and Villa Borghese, the neighborhoods of Prati and leafy Parioli have trendy fusion restaurants and fascinating 20th- and 21st-century architecture.

SEE Auditorium Parco della Musica
Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, 011-39/06-8024-1281, auditorium.com
After initial noise about the concert halls' resemblance to giant beetles (which is fair), Romans have heartily embraced the exciting new music and fine arts complex designed by Renzo Piano. Come during the day to tour the site, which includes an ancient Roman villa excavated during construction, and have a snack at the cafeteria. At night, attend a performance by the Accademia di Santa Cecilia symphony or Bob Dylan. Admission to the site is free. Prices for shows vary, from free to $126.

EAT Ai Villini
Via Marcantonio Colonna 48, 011-39/06-321-6766
The kind of perfectly Roman pasta that can inspire a trans-atlantic trip. Crowd in with the locals on their lunch break and order the rigatoni alla carbonara off the handwritten menu. The dish features salty, crisped guanciale, or pork cheeks, Rome's divine answer to thick-sliced bacon. The grilled radicchio and the espresso-soaked tiramisu are not to be missed. Unless you're lucky enough to score a personal invitation from a local, this may be the closest you can get to mama's home cooking. Closed Sun. dinner and Wed. In July closed Sun. lunch.

EAT Duke's
Viale Parioli 200, 011-39/06-8066-2455, dukes.it
Perhaps you didn't come to Rome to eat at a California-inspired restaurant, but Duke's is so well executed, from its breezy, beachy architecture to its strictly locals crowd of young professionals (and a few celebs) to its healthy, delicious food, that it's worth trekking up to posh Parioli for dinner. It's one of the few Roman restaurants with a decent bar scene.

DRINK Chioschetto di Ponte Milvio
East of the northern gate of Ponte Milvio
Just north of the ancient Milvian bridge, where Constantine vanquished Maxentius in a.d. 312, the casual drink shack with a neon Coca-Cola sign and plastic tables on the gravelly roadside is a powerful magnet for 20- to 40-somethings. No frills, no attitude. Open only in summer.

 

  • Dining in Rome
    Birreria pub
    Enoteca wine bar
    Gelateria ice cream/gelato parlor
    Osteria simple tavern serving local wine and food
    Paninoteca sandwich shop
    Pasticceria bakery
    Rosticceria deli selling roasted meats and prepared foods
    Ristorante restaurant
    Trattoria casual restaurant, usually family-run
  • DRINK ReD
    Auditorium, Viale Pietro de Coubertin 12-16, 011-39/06-8069-1630, redrestaurant.roma.it
    If you're lucky, you'll mix with international musicians at this sleek cocktail bar and restaurant in Rome's new center for fine arts. Even if the Brazilian jazz singers and Korean violinists are absent, it's still a hot place for an aperitivo with accompanying free snack buffet from 6:30 p.m.--9 p.m.

    SHOP COIN
    Via Cola di Rienzo 173, 011-39/06-3600-4298
    Often ignored by tourists in search of flashier storefronts, the midrange department store has a fantastic assortment of affordable handbags, belts, socks, scarves, hats, and jewelry on the ground floor. Upstairs, there's fashionably sporty outerwear and upscale lingerie.

    SHOP Del Frate
    Via degli Scipioni 118, 011-39/06-323-6437
    A classy, fully stocked enoteca near the Vatican for people who take their wine seriously. Let the expert staff pour you an under-the-radar vintage. The shop also functions as a wine store, and the genteel folk of Prati wouldn't dream of buying their cases of Barolo elsewhere.

     

  • Via del Quirinale churches
    For a quick and satisfying survey of the florid and frenzied Roman baroque, visit three 17th-century treasures. At Via del Quirinale 29, Gian Lorenzo Bernini's Sant'Andrea al Quirinale looks like a Neapolitan-ice-cream sundae, with swirly pink and white marble and a statue of St. Andrew rising heavenward toward the dome. At Via del Quirinale 23, Francesco Borromini's San Carlino alle Quattro Fontane is a tiny, dizzying space with oppressive, fractured white surfaces that mirror the tortured soul of the architect. A few blocks east, at Via XX Settembre 17, Santa Maria della Vittoria is home to Bernini's famously sexual sculpture Ecstasy of Saint Teresa.
  • PLAY A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio soccer games
    Stadio Olimpico, Piazzale del Foro Italico, 011-39/06-3685-7762, lega-calcio.it
    From September through May, Rome's two Serie A soccer teams (A.S. Roma and S.S. Lazio) play at home against rivals such as Juventus (Turin) and Inter Milan. The atmosphere is loud and passionate. There are plenty of pyrotechnics, but rarely violence; no alcohol or glass allowed. For Roma games, buy tickets at any tabaccheria (tobacco store) that advertises centrally linked "Lottomatica" machines. For Lazio games, buy tickets at Orbis ticket agency (see listing in Essentials, p. 2). Or try your luck at the stadium box office a few hours before kickoff. From $32.

    Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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    Tired of catching colds while traveling? Take along a travel-size package of Clorox wipes. Disinfect the tray table and armrests on the airplane, and the telephone and TV remote in your hotel room.

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    When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

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    Cruises
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    Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

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    — Susan Day
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    Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

    — Martha and Ken Wiseman
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    If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

    — Krista Fowles
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    I always try to work out before heading to the airport. It usually gets me tuckered out enough that I can relax and sleep on the plane. If I don't have time for pre-travel exercise, I take a brisk walk through the terminal before boarding or find a quiet spot in an empty gate for a little yoga.

    — Kimberly Gilbert
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    Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

    — Dan Coviello
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    — Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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    Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

    — Rami Aboumahadi
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    Packing
    361269

    Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

    — Lori Fields
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    Packing
    369285

    Instead of bringing one of those bungee cables to hang-dry my delicates and socks, I pack a couple of mini plastic hangers--the ones that bras and panties come on when you buy them. They take up very little room in my luggage and can be thrown away at the end of the trip.

    — Monica Pileggi
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    When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

    — Kelly Christensen
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    Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

    — Joan Nikelsky
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    When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

    — Heather Crow
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    367284

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    — Chris Carveth
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    When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

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    You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

    — Mike Saloudek
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    I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

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    When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

    — Alice Fraser
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    — Melissa Coplak
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    Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

    — Connie A. Yu
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    Family Travel
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    It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

    — Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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    Family Travel
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    Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there.

    — Machelle McCoy
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    Air Travel
    345255

    Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

    — Lynn Babcock

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