TRIP COACH

Costa Rica Eco-Trip

An eco-conscious couple seeks a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation--with plenty of veggie meals along the way.

(Amanda Marsalis)

This year, David and Laurie Bergthold, of Oceanside, Calif., are celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary--surprising to some, considering the couple got engaged after knowing each other only four months, and were married four months after that. "I think our friends placed bets on how long it would last," says Laurie. "We never really had a honeymoon, unless you count a quick camping trip up the coast, so we're planning to celebrate by going to Costa Rica."

The Bergtholds love to hike, kayak, snowboard, and skateboard--they even have a ramp in their backyard. With nearly two weeks in Costa Rica, they're hoping for a vacation that's mellow but not boring, exciting yet stress-free. "It'd be nice to squeeze in a bit of romance, too," says Laurie. She and Dave throw some wicked curveballs at us: They're vegetarians; they want ecofriendly hotels; they're loath to rent cars and burn fuel; and besides checking out the natural wonders Costa Rica is renowned for, they want to test the local skateboard parks.

Dave went to Costa Rica 12 years ago and has bad memories of the capital, San José. "Too much hustle and bustle," he says, recalling a joke he used to tell his buddies: "The people drive crazy. They don't have brakes, just gas pedals and horns." The city remains rather hectic, so we recommend flying into Liberia, in the hilly northern province of Guanacaste, on the Pacific. (No airline flies nonstop from southern California; Continental has arguably the best connection, via Houston.)

Hacienda Guachipelin, a family-owned cattle ranch, hotel, and adventure-sports wonderland, is the first stop for the Bergtholds. Guests can be picked up at the airport for $40, so at least here Laurie and Dave don't have to rent a car. Breakfast is included in the standard rate ($67 for a double); for $59 more they can get three meals per day, and vegetarian dishes are available on request. "That's good, because Dave is a vegan and will starve us both until we find a good veggie option," says Laurie.

The real draw, however, is the variety of activities and scenery at the nearly 4,000-acre ranch, which borders Rincón de la Vieja Volcano National Park. Visitors to the park sit in warm mud pools or hike to waterfalls and natural hot springs, and a shuttle service from the hacienda is available for $3 each way.

The Guachipelin itself offers plenty of fun, including tubing down rapids on one of the two rivers flowing through the property, and a canopy tour in which guests strap into harnesses and slide through the air on steel lines. "I'm always a little nervous about things like that," says Dave. "But I'm sure killing tourists is bad for business." Many spots in Costa Rica have canopy tours, and Guachipelin's course is one of the quirkiest and most interesting. Participants are taught about natural history and wildlife while zipping between 23 stations lining the sides of a river canyon. Hacienda activities can be paid for à la carte for about $45 apiece; a full-access day pass is $75.

At last check, 59 hotels in Costa Rica have been awarded an official government certificate for earth-friendly practices. The Guachipelin is very eco-conscious--more than 2,200 acres are set aside for conservation and reforestation, solar power heats the water, and some electricity is produced by a waterwheel--and is in the midst of the long application process for a certificate. But like the other hotels in this story, the ranch doesn't bear the government stamp of approval. Many properties implement earth-friendly policies on their own and don't bother with the bureaucracy involved in official certification.

Because Laurie and Dave's itinerary is spread out around Costa Rica, renting a car is pretty much unavoidable. After picking up a rental in Liberia, they plan on driving two and a half hours to Lake Coter Eco-Lodge. Built with an endowment from the World Bank as a model for ecotourism in Latin America, the lodge protects more than 500 acres of primary forestland. As at the Guachipelin, guests can relax in nearby hot springs or try something more invigorating, like kayaking, hiking, or horseback riding. The property is near scenic Lake Arenal, and, most important to the Bergtholds, it's just a 25-minute drive from Hotel Tilawa--home to the country's best concrete skateboard park.

Vegetarians are generally happy with the Eco-Lodge's buffet-style restaurant, but Laurie and Dave should also visit Caballo Negro, a restaurant in the nearby Lucky Bug Bed & Breakfast. The café's gallery features local artists, and the kind German owners serve homemade, organic vegetarian dishes like eggplant Parmesan, pasta with macadamia nut pesto, and overstuffed potatoes.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
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Hotels
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The help of a concierge at an expensive hotel is available even if you're staying at a motel across the street. Go to the concierge with $5 (or whatever the assistance is worth to you) held discreetly but visibly in your hand. Chances are you won't be asked whether you're staying at the hotel. This worked for us once when we were stranded by a blizzard. We tried to rebook our flights on our own, but phones at the airlines were busy for two days straight. The concierge at a fancy hotel a few blocks away got through on his first try and managed to rearrange our flights for us.

— Janet Willer
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Cruises
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

— Glenda McMurray
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Transportation
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My husband and I always travel around Europe by train. When we arrive in any city, we first stop at a ticket window and get all the information we'll need for the next leg of our journey. This gives us plenty of time to find an English-speaking ticket agent who'll print out departure times and platform numbers for us. Before leaving the station, we can note the location of the platform we'll be looking for that morning. One wrong move when you're rushing for a train and you could end up in the wrong city!

— Betty Lynn
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Packing
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When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

— Sandy Sussman
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Family Travel
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If you're on a road trip with young children and you're looking for a place to let them blow off some steam, check out the playgrounds at local elementary schools. They almost always have equipment that your children will love to explore. It will also give everyone in the family a welcome chance to stretch their legs.

— Heather Fitzgerald
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Planning
367273

You can enjoy free airport-area parking by staying the night before departure at an airport hotel or motel that offers park-and-fly rates. The cost of that overnight (which usually entitles you to two weeks of parking) is much less than what you'd otherwise pay at an airport parking lot.

— Mike Saloudek
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Cruises
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If the porters haven't delivered your luggage to your door by the first night of the cruise, check what our experts call the "naughty room." Security will store any bags containing contraband (like candles, alcohol, or coffeemakers) in this centralized location until you come claim it. You'll be able to pick up your bag on the first night, but banned items will not be returned until the end of the trip.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Packing
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Air Travel
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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

— Phil Richard
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Air Travel
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Even if you're not hungry when the flight attendant comes around with the snack service, take it for later. Although peanuts may not look appetizing at 7 a.m., they will look good later if you have nothing better to eat. And it saves you from picking up something at expensive airport shops.

— Fran Rifkin
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Planning
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

— Carol Moran
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Packing
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The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Loyalty Programs
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Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

— Harry Bishop
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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
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I always pack a Petzl Tikka Plus headlamp. It's small, weighs next to nothing, and is perfect for reading in bed at night without disturbing my husband. They're sold online and at outdoor-gear stores for about $33.

— Linda Smejkal
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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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In order to keep track of my bags, I use a small metal bell--the kind dancers from India wear on their ankles. I thread it with fishing line and tie it to my carry-on. If anyone touches my bag after I set it down, the bell chimes. It's not a very obtrusive sound, but it's distinctive enough for me to notice if a thief is trying to get into my things. The same bell can be hung on the doorknob inside your hotel room.

— Jim Hall
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Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
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Dining
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

— Mina Camera
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Family Travel
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It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath.

— Maria Diekema-Zuidema
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Hotels
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
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Shopping
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Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber
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Cruises
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Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Dining
349262

I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

— Charles Locher

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