I wondered why I had been disappointed by the sight of Lijiang's ugly new city and all the tourists. Why had I expected any Chinese city--or anywhere, for that matter--to remain unchanged? I'm happy that Lijiang's old town is being preserved, but that very preservation is what's drawing tourists, who by their presence are changing the city and how it functions. It's a double-edged sword that slices deep into so many conservation efforts. Is increased tourism necessarily a bad thing? Is the commercialism that feeds on tourism bound to ruin Lijiang?

Then I thought back to the photographs on display in the Rock museum. I was particularly struck by one that showed old Lijiang's central square in 1927. It was market day, a mass of baskets and parasols, and it was no less crowded and no less commercial than when I had strolled through the city every day of my visit.

LIJIANG: FORGOTTEN KINGDOM Check out more of Chien-min Chung's beautiful photos of Lijiang • Launch the slide show OCTOBER 2006 ISSUE • Table of Contents • 2006 Extra Mile Awards • There's Something About Sydney • Lijiang: Forgotten Kingdom • Trip Coach: Costa Rica Eco-Trip • 40 Best Vacations

Helpful info when visiting Lijiang

A round-trip Air China flight from Beijing to Lijiang, via Kunming, costs about $600. Flights to Lijiang are also possible from Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, though connections are complicated. Ask for help from a travel agent who specializes in Asia.

A taxi from Lijiang's airport to the old city is about $20. Cars can't enter the old town; try to be dropped off near the waterwheel, the easiest entry point.

Lijiang has plenty of basic guest rooms with shared bathrooms available for about $5 to $10 a night, but several hotels are aiming to please Western tourists with higher standards. I stayed at the Zen Garden Hotel, which was clean and comfortable, with white quilted comforters (36 Wuyi St., 011-86/139-0888-3246, zengardenhotel.com, from $50). The balcony looked over the old city and up at the Wangu pagoda I used as a landmark when wandering. Most important, the Naxi owner, He Yumei, speaks English. At least twice a week she schedules speeches by cultural experts or traditional Chinese harp performances for guests in the courtyard. If the Zen Garden is full, ask He to recommend another place. The Lijiang Old Town Sanhe Hotel, for example, is slightly less charming but caters to Western travelers (4 Jishan Rd., 011-86/888-512-0891, from $40).

There's a fine selection of restaurants lining the canals around the central Sifang square. The Piao Yi Café is across from Lijiang's most popular attraction, the Mu Palace, former residence of Naxi royalty ($4). Visitors can walk through the palace and hike up the five-story Wangu pagoda for a bird's-eye view of the city ($2). The best time to check out the market southeast of the palace is in the morning, when the locals shop. Xuan Ke's Naxi Orchestra starts at 8 P.M. nightly (Dayan Naxi Ancient Music Institute, Dong da St., 011-86/888-512-7971, from $13).

Packaged excursions leaving from Lijiang often consist of some sightseeing and a lot of shuttling in and out of gift shops. Instead, rent a bike (ask at your hotel) and pedal 40 minutes to inspect the Ming dynasty murals at the village of Baisha, capital of the Naxi kingdom before Lijiang took over. You can push further on to the temples in Yuhu, also home to the Joseph Rock Museum ($1). Street names are rare: To reach the museum, walk from Yuhu's dirt parking lot up the cobblestone path for a few hundred yards, and turn when you come to the hand-painted sign on your left.