Minus: Some of the renovations appear rushed: Several rooms are sloppily painted.

Details: Bonpland 1665, 011-54/11- 4771-4697, kristahotel.com.ar, from $90, including breakfast.

Krista Hotel (Courtesy Krista Hotel) [enlarge photo] OCTOBER 2006 ISSUE • Table of Contents • 2006 Extra Mile Awards • There's Something About Sydney • Lijiang: Forgotten Kingdom • Trip Coach: Costa Rica Eco-Trip • 40 Best Vacations

LA OTRA ORILLA

'Hood: Palermo Viejo, the most stately section of Palermo, full of century-old homes. It's where Jorge Luis Borges, Argentina's most celebrated writer, lived.

First impression: Opened in June by mother-daughter duo Cecilia Ramos Mejía and Agustina Montoreano, La Otra Orilla has a French country vibe. Floral curtains, vintage area rugs, and mismatched antiques give it a casual, comfortable feel.

The rooms: Seven guest rooms are painted in vibrant colors like tomato red and forest green. Two (Azul and Blanca) share a bathroom; all but Blanca are equipped with A/C (it has a ceiling fan). The Bamboo Room features sliding glass doors that open onto a garden that blooms with bougainvillea, jasmine, and hyacinth.

Plus: When the weather is nice, breakfast is served alfresco, on a terra-cotta-colored patio. Honeymooners can have breakfast in bed at no additional cost.

Minus: Reservation confirmations must be made by phone or e-mail 72 hours prior to arrival. No credit cards: Only cash is accepted (upon checkout).

Details: Julián Alvarez 1779, 011-54/11-4867-4070, otraorilla.com.ar, from $30, including breakfast.

248 FINISTERRA

'Hood: Las Cañitas, between Palermo and Belgrano. The up-and-coming area is home to the polo grounds and some hot restaurants.

First impression: The look is urban gaucho, with butter-soft leather, dark wood, and natural cottons. Pablo Badler transformed what was his grandmother's house into an elegant hotel, with the help of his mother and sister. They launched 248 Finisterra in May, after more than a year of construction (and it still smells of fresh paint).