TRIP COACH

Switzerland

A couple wants to hike in the Swiss Alps by day--and crack open a bottle of wine with fresh, delicious food each night.

Michael and Tammy, in their backyard in Pennsylvania (Yoko Inoue)

Years ago, Michael Fine, of Lake Ariel, Pa., received a brochure in the mail with photos of Switzerland's Bernese Alps. "I saw a blue sky, snow-covered mountains, and a meadow with the greenest grass," says Michael. "I thought, This place seems like it's pretty close to paradise. I want to walk there."

Michael and his wife, Tamra (Tammy), are in what she calls their "fit 50s" and in recent years have gone dogsledding in Alaska and parasailing in Fiji. They both work in the classical music field--he's a Grammy-winning producer--and Michael has been to Lucerne and Zürich many times on business. But this autumn, they're finally going to explore Switzerland's mountains. "We want to base ourselves in one place and become locals for a week," says Tammy.

The Fines are looking for beautiful scenery on hikes and a relaxing meal and bottle of wine at the end of each day. "For us, it's the smell of the air, the natural sounds, the light," says Michael. "We much prefer the sound of distant cowbells to that of traffic or nightclubs," adds Tammy.

The Jungfrau region of the Bernese Alps, renowned for its jagged peaks, green valleys, and wintertime ski slopes, offers everything the Fines seek. After we discuss mountain villages in the area with the Fines, they narrow the choice to Gimmelwald, Mürren, and Wengen. All three feature car-free streets, ample hiking trails, and epic views. "Michael was pushing for Gimmelwald," says Tammy. "But with only one hotel, a hostel, a couple guesthouses, and a single restaurant, I was afraid it might not be the best fit."

They eventually choose Mürren because it's a bit smaller than Wengen and yet still has plenty of options for lodging and food. "I looked on Google Earth and saw that Mürren was basically hanging on a mountain cliff," says Michael. "It seems relatively inaccessible, small, and tranquil."

Wondering what to pack for their visit in late September, Tammy asks, "What should we expect weather-wise?" Mürren is at an altitude of 5,413 feet, and while days are often sunny and temperatures sometimes stretch into the low 70s in early fall, warm clothes are essential. Snow is not uncommon even in September.

The Fines are tacking on the week in Switzerland after a business trip to the Netherlands. They'll fly from Amsterdam to Basel, where they'll board a train to Lauterbrunnen, take a bus to the town of Stechelberg, and finally ride an aerial tram to Mürren.

"There's a bewildering array of rail passes to choose from," says Tammy. "Which will be the best for us?" The three-day Flexi Saver Pass ($150 each, raileurope.com) is good for travel on public trains, buses, trams, and boats. The pass will cover their journeys to and from the airport, as well as a day trip to Interlaken or some other destination. It also gives free admission to most Swiss museums and a 50 percent discount on private mountain trams and railways--which will come in handy, since the mountain trams that lead to Mürren and to many outstanding hiking trails are privately owned.

Michael asks if there's someplace secure to store his bulky suitcase during the Mürren portion of the trip. Interlaken Ost, a train hub on the way to Mürren, has lockers, but they require a coin feed every 24 hours. Instead, he should check his bag with the station's luggage attendant, for about $7 per day.

"We don't need luxury lodging, but do want to be comfortable," says Tammy. "A cute chalet guesthouse is fine, and a room with a balcony and a view is wonderful." Because the Fines also like the idea of having a kitchen, they book an apartment suite at the Chalet Fontana. Denise Fussell, an expat from England, manages the lodge and is an excellent source of advice on hiking routes.

"To us, food that's fresh and regional is of more interest than haute cuisine or Michelin stars," says Tammy. A grocery store in Mürren sells the basics, and the Fines can also take a 45-minute stroll to a neighboring village, Winteregg, where the Staubbach Alpine Dairy turns milk into cheese, yogurt, and butter, available for purchase. There's no need for a map or addresses in any of these villages--with only a few houses and businesses and many friendly people who speak English, everything is easy to find.

Since the Fontana is only available for the Fines' first three nights, they book the remainder of their week at the family-run Hotel Alpina. Their second-floor room costs $129 a night and has a balcony overlooking the mountains.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Hotels
430319

I was heading to the hotel ice machine when I noticed that our ice bucket was looking very tired and missing its disposable plastic liner. My solution: the shower cap that we never use anyway. In fact, it actually worked better than the liner bag because the elastic band held it in place around the top of the bucket.

— Susan Swickard
Tagged
Planning
370264

Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
Tagged
Planning
376250

If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
Tagged
Car Rentals
338252

With two of our last three car rentals, the local branch wanted documentation beyond the standard insurance card issued by our insurance company. In San Juan, we were delayed a half hour while the agent made phone calls to verify that our liability insurance was good in Puerto Rico. In Miami, if we hadn't provided proof that our insurance covered rental cars, we would've been charged a daily collision insurance fee. Fortunately, we knew ahead of time and took a copy of the pertinent section of our policy. Our credit card included car rental insurance, but proof of that coverage was also required.

— Carole Goodyear
Tagged
Hotels
411353

Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

— Gail Moriarty
Tagged
Air Travel
372277

Finding healthy breakfast alternatives at an airport can prove difficult. I always travel with an insulated travel mug. Before leaving home I fill it with a high-protein cereal and then request low-fat milk on the flight.

— Randy Hartselle
Tagged
Transportation
386248

Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
Tagged
Dining
365258

In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
Tagged
Air Travel
379276

When you change your clocks back or forward, be sure to check the expiration date on all your frequent-flier miles. This way they're checked twice a year. We overlooked one of the many accounts in our household and lost a free ticket when the miles expired.

— Lynda Self
Tagged
Family Travel
371238

If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
Tagged
Cruises
387315

We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
Tagged
Solo Travel
554600

In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
Tagged
Technology
552581

Making international calls back to the States can be confusing if you're using a calling card and you're dialing a number by its catchphrase, such as CALL ATT. Obviously, many countries don't have the English alphabet on the telephone keypad. My solution? I create my own small keypads on a computer, print them out, and attach them inside my wallet, to my passport, and to my calling cards.

— Peter Morris
Tagged
Planning
388275

When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

— Joyce Morden
Tagged
Safety
442302

A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
Tagged
Packing
348278

I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
Tagged
Planning
366243

Know your PINs! My husband and I left home with very little cash on us, and instead of stopping to get money at the airport, my husband--ever the procrastinator--decided to wait until we got to Cancún to use his ATM card. Guess what? It didn't work in any of the machines. And although he had several credit cards for cash advances, he didn't know the PINs off the top of his head. We charged everything we could during our stay, but most of the markets don't take credit cards. Needless to say, I didn't come home with a lot of souvenirs.

— CaSandra Knight
Tagged
Packing
365256

Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
Tagged
Transportation
363245

When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
Tagged
Transportation
368272

Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
Tagged
Planning
529598

While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan
Tagged
Shopping
354275

Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

— Stacy Shaw
Tagged
Air Travel
493613

When looking for the lowest airfare, I've found that in some cases the best rates pop up when searching for one traveler instead of two. Recently, I wanted to buy one-way tickets from New York to Orlando for two people and came up with $87 per person. But when I selected one traveler, the fare dropped to $72.

— Yoshi Matsuda
Tagged
Photography
379280

I enjoy off-peak travel best--rates are cheaper, lines are shorter--but the weather can be iffy. To combat Mother Nature's unpredictability, I always pack a roll or two of black-and-white film. While dreary-day color photos bring only consoling remarks from friends, black-and-white film tends to lend a mystique to gray landscapes and creates some very dramatic Ansel Adams--esque shots.

— Ed Danyo
Tagged
Packing
389283

Save the flip-flops you're given at the nail salon after a pedicure. They make great shower shoes. They're lightweight and dry quickly, and you can throw them away at the end of your trip.

— Carmen Shirkey
Tagged
Car Rentals
366256

We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

— Marcia Meyer
Tagged
Packing
419284

My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
Tagged
Planning
376291

Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
Tagged
Hotels
450328

Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
Tagged
Packing
380241

I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES