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Buenos Aires . . . Then What?
  |   November 2006 issue

Our last stop is a late lunch at Hostería del Palomar, which has since moved a block away and changed its name to Viejo Roble. María, our guide at the Draghi museum, had mentioned that it's popular; the half-hour wait for a table proves her right. Locals sit outdoors in front of piles of ribs, chorizo, and whatever else the grill-master happens to be cooking. I ask for a vino con soda--the house red mixed with ice and carbonated water from a classic soda siphon. It's the Argentine way.

Getting there: By bus or taxi   
Remises Esperanza, a remis (car service), charges about $50 each way for the 90-minute ride from Buenos Aires to San Antonio de Areco (011-54/11-4829-1551). The Nueva Chevallier bus company has service from Retiro Station in B.A. to San Antonio for $5 each way; the trip takes two hours (011-54/11-4016-7000, nuevachevallier.com.ar). A taxi from San Antonio to La Bamba costs $6.50 each way.


San Antonio de Areco: Gauchos Juan Fortina (left) and Victor Eduardo Tatta, who goes by the name Coco (Roberto Westbrook)

Lodging

  • Estancia La Bamba 011-54/2326-456-293, la-bamba.com.ar, from $240 all-inclusive
  • Hostal de Areco 011-54/2326-456-118, hostaldeareco.com.ar, from $23
  • Food 

  • La Esquina de Merti Arellano 147, 011-54/2326-456-705, entrées from $9
  • Viejo Roble Bolívar 4, 011-54/2325-156-886, lunch from $10
  • Activities

  • Estancia La Bamba (info above) día de campo from $60
  • Museo Draghi Lavalle 387, 011-54/2326-454-219, $1.65
  • Patricio Draghi Arellano 45, 011-54/2326-452-961
  • Parque Criollo y Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes Camino Ricardo Güiraldes, 011-54/2326-455-839, $1
  • Nightlife

  • Puesto La Lechuza Segundo Sombra 497, 011-54/2326-454-542, wine $1.30

  • Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
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