Bom and Wasa are back at the guesthouse when we return. They're lounging on the patio with Vieng, the friendly young owner of Villa Suan Maak, eating Pringles and fresh mangoes. They invite us to join them, and, over a couple of beers, Bom asks for some American slang that he can incorporate into his repertoire. Somehow, nobody has told him about the ultimate superlative. "Bom," we tell him, "you're the best. You're the bomb!"

Proving that the world is indeed a very small place, at the Luang Prabang airport I run into an old friend from work. We're both momentarily struck dumb by the absurdity of meeting up half a world away. When she notices Ma, who's wearing a goofy brown leather baseball cap--turned sideways--I introduce them and explain that Ma and I have been on a group trip together. My friend looks at me, wide-eyed. "Was it like being on a cruise ship?" she asks.

LAOS: A TOUR THAT EVEN LONERS CAN LOVE See more of Jun Takagi's beautiful photographs of Laos • Launch the slide show NOVEMBER 2006 ISSUE • Table of Contents • Laos: A Tour That Even Loners Can Love • Buenos Aires . . . Then What? • Road Trip: Joshua Tree • Trip Coach: Switzerland • 40 Best Vacations

I gush about Bom and our delightful guesthouses, our meal in the woods, and our cozy bunks in the train. My friend and her husband, meanwhile, stayed at the most luxurious resort in town. I love the numbing comfort of a great hotel as much as the next person, but why travel to an exotic destination only to remove yourself from the everyday life of the country? I can honestly say that I wouldn't trade my trip for hers.

How an Intrepid tour works

Started in 1989 by two Australian backpackers, Intrepid Travel originally focused on Asia but now runs some 300 trips to more than 50 destinations all over the globe. The most common style of lodging is the family-run guesthouse. On certain tours, guests camp in tents. Tours change from time to time: Beyond the Mekong, featured in this story, is no longer offered, though several Intrepid trips include visits to Laos. A few things are constant: Singles don't have to pay a supplement (they're paired up with same-sex roommates instead); meals generally cost extra; and tours require a small local cash payment that guides use for group taxis, boats, and excursions (866/847-8192, intrepidtravel.com).

Other independent tour operators

Expect to find small groups, plenty of free time to explore on your own, and guides who steer participants to authentic experiences and restaurants where the locals actually eat.

Djoser: A Dutch company with nearly 80 itineraries, such as safaris in Kenya and Tanzania, dogsled trips in Finland, and custom-designed cultural tours of Mexico. 877/356-7376, djoserusa.com.

G.A.P Adventures: An active-tour operation based in Canada, with trips all over the world focused on kayaking, trekking, cycling, sailing, nature, or culture and history. 800/708-7761, gapadventures.com.

Adventure Center: A specialty agency based in California that books hundreds of small-group adventure tours run by a variety of companies, including Intrepid Travel and Exodus, a U.K.-based outfitter that specializes in hiking tours. 800/228-8747, adventurecenter.com.