BudgetTravel

"A coworker who travels to India a lot mentioned catching a Kathakali show," says Max. In the traditional dance-dramas, elaborately masked performers act out choreographed epics. The See India Foundation includes an English-language synopsis with its performance, and patrons can come 45 minutes before showtime to watch the actors put on their makeup and costumes.

To tour the backwaters, many visitors drive south of Kochi to Alappuzha (Alleppey) and board a double-decker tourist boat. Max and Courtney are interested in getting exercise and going off the beaten path, however, so we urge them to take a half-day guided canoe trip with the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC), right in Kochi. As for a cute, affordable place to stay in Kochi, we recommend a boutique hotel in the Fort Cochin district: Fort Heritage, a 17th-century Dutch mansion.

Max and courtney Kieba, near their home in Chicago (Anna Knott) DECEMBER 2006/JANUARY 2007 ISSUE • Table of Contents • Ambergris Cay, Belize: Beach Bum Central • Renting an Apartment in Venice • 25 Reasons We Love San Antonio • 10 Best Movie Locations • Road Trip: Florida Keys • 40 Best Vacations

"We both love to cook, so we're excited for Indian cuisine," says Courtney. In Delhi, they'll probably eat plenty of Mughlai food, Muslim-style cooking that's heavy on spicy kebabs and creamy sauces. Kerala's cuisine centers on fish and coconut-infused dishes. The Fort House, an open-air restaurant in Fort Cochin, serves fantastic fried prawns, braised seer fish, fish baked in banana leaves, and other entrées that cost about $4 each. The excellent History Restaurant has a menu that covers the various ethnicities (Portuguese, Arabic, Jewish) that influenced Kochi during its days as a key trading port. For a homey experience, Nimmy Paul hosts cooking classes and meals with her family. "We really like this idea," says Courtney. "Mingling with fellow travelers should be fun, too."

In Morocco, the Kiebas bought a Berber rug, a small iron vase, and spices from the markets. "Courtney is the bigger shopper of the two of us, but we do like to come home with something unique," says Max. Tons of shops selling crafts line the old Jewish district. Crafters Antique, where local hoteliers buy their antiques, offers everything from wood carvings to tiles and brass jewelry boxes.

We warn the Kiebas that haggling is generally the norm in India. "We were a little uneasy at first haggling in Morocco, but we eventually got the hang of it," says Courtney. "At the same time, we also enjoy going to the flat-rate-price shops, at least for the sake of comparison." With that in mind, we steer them to the government-run Kairali for curios and handicrafts at decent fixed prices.

As if the Kiebas' itinerary weren't full enough, we offer up a final option before they fly back to Delhi for $210 on low-fare carrier Air Sahara. The Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary--home to some 40 tigers and 800 elephants--is six hours from Kochi. They could hire a private car for $100 a day or book the Periyar Tiger Trail package--transportation, guides, meals, and camping--from $545 for both of them via Tour India, the same company that reserves rooms at Green Magic resort.

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