Dubai: Just Add Money

In 15 years, Dubai has gone from a backwater refueling stop to a playpen for the rich, thanks to one of the grandest building schemes that the modern world has ever seen. But is there any reason for normal people to visit?

At Ski Dubai, two hours of indoor skiing, including the clothing and gear, costs only $38 (Sue Parkhill)

On my first morning in Dubai, I sat beside a stone fireplace, sipping hot chocolate and watching a video loop of a roaring fire. The fireplace was inside the St. Moritz, a re-creation of an alpine ski lodge, which is located beside a ski slope, which is located inside the Mall of the Emirates, one of the biggest malls in the world.

At lunch, I sat on the sandstone terrace of an Italian restaurant, Toscana, which was also located inside a mall, the Madinat Jumeirah, a re-creation of an Arab souk. I'd moved from hot chocolate to Amarone della Valpolicella, from ski boots to flip-flops. I ordered wild-mushroom risotto and watched water taxis ferry passengers along the narrow waterway between Tommy Bahama, Caviar Classic, and Cinnabon.

That evening, I sat on a bench in Heritage Village, which is not a mall but a re-creation of a traditional village in the United Arab Emirates. I watched a man in a flowing white head scarf and a woman in an abaya as they sat on a blanket in a very finite, very imported piece of desert--more like a large sandbox--pouring coffee from a samovar-like pot. I assumed they were picnicking until they offered me a cup, and I realized this was just one more Heritage Village demonstration. "Traditional Arabic coffee," the man said proudly.

Lying in bed that night, I wondered if I had been drafted into an elaborate game of make-believe. In order to grow a city from a fishing village to a convenient place to refuel a plane to the world's fastest-growing tourist destination--it now draws more than six million visitors a year--the architects of the new Dubai had to rely more than usual on the power of fantasy.

At some point in the early 1990s, Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum determined that tourism was to be the cornerstone of Dubai's economy. He knew that one day the emirate's modest oil reserve was going to run dry. But Dubai didn't have the World Heritage sites, cultural attractions, or natural wonders to lure tourists. (There's an undeniable, austere beauty to the desert dunes, but that was hardly enough to build a good case for visiting, especially with competitors like the Sahara.) And so: What Mother Nature and the forces of history did not bequeath to Dubai, Dubai would have to create for itself.

Ever since, Dubai has been growing at a breakneck pace, every new project an attempt to outdo the last one. I imagine the sheikh assembling a sort of tourism think tank. I imagine his advisors sitting around and trying to figure out what tourists want, and coming up with a list: Malls! Waterslides! Spas! Theme parks! Gondolas! Sushi! River cruises like the Bateaux Mouches!

Dubai has all of these and more. It wants to entertain you; it wants to be all things to all people. Just as Vegas crams the Eiffel Tower, the Egyptian pyramids, and the Roman Colosseum under one metaphorical roof, Dubai offers curious Westerners world-class chefs, family entertainment, and, for those who are so inclined, a thriving sex-tourism industry. It has also drawn comparison to Ibiza for its throbbing club scene and to Singapore and Hong Kong for its overnight evolution into a modern international trading center.

And yet, despite visitors' befuddled attempts to find an analogue for Dubai, it is, at base, an utterly Middle Eastern city, albeit an improbably tolerant one. Dubai gathers together all the lavish sights and sounds and tastes of Arabia and makes them safe and accessible for Westerners--many of whom aren't entirely comfortable traveling just anywhere in the Middle East these days. In Dubai, lovers of the exotic can indulge their Thousand and One Nights fantasies. At the One & Only Royal Mirage Hotel, they can recline on the silk pillows of a daybed and sip a Kir Royale in the Rooftop Bar, or lie naked and nibble fresh dates inside the hotel's spa. They can shop for Moroccan lanterns at Madinat Jumeirah, for sandalwood incense in the Perfume Souk on Sikkat al Khail Street, and for chunky 24-karat-gold Cleopatra chokers in the nearby Gold Souk. They can glide down Dubai Creek on a dhow at sunset, booked with Danat Dubai Cruises, the thick air vibrating with the voices of a dozen muezzins calling worshippers to prayer.

There are two ways to experience Dubai: first class and economy. As a first-class traveler, you will be indulged beyond your wildest dreams. At the Six Senses Spa, you can have your face exfoliated with crushed diamonds and emeralds. You can rent an $800 VIP pod at Trilogy nightclub, where you and seven of your closest friends will be suspended above the dance floor and plied with drinks by a gorgeous, impeccably coiffed waitress who knows full well that you laid out some serious cash to feel special. You can stay at the mainsail-shaped Burj Al Arab--dubbed the "world's first seven-star hotel" by a travel writer who had clearly been well cared for--where a white-gloved butler will hang up your clothes and plan your entire itinerary while you soak in an Hermès-scented bubble bath.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

— William Boyle
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As a flight attendant, I'm always amazed by the stuff that people leave behind. Most of it never gets back to its rightful owner because there's no way of knowing who the owner is. To avoid misplacing your property, put things back into your carry-on after using them--never on the floor or in the seat-back pocket. Label important items like books or games with return address labels so they can be sent back to you if found.

— Doug Hummell
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When I'm on the road, I often have to use the hotel iron before heading out to business meetings. But getting water into the iron can be a hassle--most irons won't fit under the sink faucet, and using a glass to pour water into the tiny hole is nearly impossible without spilling everywhere. There's an easy solution: Use the carafe from the coffee maker. Just be sure the carafe is clean, or you could end up with coffee stains on your clothes.

— Paul Schnebelen
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Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
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Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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The couple of hangers provided on cruise ships aren't enough for weeklong trips. So I save wire hangers from the dry cleaner and slip a few into our suitcases while packing. I then leave them behind for the next passenger.

— Wendy Maloney
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Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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Loyalty Programs
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If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

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Check out worldclimate.com to find monthly average temperatures and rainfall for thousands of cities worldwide. You can avoid countries during their rainy seasons, and the information is useful for figuring out what to pack.

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Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

— Joan Chyun
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Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

— Fran Plewak
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Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

— Abbie-Stuart Fox
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When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

— Brian Berg
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Avoid spills in your Dopp kit. Cut up plastic grocery bags into little squares and place them under the tops of toiletries to prevent leaks. Discard the squares upon arrival, but bring extras for the trip back.

— Roland Zuniga
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If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

— Doreen Stelton
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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

— Ed Clancy
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My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart

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