Secret Hotels of the Riviera Maya

South of Cancun, we found 8 hideaways--from simple casitas on the beach to a villa once owned by a drug kingpin--to suit every mood.

CESiaK, inside the Sian Ka'an Biosphere

(John Kernick)

XCALAK

Hotel Tierra Maya
"We weren't looking to move, but I began dreaming about this place. One night, I asked my husband, 'Honey, could you live the rest of your life in the Caribbean?' He replied, 'Is a four-pound robin fat?' " And that, roughly speaking, is how Kim and David Calkins began their journey from 20 years of innkeeping in Texas to running the Hotel Tierra Maya outside Xcalak (pronounced shka-lak) at the southern tip of Costa Maya. A six-hour drive from Cancun, Xcalak has remained virtually untouched by the booming development further north. Along the town's main drag, there's a restaurant and a small grocery store with a pay phone, but no banks or ATMs. Kim and David bought their place two years ago, inheriting a loyal group of guests who return year after year for the excellent fly-fishing, diving, and snorkeling in the area. The Calkins weren't about to change a winning formula. They made some improvements (doubling the restaurant to 40 seats to accommodate visitors from nearby resorts, replacing all the mattresses, etc.), but otherwise, the six rooms are the same, simply done with sunny yellow walls, terra-cotta-tile floors, ceiling fans, and balconies that overlook the Caribbean. The Calkins loan out bikes and kayaks at no charge, sell snorkel gear, and will happily arrange guided fishing trips. (A four-hour excursion costs $160 for two and includes a boat, guide, bait, tackle, and refreshments.) But Tierra Maya is also ideally situated for anyone who just wants to lie low. It's stocked with a supply of well-worn paperbacks and old copies of National Geographic, which guests can thumb through while loung-ing on chairs scattered around the lawn or on the thin band of beach just beyond the grass. As Kim says, "A lot of people don't want to be in the corridor," meaning the popular and sometimes crowded stretch from Cancun to Tulum. "Even when we're full, it's real quiet here." 800/216-1902, tierramaya.net, from $80, includes breakfast.

MAHAHUAL

Balamku Inn on the Beach
The rough-hewn fishing village of Mahahual has a split personality: Beach bars buzz with activity when a cruise ship is docked in the small port, but otherwise, its sandy streets are quiet and tourist-free. While kayaking the short distance from Balamku to a nearby reef for an afternoon of snorkeling, consider the vagaries of life: You wouldn't be here now if, in 2000, a road-tripping Canadian couple hadn't missed the exit for Punta Allen. That's how Alan Knight and Carol Tumber ended up in Mahahual for the night. (Alan thought it might be pronounced "ma-ha-ha.") The next morning, they met someone with beachfront land for sale and made an offer on the spot, despite the fact that they'd only been dating for about a year. Balamku opened in 2003, and Carol calls it "a small, totally ecological retreat," pointing out that even the soaps and shampoos are biodegradable. There are two individual whitewashed palapas and a trio of two-story palapas (with a suite on each floor) for a total of eight rooms. They're all decorated with Mexican artwork--paintings, sculptures, and masks--and most have wireless Internet access. A breakfast of fruit, eggs, pancakes, and Chiapas coffee is served in the bright dining room. The hotel doesn't do dinners, but two restaurants highly recommended by Alan and Carol are less than a five-minute walk away. 011-52/1-983-839-5332, balamku.com, from $75, includes breakfast.

SIAN KA'AN BIOSPHERE

CESiaK
Driving down a dirt road in the 1.3-million-acre nature reserve called Sian Ka'an, visitors might not understand why the park has a Mayan name that means "where the sky is born." The thickly wooded biosphere is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to over 300 bird species, 100 types of mammals, and nearly two dozen archaeological sites. Among sea grape plants, geiger trees, and coconut palms, CESiaK (short for Centro Ecológico de Sian Ka'an) is on the high point of a narrow strip of land. After guests climb to the tiny crow's-nest level of the main building and look out over the vast expanse of Caribbean to the east, the Campechen Lagoon to the west, and the biosphere to the south, with a great swath of sky overhead, the name Sian Ka'an finally makes sense. Rooms at CESiaK are rustic--really no more than large tents, with screened windows, set on raised wooden platforms. Each has a porch (hammock included) with views of either the sea or the lagoon. The rooms aren't wired for electricity, but they are equipped with candles and battery-powered hurricane lamps. Shared bathrooms are next to the main building, where Mexican meals are served in a cheerful dining room. But the most comfortable spot is the main building's terrace, where guests can look out over the beach and admire the stealth-fighter cormorants and the more lumbering, cargo-plane pelicans on their takeoffs and landings. Though that's entertainment enough for many, other daytime activities can be arranged through the hotel--everything from fly-fishing in the reserve's saltwater lagoons to kayaking and bird-watching tours. 011-52/984-871-2499, cesiak.org, from $70.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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Pack a couple of mountaineering carabiners. Clip one through the handle or strap of your bag and secure it to something solid wherever you may be (to a bench in the park or in a train station, to the railing of an overhead compartment on a bus, etc.).The carabiner adds a bit of security, especially if you're snoozing.

— R. Bryan Simon
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Hotels
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Air Travel
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
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Cruises
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We like to buy shipboard souvenirs, so we try to choose a ship that's completing its run of an area--that's when merchandise is generally put on sale. Last year, for example, on a sailing in South America, all of the T-shirts, glassware, and rain jackets were 75 percent off.

— Carol Callahan
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373242

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Planning
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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Technology
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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Car Rentals
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When booking a rental car online, click on "special offers" or "hot deals" to find the company's current promotional codes. Price your reservation using each code. Also, keep in mind that rates fluctuate according to seasons and slow periods. I managed to save more than $170 on a ten-day rental in Orlando, Fla.,by changing my reservation dates twice and by using different codes.

— Jeff Thomsen
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If you wait to buy a discount-granting Entertainment Book until around six months before it expires (expiration is usually scheduled for November), you can often buy a $20 to $47 book for as little as $10, plus $5 shipping. Online access to the coupons is sold for $7 a month. These are great for vacations out of town.

— Kitty Bennett
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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
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377251

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Road Trips
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle
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Family Travel
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Put toys within kids' reach on road trips. Hang a shoe organizer on the back of the passenger seat so children can keep stuffed animals, books, and games organized in the pockets. Having everything close at hand may help prevent meltdowns along the way.

— Jennifer Casasanto
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We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

— Christa Babel
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Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney
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Traveling to non-English-speaking countries can be daunting for people with food allergies. Find someone fluent in the local language to write out what you are allergic to, the seriousness of the allergy (we had a friend include the phrase "this could kill me"), and what to do if you fall ill.

— M. Thompson and K.A. Fares Bannon
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When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

— Gina Beyer
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Cruise lines offer packaged side trips at their ports of call. If you go online and look for these expeditions ahead of time, you can book directly with the tour companies and save money.

— Cindy Rucker
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We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Photography
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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
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Shopping
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Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

— Stacy Shaw

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