DREAM TRIPS: 2007 EDITION

Mardi Gras: Still America's Best Party

In today's New Orleans, reveling with abandon is not only good for the soul, it's good for the city.

In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, the fact that Mardi Gras was celebrated at all last year came as a surprise to many people--but not to spirited, defiant New Orleanians. Throughout history, the city has endured terrible hardships, including plagues and war. Not even one of America's worst natural disasters could spoil the fun.

Watching the Parades
Around 60 parades are held during Carnival season, each one hosted by a private organization, or "krewe." Most parades take place in the final 10 days leading up to Fat Tuesday, "Mardi Gras" in French. The big day always falls in late February or early March, on the eve of Lent. Minor parade schedule changes are common; go to mardigras.com for the latest info.

Warning: Do not flash body parts in the hopes of encouraging float riders to throw beads, stuffed animals, or other treats. Police zealously crack down on risqué behavior along parade routes. (The exception is the French Quarter. While flashing is still illegal there, it rarely draws even a verbal warning from cops.) A poster saying your hometown LOVES NOLA should do the trick in getting the attention of the folks throwing beads.

There are a few must-see parades. Endymion is a large parade with the most "throws," as well as Mardi Gras's longest float, the blocks-long Captain Eddie's S.S. Endymion (Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 4:30 P.M.). At Bacchus, a major celebrity serves as monarch--this year, it was James "Tony Soprano" Gandolfini (Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 5:15 P.M.). Orpheus is a music-based parade founded by Harry Connick Jr. One of the signature floats is Leviathan, a smoke-breathing dragon lit with fiber optics (Monday before Fat Tuesday, 5:45 P.M.). The most prized of all throws are the painted coconuts at Zulu, a century-old African-American celebration that began as a parody of elite white krewes (Fat Tuesday, 8 A.M.). Named for the King of Carnival, Rex includes the reading of the official Carnival proclamation and floats like Boeuf Gras, a huge white bull surrounded by chefs (Fat Tuesday, 10 A.M.).

There are also smaller parades worth seeking out. Muses is an all-female affair at which participants toss pumps and teddy bear beads (Thursday before Fat Tuesday, 7:30 P.M.). At Barkus, thousands of dogs march in themed costumes, preceded and followed by a free family-oriented party in Louis Armstrong Park (second Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 2 P.M.). Krewe du Vieux is an over-the-top spectacle with satirical, often raunchy floats; genitalia and sex are common themes (third Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 7 P.M.).

Party Guide
It's legal to stroll the streets of New Orleans while drinking alcohol, and bars often have sidewalk-service windows. Glass containers aren't allowed outside, however; if you want to leave a bar with your drink, request a plastic "go-cup." The Hurricane, New Orleans's signature drink, packs a wallop with four shots of high-octane rum. Bars charge about $6, though prices go as high as $11 for a 32-ounce concoction in a souvenir jug. Side-street grocery and convenience stores sell liquor, beer, and other beverages. Some Mardi Gras vets carry small coolers or jugs as they wander the Quarter.

Many bars have balconies over Bourbon Street. Expect to pay $5 to $20 to perch on one, with time limits at the lower prices.

G-Rated Fun?
Families can--and do--attend Mardi Gras. One of the parade-watching areas where kids are plentiful and bawdy behavior is frowned upon is a wide grassy area on St. Charles Avenue, under oak trees in the upper Garden District. Views of the night parades, with their lighted floats, are beautifully framed by the huge arching trees.

Where to Stay
Hotels on or near Canal Street are within easy reach of popular parade routes and the French Quarter. Try the Doubletree Hotel New Orleans (300 Canal, 504/581-1300, from $259) or, for a room on a quiet courtyard, the Dauphine Orleans (415 Dauphine, 504/586-1800, from $259). Book at least three months in advance, earlier if you hope to snag a balcony.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

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Pack a power strip and extension cord for your next cruise. Many cruise-ship cabins have only one out- let, but you'll definitely need more if you want to power up your laptop, iPod, cell phone, electric razor, hairdryer, or any other gadgets you bring on board.

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Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

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— Lori Fields
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When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

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On a Northwest flight from Wichita to Cleveland, a piece of my luggage was delivered more than a day after I arrived. In the meantime, I had to buy some replacement items. Save your receipts! I turned in the receipts when I checked in for the return flight, and the ticket agent issued me a $50 check.(Northwest allows up to $50 in interim expenses for the first 24 hours, and $25 for each day afterward, with a maximum reimbursement of $150.)

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If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

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When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

— Gina Beyer
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Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
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Before booking your next ski trip or reserving a table for dinner, find out what your credit card company has to offer. American Express sometimes has discounts on lift tickets; MasterCard has offered buy-one-get-one-free at local restaurants; and Discover Card has access to deals to Universal Studios. Check out americanexpress.com/offerzone, mastercard.com (be sure to click on Promotions), and discovercard.com.

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Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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I carry bilingual takeout menus when traveling to countries like China, Korea, and Vietnam. When I'm at a restaurant with no menu (or one that I can't read), I give mine to the waiter so he can point to dishes they can prepare. I've learned to pack a few extra menus, as the restaurants often like to keep a copy.

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It's unnecessary to make a packing list for each trip. Instead, draw up a master list with everything you might need on any given trip--from ski goggles to snorkels, slippers to saline solution. Save it on your computer. Before you start packing, cross out anything you don't need for that particular trip.

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When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

— Brian Berg
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

— Karen Griffith-Hedberg
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If the porters haven't delivered your luggage to your door by the first night of the cruise, check what our experts call the "naughty room." Security will store any bags containing contraband (like candles, alcohol, or coffeemakers) in this centralized location until you come claim it. You'll be able to pick up your bag on the first night, but banned items will not be returned until the end of the trip.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

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While traveling abroad, I've frequently encountered some appallingly bad (and often very funny) English translations of menus. In those cases, I simply offered to clean up the translations in exchange for a meal. This has worked quite a few times.

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On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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During the hot months of summer, I plan to travel with a very small spray bottle. I'll fill it with water and use it as a mister to keep cool. I got this idea when we stayed at the Noga Hilton in Cannes. On the dresser was a pink aerosol can full of Evian water. I took it with us sightseeing and, wow, it was so refreshing to spritz water on our faces.

— Joy Shebroe
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When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

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Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

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Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

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Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

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If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

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