DREAM TRIPS: 2007 EDITION

Overwater Bungalows: Stay Literally on the Ocean

For such a romantic setting, with water lapping underfoot, you can find a way to make it happen.

French Polynesia remains the undisputed capital of overwater escapes, where $700 is the typical starting price for a hut poised on stilts in a tranquil, aquamarine lagoon. But resorts exist that are both far more affordable than Bora Bora and still within belly-flopping distance of the water.

Bermuda
Opened in April 2005 on Bermuda's west side, 50 minutes from the airport, the 18-acre 9 Beaches resort gives the overwater bungalow concept something of a Cape Cod twist. The cabanas are constructed from a breathable canvas fabric stretched over an aluminum frame, for an appearance that's more seaside cottage than South Seas thatched-roof cabin. The design allows cool Atlantic breezes to circulate (though bungalows also have air-conditioning). Of the resort's 84 units, 17 stand on wooden piers over the water; see-through floor panels reveal sea life beneath. 866/841-9009, 9beaches.com, overwater bungalow $340 in spring and winter.

French Polynesia
South Pacific bargains, relatively speaking, come in the form of a pair of Pearl Resorts, in popular Moorea (within easy reach of Tahiti by ferry or plane) and less visited Raiatea, which is the second-biggest island in all of French Polynesia after Tahiti (a $297, 40-minute flight from Papeete). Overwater bungalows at the Raiatea Hawaikik Nui Hotel have high ceilings and oversize verandas; at Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa, guests slumber in rooms adorned with fresh flowers and high-thread-count sheets, a quick swim away from white-sand beaches. 800/657-3275, pearlresorts.com, Raiatea overwater bungalow $569 June-November; Moorea $329 June-November.

Philippines
The El Nido Lagen Island Resort's 51 air-conditioned cabins (18 over the water) are in a protected cove surrounded by lush forests and sheer limestone cliffs. Though the stilts and walls of the overwater units are concrete, the interiors have an elegant warmth, with floors and furnishings made of antique wood repurposed from Philippine homes. A 65-minute flight from Manila ($285) followed by a water taxi (free for guests) gets you there. Note: The U.S. State Department has issued a travel warning for the Philippines, so use caution. 011-632/894-5644, elnidoresorts.com, overwater bungalow $256 June-October.

Panama
Two tiny, remote overwater bungalow resorts in Panama do a wonderful job of copying the romantic thatched-roof South Pacific look and atmosphere. Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge is reached via a one-hour flight from Panama City ($140 round trip) followed by a water taxi that's complimentary for guests. The resort has nine bungalows--all two stories, built carefully to avoid damaging the coral below, with solar power and gorgeous palm-leaf roofs. 011-507/6612-1088, puntacaracol.com, $300 mid-May-June and September-mid-December.

Near the San Blas Islands, 25 minutes by plane from Panama City (about $65 round trip), the Coral Lodge's six casitas all sit over the water. They boast soaring roofs and creature comforts like Jacuzzis and air-conditioning. 011-507/317-6754, corallodge.com, $215 year-round except Christmastime.

Isolation's Downside
Because these resorts are so remote, dining on property is often the only option--so ask about meal costs before you book. Also, when checking in, request the most secluded suite available; sound really carries over water.

Cabin Fever
Two or three overwater nights should suffice. Complete the vacation by staying in a less expensive room or a cheaper hotel nearby that has an equally nice beach. An air/hotel package can also save you money, though companies often only include bungalows at bigger (and pricier) resorts. Request a custom-made package from South Pacific specialists like SunSpots (sunspotsintl.com) and ATS Tours (atstours.com) to see if it'll cost less than booking air and lodging piecemeal.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

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To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

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Before exchanging foreign currency at the airport, find out if there's a departure tax. At the Bangkok airport, we were very upset- as were travelers around us- to find we had to pay a fee before continuing to our gate. Unfortunately, by that point everyone had cashed in their baht, so the options were a conveniently located ATM, a credit card, or an exchange booth with notably poor rates. When we described this incident to friends, they told us of a similar experience when trying to leave the Dominican Republic.

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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

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