FEATURE

Gently Down the Stream

Cruise ships are now larger--and have more attractions--than some small nations. But there's also a subtler way to sail: river cruising. Marilyn Holstein explores Germany, Austria, and Hungary while drifting slowly along the Danube.

The Danube, as seen from a bridge in Regensburg (Jessica Antola)

The big trend in cruising is bigness: Cruise lines are launching massive ships that can carry as many as 3,600 passengers. Everything you need for an exciting vacation is right onboard--spas, casinos, discos, specialty restaurants, even rock-climbing walls and surfing pools. It's a lot like going to Vegas.

But the second-biggest trend is the polar opposite--which may not be a coincidence. River cruising is all about slowness and intimacy: Ships holding 150 to 300 passengers drift their way along the world's most scenic rivers, including the Rhone, the Rhine, the Yangtze, and the Nile.

I've cruised all over--the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, the Great Barrier Reef--on large ships, on upscale ships, even on sailboats. But I'd never been on a river cruise, and I'd never been anywhere near the Danube.

Booking the Cruise
Many cruise lines--including Viking River Cruises, Uniworld Grand River Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Grand Circle Travel, and Peter Deilmann Cruises--have sailings on the Danube. I chose Viking's Romantic Danube itinerary (although I wasn't sure it'd be all that romantic, considering my mother would be joining me), mostly because it was short, eight days compared to 10 to 14 days on other lines. The cruise began in Nürnberg, Germany, and ended in Budapest, Hungary.

The cruise was also relatively inexpensive, at least compared to the options on other lines. We paid $8,608 for two people for a Category B cabin, which included round-trip flights (via Frankfurt) from New York City, seven tours, all meals, port charges, and airline taxes. It was higher than it might've been because I booked late: Only Category B cabins were available, and I missed the early-booking discount.

I investigated booking our own flights; since we were taking a one-way cruise and flying into one city and out of another, however, we were definitely better off letting Viking handle it. When my mother had to cancel, my boyfriend, Richard, came to the rescue. Changing the air reservations proved a hassle; it took six phone calls to get us on the same flight.

A month before departure, Viking sent a nifty gray carton with a magnetic closure. It felt like Christmas Day as we went through the box: It held our tickets for the flights, the cruise, and airport-to-ship transfers; information on the ship and itinerary; booklets describing Eastern Europe and offering packing tips; a cloth pouch for carrying travel documents; and a suggested reading list.

We learned the hard way, however, that we should've confirmed our seat assignments with the airline as soon as we received our tickets. When we realized we didn't have assigned seats, we went to the airport early and tried for the exit row, to no avail.

Aboard the Ship
My embarkations have been limited to big terminals and large piers, so I was pleasantly surprised to find our vessel docked along a grassy expanse. During the hour we had to wait for our cabin to be ready, I investigated the riverbank. We were right by a path, with the occasional rollerblader zipping by. A beer garden was across the way.

The Viking Europe, built in 2001, has three decks and 75 cabins; it can hold 150 passengers and sails with a crew of 40. There are two main common areas: the dining room back at the stern where three meals are served daily, and the Observation Lounge in the bow, home to a small cocktail bar and the site for briefings, entertainment, and light snacks. Just off the Observation Lounge is a small library with books and games. The outdoor Sun Deck, atop the ship, has lounge chairs and several small tables and chairs.

Otherwise, there are no frills--no room service, no hot tubs, no in-room refrigerators, no exercise facilities. Our cabin had two twin beds and no toiletries in the bathroom. (Viking now says there should've been some, but all I know is that I had to purchase shampoo from the front desk.) The storage space, however, was deluxe: eight drawers and a full-size closet. While frequent cruisers often request a cabin in the front of the ship, because it tends to be quieter, we were in the very back of the Viking Europe and didn't experience any discomfort. The service was very responsive: Requests for extra pillows, a hairdryer, and more hangers were met within five minutes.

Each day we visited a different city, but with the same routine. First, there were two hours for breakfast, a lavish buffet of juices, breads, sliced meats and cheeses, scrambled eggs, sausages, bacon, pastries, yogurt, cereal, and fruit; in addition, omelets and blueberry pancakes were cooked to order. Then cruise director Casey Lyn started making announcements about when to board the tour buses.


Free downloadable airline directory wallet card
DOWNLOADABLE CRUISE CHECKLIST
Download the handy checklist, print it out, cut on the dotted lines, and take it with you. You can also give them to your friends! If you don't already have it, you will need Adobe Acrobat, a free (and easy!) plug-in, to read the checklist.
  • Download the checklist
  • Download Adobe Acrobat
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
    Follow Us!

    Booking Tool

    Check Current Prices

    1. Hotels
    2. Flights
    3. Cars
    4. Cruises

    Choose Sites

    Choose Sites

    Choose Sites

    Choose Sites

    Travel Tips

    Tagged
    Loyalty Programs
    375250

    If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

    — Kristin Farrell
    Tagged
    Packing
    500570

    If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

    — Jack Bell
    Tagged
    Packing
    366282

    Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

    — Jon Chun
    Tagged
    Photography
    452639

    Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

    — Cynda Perun
    Tagged
    Safety
    441297

    Our bags have been stolen twice from inside locked rental cars. Now we travel with a bicycle cable and lock. If we absolutely have to leave our suitcases in the car, I hook them together by the handles and attach the whole thing to the frame of a seat or a secure item in the trunk. Even if thieves manage to get into our car, the cable will make it very difficult for them to make off with the luggage.

    — Karen McCarty
    Tagged
    Planning
    375268

    Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

    — Eleanor Waterhouse
    Tagged
    Cruises
    414318

    If your tablecloth is wet at dinner, you should prepare for rough seas. Restaurant staffers have been known to slightly dampen the tablecloth to keep plates and glasses from sliding.

    — Martha and Ken Wiseman
    Tagged
    Packing
    422604

    If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

    — Rebecca Oberg
    Tagged
    Packing
    388296

    Once the hotel shampoo bottles I always seem to bring home are empty, I refill them with my own brand of shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel--instead of buying travel-size containers at the drugstore. I toss them, along with other small items (toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, pillboxes, and a comb), into a medium-size Ziploc bag, and I'm ready to go; the clear plastic lets me find things easily.

    — Donna Cover
    Tagged
    Solo Travel
    344264

    When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

    — Kelly Christensen
    Tagged
    Planning
    456646

    My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

    — Susan Fornoff
    Tagged
    Shopping
    360285

    Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

    — Jennifer Beach
    Tagged
    Transportation
    359254

    Carry the exact change for public transportation. In Venice, we were annoyed when a vaporetto (water taxi) ticket-taker refused to give us our change. Later, we discovered that if you don't have the exact fare, ticket agents make no promises about giving change.

    — Dana Hunting
    Tagged
    Car Rentals
    359264

    Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

    — Doreen Stelton
    Tagged
    Packing
    407285

    When I travel with friends, we decide ahead of time who's going to bring what. If we're sharing a suite or have adjoining rooms, we don't need multiple hair dryers and umpteen bottles of shampoo. With the weight limits on baggage, we'll need the extra space in our suitcases for souvenirs!

    — Haley Christensen
    Tagged
    Safety
    445310

    Rather than risk losing your department-store credit cards and club-membership cards, you should really leave them behind when you go somewhere you won't need them. Your purse or wallet will be lighter and your worries fewer.

    — George Bracken
    Tagged
    Packing
    383275

    Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

    — Farrah Farhang
    Tagged
    Packing
    358253

    Pack a travel-size shampoo container refilled with detergent and a one-gallon Ziploc bag for when you need to wash hosiery, bras, and other delicate undergarments. Put a few drops of detergent into the bag and fill it part way with water. Place the garment in the bag, close it up, and shake it around for a few minutes. Instant washing machine! For larger pieces of clothing, I've used the plastic laundry bags supplied at most hotels. Just hold on to the open end tightly.

    — Erika Kumada
    Tagged
    Family Travel
    365265

    When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

    — Heather Crow
    Tagged
    Safety
    445304

    A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

    — Rusty Cartmill
    Tagged
    Planning
    361258

    Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

    — Jeanette Cantwell
    Tagged
    Family Travel
    381286

    Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

    — Chandra Huang
    Tagged
    Planning
    355278

    Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

    — Nancy Easterbrook
    Tagged
    Packing
    362300

    I find that hotel bathrooms rarely have enough hangers and hooks for clothes and wet towels, so I always bring a few snap-lock suction hooks. (They function better than regular suction hooks because they're more secure and are therefore able to hold heavier items.) It's always nice to have a place to hang a bathrobe.

    — Laura Tillman
    Tagged
    Safety
    443324

    I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

    — Lila Held
    Tagged
    Packing
    391276

    When carrying around my small umbrella, I put it in a Ziploc bag. After using it, I can store the umbrella, back inside the Ziploc, in my shoulder bag without getting everything else soaked.

    — Sandy Sussman
    Tagged
    Packing
    364297

    Always carry peanut butter. A plastic jar is easy to pack, doesn't need refrigeration, is a great source of protein, and makes a quick, cheap meal when coupled with local bread. (But don't forget to pack a plastic knife for spreading it.)

    — Nancy Norman
    Tagged
    Road Trips
    411333

    I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

    — Patsy Maddox
    Tagged
    Air Travel
    372275

    I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

    — John Eymann
    Tagged
    Planning
    384270

    When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

    — F. Richard Leininger

    Custom Search

    Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
    SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
    SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES