MONTREAL

There's Nothing Like the Big City

When was the last time you wore heels? The last time you went dancing--other than at a wedding? The last time you ate at a restaurant without crayons on the table? The last time you stayed up past midnight?

(Roger Lemoyne)

Montreal: Like Paris, but a Lot Closer

Shops You Can't Find Everywhere
Eva B.: Creaky floors and an eclectic collection of costume jewelry, vintage clothing, and retro footwear make this a rummager's paradise. The owner is friendly, but she drives a hard bargain.

Lola & Emily: Designed to look like the apartment of a fashionable girl about town, the boutique stocks flirty Third Floor underwear, Joe's Jeans, and Velvet dresses.

Parasuco: The sexy jeans may have infiltrated a mall near you, but the brand's flagship (in a former bank) is only in Montreal. The newly renovated three-level emporium has a two-story chandelier, custom mosaic floor, and full-service spa and salon.

Boutique Reborn: This shop in Old Montreal is a treasure trove of highly covetable items from labels such as Preen, Acne Jeans, and Cheap Monday, as well as pieces by local designers.

Mona Moore: A girly shop with shoes from the likes of Pierre Hardy, Balenciaga, and Miu Miu.

We Love Brunch
The best thing at Eggspectation is the Brioche Beauty, a cinnamon brioche that's buttered, grilled, and topped with yogurt, roasted almonds, and honey, then served with mixed fruit. So yummy!

Hot Ticket
Canadian humor is showcased at two clubs: the Comedy Nest and Comedyworks. If you're in town over the summer, keep an eye out for the Just for Laughs Comedy Festival, which puts on lots of free shows.

Sweet Fix
Rockaberry bakes homemade pies in wonderful flavors like Toblerone Cheese, Chocolate Banana Split, and Rockabrownie.

Home Base
Hyatt Regency Montreal is east of rue Crescent's party bars and west of the hip restaurants on boulevard St.-Laurent.

Rooms at the SpringHill Suites feature two double beds, a pullout sofa, and a basic kitchen, all amid the stone buildings of Old Montreal.

Boutique Hotel St. Paul tucks a luxurious, minimalist aesthetic inside a historic beaux arts structure: Double rooms have wood floors and oversize marble soaking tubs in the bathrooms.

Where to Kick Up Your Heels
Grown-up drinks: Inside the Hotel Place d'Armes, Suite 701 is a lounge with leather banquettes; it specializes in martinis (and cute banker types, if you're into that).

Outdoor seating: For expertly prepared mojitos served in airy white cabanas, each of which features a sleek, pillow-covered bed alongside tables and chairs, head to Time Boutique Café.

Till midnight: If Le Blanc's fusion menu isn't entertaining enough, the live music (jazz, swing, or pop, depending on the night) definitely will be.

Till 3 A.M.: At Altitude 737, atop one of the tallest buildings in Montreal, fancy cocktails accompany dance music and amazing views.

Till dawn: Stereo, fitted with one of the best you-know-what systems in the city, is the late-night destination of jet-setters, drag queens, and club kids for dancing into the morning.

Something you'll regret: A Montreal institution, Le 281 features male exotic dancers--not Chippendale types, but more contemporary versions of hotness, such as the jock, the hipster, and the intellectual. If you need to work up courage, shots (including one named "The Orgasm") are mixed right at your table.

What's for Dinner?
Fab but not fussy, the delicious seven-course tasting menu at Toqué!--with native ingredients such as Nova Scotia princess scallops and Basses-Laurentides suckling pig--is a big draw for foodies.

The Italian cuisine at Buonanotte, a hotspot for 15 years, is secondary to the scenester vibe and beautiful-people crowd: George Clooney and Gisele Bündchen are among the celebs who've been spotted here. Around midnight, a DJ spins club music.

Pamper Yourself
Rainspa's soothing waterfalls and softly lit rooms--plus the only real hammam (Turkish bath) in town--make the bustle of Old Montreal seem miles away.

So Gloppy, but So Darn Good
Poutine is a disgusting (yet tasty!) combo of french fries, cheese curds, and gravy--it's most commonly enjoyed after a drink or five, but at La Banquise, a beloved hole-in-the-wall, you can order the dish 24 hours a day.

Streets Made for Shopping
Boulevard St.-Laurent (bet. avenues Laurier and Bernard): up-and-coming designers like Denis Gagnon, Marie-M, and Renata Morales.

Rue Ste.-Catherine (bet. rue de la Montagne and rue Aylmer): mainstream Canadian brands (Roots, Browns, Jacob) and classic department stores (Ogilvy, La Baie, Simons).

Rue St.-Paul (bet. rues McGill and Bonsecours): sleek shops selling local clothes, furniture, and art, right in Old Montreal.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Solo Travel
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
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Technology
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To find the perfect destination with airfare that meets your budget, try Travelocity's Dream Maps travel tool (travelocity.com). Select a maximum fare and a type of destination (city, national park, etc.) and the Web site will display a variety of trips matching that description.

— Matt Vance
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Packing
423607

Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Planning
358252

If you're divorced and plan to travel out of the country with your children, check the legal requirements in advance. When I tried to take my kids to Cancun, I learned too late that Mexico requires a notarized letter of consent signed by both parents for minors traveling alone or with one parent or guardian. If the parents are divorced, a copy of the parental custody agreement is allowed instead. The airlines enforce this rule before you get on the plane.

— Marge Stratton
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Hotels
431335

Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
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Safety
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If you're a woman traveling alone, or your accommodations don't inspire confidence, simply wedge a small rubber doorstop at the base of the door when you're inside the room. It'll be virtually impossible to open the door from the outside.

— Kimberly Milne-Fowler
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Shopping
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When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Packing
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If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Planning
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Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
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Planning
383274

When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

— Joyce Morden
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Shopping
358258

Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

— Rami Aboumahadi
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Technology
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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Road Trips
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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Packing
347245

Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

— Marilyn Rogers
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Dining
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To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

— Bianca Mims
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Hotels
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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Air Travel
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The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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Hotels
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If you make a hotel reservation online and then cancel online, print out and save the cancellation confirmation for at least two billing cycles past your trip. After our vacation, I found a "no-show" charge on my credit card for a room that I'd canceled well in advance. Without the confirmation, I had no way to contest the bill.

— Karen Griffith-Hedberg
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Cruises
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We like to buy shipboard souvenirs, so we try to choose a ship that's completing its run of an area--that's when merchandise is generally put on sale. Last year, for example, on a sailing in South America, all of the T-shirts, glassware, and rain jackets were 75 percent off.

— Carol Callahan
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Packing
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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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Hotels
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Before you buy expensive bottled water from your hotel room minibar, head to the fitness center. You'll be able to fill up an empty bottle at the gym's water cooler or fountain for free, and you don't need to break a sweat.

— Amanda Geraci
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Planning
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Be certain to have enough blank pages in your passport. Someone I know had a terrible time getting per- mission to board a flight from Zambia to South Africa because she didn't have the two blank passport pages required to enter South Africa. Thank goodness my husband had read about the requirement. Before the trip, we sent our passports to the center in Charleston and had extra pages added at no charge.

— Patricia Beagle
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Packing
373242

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Transportation
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Before traveling by taxi in foreign (or even domestic) locations, ask a local (perhaps stopping in shops to question the sales staff) what the approximate taxi fare would be to a particular location. They've always been pleased to help me. In this manner, I can avoid paying the inflated tourist rates!

— Carol P. McCrea
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Packing
376249

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Packing
366271

During the hot months of summer, I plan to travel with a very small spray bottle. I'll fill it with water and use it as a mister to keep cool. I got this idea when we stayed at the Noga Hilton in Cannes. On the dresser was a pink aerosol can full of Evian water. I took it with us sightseeing and, wow, it was so refreshing to spritz water on our faces.

— Joy Shebroe
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Transportation
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I prefer laminated city maps because I can circle all the things I want to see in a given day with a dark erasable marker. Once I have everything marked, I plan my route and start walking. The next day, I erase the previous day's marks and begin all over again.

— Sandy Hughes
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Dining
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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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Packing
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Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell

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