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Paris at a Price That's Right
From bohemian to luxe, here are five boutique properties with atmosphere to spare.
May 2007 issue
Tuesday, April 17, 2007;
HôTEL CARON DE BEAUMARCHAIS
First Impression From the pianoforte dating to 1792 to the gilt-framed mirrors, the hotel re-creates the feel of an 18th-century artist's home. It's named for Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais, the French playwright whose Le Mariage de Figaro was adapted by Mozart. Beaumarchais lived just up the road.
The Rooms No two of the 19 rooms are the same, though most have sumptuous fabrics, a crystal chandelier refitted with electric candles, an original exposed-beam ceiling, and an antique writing desk and armoire.
Plus The hotel might look like it dates from another era, but it has modern conveniences like flat-screen TVs, WiFi, and air-conditioning.
Minus The seven rooms facing the tiny courtyard lack natural light, particularly the one on the ground floor.
Details 12 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arr., 011-33/1-42-72-34-12, carondebeaumarchais.com, from $165.
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HôTEL LA MANUFACTURE
First Impression An elegant limestone exterior gives way to a lobby with the pizzazz of a Matisse canvas. Orange armchairs sit atop boldly striped rag rugs, and the walls are decorated with local artist Alberto Cont's geometric paintings.
The Rooms While four seventh-floor minisuites evoke a kind of minimalist plantation-style aesthetic, with white cotton fabrics and dark wood furniture, the 52 smaller rooms on the hotel's six other floors are more traditionally Parisian, with walls painted in turquoise, rose, or yellow and soft curtains.
Plus Room 74, a suite, has a view of the Eiffel Tower.
Minus There's a police station next door, and the car sirens can be obtrusive.
Details 8 rue Philippe de Champagne, 13th arr., 011-33/1-45-35-45-25, hotel-la-manufacture.com, from $155.
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HôTEL THÉRÈSE
First Impression Renovated in 2002, the hotel pulls off a blend of French charm and British classicism. The combined library and bar has the feel of an English club, with wood-paneled walls and plush armchairs, while the lounge is decorated with an array of French art.
The Rooms The prices are three-star, but the feel is four-star. The 43 stylish suites are decorated in shades of pistachio, slate gray, beige, or royal blue and furnished with designer chairs and bedside tables. Thick cottons, heavy velvets, and natural wool add both comfort and texture.
Plus Owner Sylvie de Lattre, who trolled Parisian flea markets for the paintings and prints that personalize each room, can advise on the city's best antiques-shopping spots.
Minus Guests looking for less-expensive shops and food will have to wander outside the area's rarefied bounds.
Details 5-7 rue Thérèse, 1st arr., 011-33/1-42-96-10-01, hoteltherese.com, from $190.
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HôTEL DES ARTS
First Impression Up a narrow cobblestoned lane, Hôtel des Arts plays upon its former incarnation as a dormitory for Moulin Rouge dancers. Elevator doors on each floor are painted with cancan girls, and the original stone walls in the lobby and breakfast room are decorated with paintings of the quarter.
The Rooms The 50 rooms are small but comfortably furnished with double beds or two twins and writing desks. Flowers or checks on the curtains and bedspreads lend a French country style. Four rooms on the sixth floor have views of the dome of Sacré Coeur.
Plus Because of its former association with the Moulin Rouge, the hotel can often secure last-minute seats to performances.
Minus After dark, the neighborhood is home to a sizeable number of sex workers.
Details 5 rue Tholozé, 18th arr., 011-33/1-46-06-30-52, arts-hotel-paris.com, from $125.
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HôTEL DES SAINTS-PÈRES
First Impression The hotel is a 17th-century town house that was once the residence of one of Louis XIV's architects, Daniel Gittard. It's decorated with an impressive collection of antiques and 18th-century paintings.
The Rooms Each of the 39 rooms possesses unique features, from the exposed-beam ceiling in Room 114 to the loft bathroom in Room 405, a duplex. Room 100 (at 355 euros a night, the most expensive) has a 17th-century fresco painted by artists from the school of Versailles. It can be viewed if the room is vacant.
Plus When the weather is nice, breakfast is served outdoors in the courtyard garden.
Minus You have to know to ask for one of three smaller rooms that go for 145 euros. Advertised rates start at 165 euros.
Details 65 rue des Saints-Pères, 6th arr., 011-33/1-45-44-50-00, paris-hotel-saints-peres.com, from $185.
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'Hood The Marais, historically the city's Jewish quarter and now also a center for gay nightlife. It's one of the few neighborhoods with shops that are open on Sundays.
'Hood The up-and-coming 13th arrondissement, also known as Gobelins, the name of the famous tapestry factory that's been in operation there for more than 400 years. The area is home to many students and the city's enormous Chinatown.
'Hood It's not called the 1st arrondissement for nothing. In the heart of Paris, it encompasses Place Vendôme, the Louvre, and the Tuileries gardens.
'Hood Montmartre, the sexy bohemian district in northern Paris. Landmarks include Sacré Coeur cathedral and the Moulin Rouge.
'Hood St-Germain-des-Prés. Once known as a literary area, it's now a sophisticated shopping district anchored by Le Bon Marché, the famous department store.