YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE

Cutest. Story. Ever.

You haven't had a bear hug until you've cuddled with a panda (or better yet, a panda cub). There's a reserve deep in China that makes it possible.

The desire to hug is mutual (courtesy Joshuah Bearman)

It began by accident. My girlfriend, Ronni, and her twin sister, Marina, rented a documentary on panda bears. We all melted. Then we went online and found videos of tourists, somewhere in China, embracing pandas. One showed a gaggle of cubs eagerly descending a slide in what looked like panda day care. "We have to find this place," Ronni said, eyes lighting up.

A friend of a friend had recently gone to China on a botanical excursion, and I could see the wheels turning in Ronni's and Marina's heads. Soon enough, we had tickets and immunization appointments. Much in the same way you might say, "Hey, let's go to a movie," we made plans to cross the Pacific.

We had no basis to believe that meeting pandas was possible for ordinary people. We consulted guidebooks and online travel forums, and our best bet appeared to be a facility for research and visitors at the Wolong Nature Reserve, about five hours away from Chengdu in Sichuan province. Because it was difficult to reach, we figured it must be more rewarding.

Once in Hong Kong, I contracted a fixer on the mainland to help sort everything out. His name was Huang, and he'd been to Wolong earlier that year with National Geographic.

Ever since Empress Wu Zetian sent a pair of panda bears to the Japanese emperor around A.D. 700, China's public face has been represented by the furry goodwill ambassadors, who even forced a smile from Richard Nixon. Today, we noticed upon arrival in Shanghai, you don't see dour Mao nearly as much as Jingjing, the flower-crowned cartoon panda that's one of the Beijing 2008 Olympic mascots, and just the first in the parade of pandas that adorn China's storefronts, advertising, clothing, and vibrant cell-phone-charm industry.

In Chengdu, we were greeted at the airport by a 40-foot column topped with a giant bronze panda. On our way into the city, we also couldn't help but notice that the lampposts, rickshaws, and even highway overpasses were festooned or stenciled or otherwise decorated with pandas.

But Chengdu was just a transit point for our trek along the Min and Pitiao Rivers to the Wolong Nature Reserve. We hired a driver, part of a fairly dodgy tour we'd found last-minute on the Internet. All road travel in China happens frenetically--the constant, aggressive brinksmanship of millions of shoddy minivans with toy-like wheels. We left for Wolong at dusk, ascending steep gorges that sometimes disappeared into the mist, on roads that sometimes disappeared altogether.

There's no real town, and not many restaurants, other than the shabby ones at the Wolong Hotel and the Panda Inn.

The following day, we awoke to a crisp and cool autumn day, with the sound of the river filling the narrow valley. This is the panda's native habitat, a subalpine arboreal wonderland that makes you understand Chinese fairy tales. The China Conservation and Research Center for the Giant Panda has marked off large enclosures for its several dozen pandas.

Last summer, the notoriously fickle pandas produced 18 cubs. We could see some of them through the glass of the nursery. The newest born were tiny pink nubs. Those slightly older were fed with bottles. The cubs we had seen online were from the previous summer. A little over a year old, all 16 played together in a single enclosure next to the nursery.

Three Japanese girls entered the day-care center and frolicked among the cubs. "How can we do that?" I asked Tang, one of the keepers. He took us to an office, where we discovered advance work to arrange a special panda visit is unnecessary. To hug baby pandas, all you have to do is show up and pay the Wolong Panda Club $130 per person.

That's nothing for five minutes of nirvana. In the flesh, the cubs were so unbelievably cute that they seemed artificial. With their round heads, big eyes, and rolling gait, they looked and acted like Jim Henson creations. Touching one felt like meeting a unicorn.

The cubs moved like puppies in a curious, playful swarm. They didn't lick so much as nuzzle. And grab: To our delight, the desire for hugging was mutual, and what began as a careful encounter quickly devolved into fuzzy mayhem as the cubs attached themselves to our arms and legs. At one point, Ronni was dragged to the ground by a clutch of cubs, and she beamed beatifically. "I can't believe this is happening," she said as she freed herself, only to be taken down again.

After the staff pulled the cubs off us, we stood around in a daze. Stepping back outside of the panda pen, Ronni stopped grinning long enough to say, "I want to do that again."

Round-trip airfare between Chengdu and Beijing, Hong Kong, or Shanghai runs $400 to $680 on Dragonair or Air China.

How to Get There
The Wolong Nature Reserve is five hours from Chengdu; for under $100 a day, you can hire a driver at Chengdu's Dragon Town youth hostel (011-86/28-8664-8408, dragontown.com.cn).

The hotels in Wolong are the Wolong Hotel (011-86/837-624-6888) and the Panda Inn (011-86/837-624-3028). The Wolong Panda Club charges $33 per day to volunteer with the pandas; playing with cubs costs $130 (011-86/837-624-3058, pandaclub.net).

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
Follow Us!

Booking Tool

Check Current Prices

  1. Hotels
  2. Flights
  3. Cars
  4. Cruises

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Choose Sites

Travel Tips

Tagged
Car Rentals
344243

We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

— Marcia Meyer
Tagged
Technology
369274

I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
Tagged
Technology
374260

Before traveling to any city, do a search on the Internet of the city name and the word "coupon" ("New Orleans coupon"). You will find many sites offering two-for-one, percentage-off, and dollar-off discounts. On a recent trip to St.Louis, we saved $100 at restaurants and attractions.

— Carolyn J. Kubacki
Tagged
Dining
328265

By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
Tagged
Packing
379277

In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

— Erica Rounsefell
Tagged
Planning
332268

I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
Tagged
Air Travel
345245

Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
Tagged
Photography
352279

Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
Tagged
Packing
357295

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
Tagged
Technology
391272

When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

— Duane Dahl
Tagged
Shopping
312225

When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

— Alice Fraser
Tagged
Packing
353247

Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
Tagged
Planning
358241

Most hotels provide cloth shoe mitts but not polish. In a pinch, a dollop of skin cream on a shoe mitt (or even a tissue) can make scuff marks vanish and leave shoes as shiny as if they'd been cleaned by a pro.

— John Nechman
Tagged
Hotels
391306

When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

— Fran Schaak
Tagged
Packing
322276

When I go on a trip that requires me to accessorize a number of outfits, I buy little Ziploc bags and place the appropriate jewelry/panty hose/scarf inside. Then I punch a hole just big enough to slide the bag over the outfit's hanger. This way, my panty hose stay snag-free and my jewelry never gets misplaced.

— Gina Beyer
Tagged
Packing
329257

Lightweight, washable, and multifunctional, a cotton sarong is an easy and practical addition to every traveler's don't-leave-home-without-it bag! I've used mine as a swimsuit cover-up, as a picnic blanket on the grounds of a château in the Loire Valley, as a temporary skirt (over my shorts) in a Bangkok temple, and as an extra pillow while hiking the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. It's also handy as an airplane blanket, emergency towel, or tablecloth.

— Nicole Serafica
Tagged
Family Travel
334224

If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
Tagged
Family Travel
354247

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
Tagged
Hotels
408328

Many tourist information offices provide discounted same-day booking services for local lodgings. My husband and I discovered this when we accidentally left a midweek gap in our travel plans between my husband's conference hotel and our B&B in Charleston. Instead of adding another night at either location, we stayed at one of the more elegant inns (normally over $200) for $70, courtesy of the Charleston Convention and Visitors Bureau.

— Audrey E. Vance
Tagged
Air Travel
356269

Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
Tagged
Hotels
398306

Try getting a discount on your hotel room by offering to pay in cash. A hotel reservationist suggested this approach when I phoned to reserve at a hotel in London. I asked if the hotel could grant a discount based on my AARP or AAA membership, as many hotels do in the United States. Her response was that the only discount she was able to offer was 10 percent if I paid in cash.

— Joan Nikelsky
Tagged
Technology
367268

After I fell into a stream in Cambodia, my digital camera wouldn't work. Someone suggested leaving the camera in a bag of rice overnight to draw out any condensation. By the next morning, it was dry and working perfectly.

— Roger Bailey
Tagged
Air Travel
353268

We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
Tagged
Planning
337272

Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
Tagged
Safety
416317

I agree that the anti-seasickness medication for cruises, Bonine, is excellent and effective; but there is a budget way to buy it. The primary ingredient in Bonine is meclizine (25 mg). While a package of eight Bonine tablets costs just over $4 at a drugstore, you can buy a bottle of 100 generic meclizine (25 mg) for about the same price. This is an over-the-counter (no prescription needed) item, but you usually have to ask for it at the pharmacy counter.

— Lila Held
Tagged
Technology
403281

Quotetravelinsurance.com gives you comparable details on more than one hundred travel-insurance plans, enabling you to make the best buy. It relies on ratings from insurance industry overseers such as A.M. Best and state insurance commissioners before allowing an insurance company into its extensive lineup.

— Marc Oppy
Tagged
Solo Travel
520550

In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

— Christine and Duncan Orr
Tagged
Dining
349267

To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

— Bianca Mims
Tagged
Road Trips
374316

Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
Tagged
Planning
345277

Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak

Custom Search

Select the details relevant to your trip to see a list of articles that match your needs — it's the best way to get ideas!
SELECT YOUR DESTINATION
SELECT YOUR ACTIVITIES