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Humble Beginnings

History comes alive in Virginia's "Historic Triangle," making for an educational (but fun!) long weekend.

Jamestown Settlement

(Susanna Thornton)

Forget everything you learned from The New World and Pocahontas. The real story of the Jamestown colony is more intriguing than the movies. Pocahontas, probably about 10 years old when the colonists arrived, never had any romantic entanglement with Captain John Smith but did eventually marry an English-man named John...John Rolfe, that is. Smith was a notorious braggart who arrived here in chains after being arrested during the voyage. By his account, he saved the colony every other week (and it needed a lot of saving; in the winter of 1609-1610, for instance, more than 70 percent of the population starved to death).

Now is a great time to experience this story firsthand, minus the starving. The first permanent English colony in America--Smith and the others landed here in 1607, 13 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock--celebrates its 400th anniversary with special events all year long, including a visit this past May by Queen Elizabeth II.

Jamestown is divided into two parts. Historic Jamestowne is the site of the original colony, and from April to late September or early October, visitors watch archaeologists working where the fort once stood, and rangers and volunteers discuss the progress of the digs, which have turned up about a million artifacts. Last summer, the crew found a 17th-century luggage tag: It's marked YAMES TOWNE but arrived in the right place anyway (a nice little lesson in efficiency for today's airlines). In a visitors center that debuted in January, a short film explains that the colony, a commercial venture, was meant to find gold or at least a passage to the Orient.

The Archaearium, which opened last year, shows off artifacts found at the site. One exhibit presents information on colonial-era medical practices (including brain surgery) and tools. Other objects tell a lot about daily life: A small silver implement shaped like a dolphin, for example, has a spoon at the tail that was used for removing earwax. The museum is above the ruins of a 17th-century statehouse; you can see the remains through glass floor panels.

Historic Jamestowne shows the bones; Jamestown Settlement, built for the 1957 anniversary (which Queen Elizabeth also attended), puts flesh on them. There are replicas of the three ships that brought the colonists, as well as full-size re-creations of their fort and a Native American village. Guides in period dress show how colonists raised crops, treated hides, built canoes, and more. It'd be corny if the guides weren't so knowledgeable. A recently completed visitors center houses a 30,000-square-foot museum that traces the history of the area from the arrival of the first Native American settlers, around 15,000 years ago, up to the 18th century.

Included with entry to Historic Jamestowne is Yorktown Battlefield, to the northeast. It's at the other end of the 23-mile-long Colonial Parkway (America's narrowest national park) and the other end of the colonial era. The site of the decisive battle of the Revolutionary War, it's where British forces surrendered to George Washington in 1781.

Like Jamestown Settlement, Colonial Williamsburg is an open-air museum--and again the folks in period dress raise concerns, but there's much to learn, and the experience is a lot of fun. The town does seem to have covered all the bases on trinket sales (need a tiny tricorn hat for your Pekingese?). It's easy to walk the area, and maybe more enjoyable to rent a bike from Bikesmith.

When it's time for a bite to eat, Josiah Chowning's Tavern is a friendly spot: Tables are shared, the period music is live, and the waiters teach colonial-era dice games. The Sampler Platter, with ribs, coleslaw, tangy cheese dip with slivers of toast, and more, easily feeds two.

The Quality Inn Lord Paget, a few minutes drive from the colonial area, is an old motor inn; some rooms have four-poster beds, and the included self-serve breakfast (cereal, yogurt, bagels, fruit, even biscuits and gravy) is nice, though the breakfast room can get full to overflowing. Some genius at Berret's Seafood has topped a crab cake sandwich with more crab--the result is untraditional, but delicious.

Transportation

 

  • Bikesmith 515 York St., 757/229-9858, bike $14.50 per day

Lodging

 

  • Quality Inn Lord Paget 901 Capitol Landing Rd.,800/537-2438, choicehotels.com from $54

Food

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

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Photography
379289

Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
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Planning
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When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

— Brian Berg
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Planning
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If you're traveling with someone, discuss a central meeting place in case you get separated. My husband and I were in Paris waiting to board the Metro. He was able to board the train, but I was left behind on the platform. Having a plan saved both time and needless anxiety.

— Marian Moss
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Planning
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Planning
350267

Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

— Glenda McMurray
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Packing
350261

I've always traveled with a mini sewing kit in case I needed to sew on a loose button (or replace one).Now when I buy clothes, I just barely touch the end of a tube of Krazy Glue to the front of my buttons. Because they're covered by the glue, the threads don't fray as easily. No more lost buttons!

— Calvin Girvin
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Packing
358282

Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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Car Rentals
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You won't always save by bringing the rental car back early. Alamo has an early-return policy at all of its locations, designed to discourage customers from returning cars early. If you show up at the lot a day or two ahead of schedule, Alamo will recalculate what you owe them at the daily rate; if it turns out to be less than what you would have paid for the week, they'll charge a $15 fee. Yet another reason to read the fine print on your contract carefully!

— Beth Ann Finster
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Safety
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Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
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Shopping
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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Planning
370263

Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
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Air Travel
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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

— Henrietta Scarlett Ober
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Planning
376263

Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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Packing
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An extra contact lens case holds enough toiletries for a short trip. Squeeze a few dabs of toothpaste into one side and perhaps some facial cleanser or moisturizer in the other side. Just the right amount of each will fit for your overnights or weekends away.

— Jen Shoemaker
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Road Trips
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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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Photography
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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Packing
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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

— Patricia LaRock
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Dining
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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

— Jerri Moore
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Packing
427609

Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Packing
381288

Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell
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Photography
447630

Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun
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Planning
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While traveling, I love to send postcards to friends--and also to myself. I get the best photo postcard of the place I visited and write down what I did there as a reminder. When I get home, I tape them in my travel journals so I can flip back and forth between the photo and the reverie.

— Kimberly Morgan
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Technology
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By starting a blog for each trip--at blogger.com, among others--you can keep your friends and family up-to-date on your adventures. All you need is an Internet café to add entries and photos while you're on the road.

— Alan A. Lew
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Packing
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Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

— Fran Plewak
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Safety
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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Cruises
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Internet phone services like Vonage can be programmed to send transcribed voice mails to your email in-box. That way, you can check your home answering machine quickly at an Internet cafe without paying insane roaming fees on your cell. The transcriptions won't always be perfect, but you'll get the gist.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Hotels
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Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

— Gail Moriarty
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Cruises
414329

Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

— Anne Schweisguth
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Packing
416596

If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
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Planning
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I've discovered a wonderful way to enjoy massages at a fraction of the usual cost. Some massage-training schools provide superb service in a spa-type environment. Do a Google search to see if there are training programs near your next vacation destination.

— Karen Gardiner

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