FEATURE

My Montreal Is Better Than Yours*

Once again, bloggers are having their way with Budget Travel: A.J. Kinik and Michelle Marek--who write a wonderful blog, "...an endless banquet"--show us all where to eat, shop, and play in the city that they obsess over better than anyone else.

Local 23 specializes in vintage clothing and accessories

(Frances Juriansz)

*Actually, it should really be "Our Montreal"

Shop
Nearly every day--particularly if we plan to go shopping later--starts with a poppy or sesame seed bagel ("blacks" and "whites" in the local parlance) from Fairmount Bagel. Not because we're boring, but because we never tire of the world's very best (there, we've said it). Stick to the classics: Only schmucks order chocolate chip bagels.

Our life revolves around Jean-Talon Market. We find ourselves there nearly every week, even in winter. Come summer, Jean-Talon is almost a parody of a cornucopia. Two years ago, the market expanded and modernized--and actually came out even better. One reason is Philippe and Ethné de Viennes' Olives et Épices, which offers a truly incredible line of épices de cru--spices of ultrahigh quality sourced around the world by the de Vienneses. Some other reasons are their second store, La Dépense, where you can pick up the market's most delicious snack--fresh carrot-and-leek bahjis--for a song, as well as Havre aux Glaces with its small-batch ice creams and Cochons Touts Rond, featuring artisanal charcuterie.

Quincaillerie is French for "hardware store," but such shops are traditionally the place to buy kitchen supplies, too. Quincaillerie Dante adds a twist: It's part kitchen-supply store, part hunting and firearms specialist, and all Italian. Better yet, one of the owners, Elena Faita, and her son, Stefano, run Mezza Luna cooking school out of an apartment next door.

Just south of the market and Quincaillerie Dante are Bar Sportivo and Caffé Italia--two primo places to take in an Italian football match and a latte--as well as the city's biggest Italian food emporium, Milano.

Les Touilleurs, our other favorite kitchen-supply store, is on a chic stretch of Laurier, tantalizingly close to our apartment. Everything has that ideal combination of style and functionality--right down to the handsome recipe-of-the-month cards--and the retail space is beautiful.

Montreal isn't quite the antiquing city it once was, thanks to eBay, but there are finds to be made. Amherst Street has a slew of impressive places for 20th-century antiques; we like Antiquités A-Z. The city's greatest treasure trove, the Marché aux Puces St-Michel, is a real tale of two floors. Downstairs is almost Sanford & Son-ish, but upstairs is a bewildering array of furniture, signage, musical equipment (accordions!), records, china, and more.

Despite the fact that we have a blog, those who know us know that we're still very much believers in the world of print and stationery--and we're huge admirers of Nota Bene and its meticulous collection of paper products.

You're not going to find any secondhand bookstores claiming to stock 18 miles of books in this town, but we do have The Word, around the corner from Nota Bene. It looks like there are hardly more than 18 yards of books, but somehow we still manage to come away happy every time.

When they conducted their market research (yeah, right), the folks at Backroom Records & Pastries in Mile End must have come up with the two of us as ideal customers. They carry the best in used rock, reggae, folk, and jazz, plus the best in homemade pastries, candies, and other sweets. What's not to like? Especially when it's a semisecret store in the back room of someone's home.

For men's and women's fashions by more than 30 up-and-coming local designers, Mile End's General 54 is where it's happening, while its sister store, Local 23, specializes in vintage clothing and accessories.

Finally, three more hot tips for food.

Montreal's most refined selection of imported, Quebecois, and raw-milk cheese is in Outremont, in the gorgeous cabinets of Yannick Fromagerie d'Exception. If tea is your bag, pay a visit to Camellia Sinensis. There's a new location next to Jean-Talon Market, but the original location in the Quartier Latin includes a newly refurbished teahouse.

No tour of gourmet Montreal would be complete without a visit to a chocolatier. Our hands-down top choice is Les Chocolats de Chloé. Chloé Gervais-Fredette's attention to detail shows through in everything she touches, not just the small-batch, hand-dipped chocolate but also the shop and the packaging.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
377245

Use the shoeshine mitt often found in hotel bath- rooms to store your sunglasses. They fit nicely inside the pouch, and when you take them out, you have a soft material to clean them with. For extra protection while traveling, I store my sunglasses inside the shoe-shine mitt, fold the end closed, and then place it in my glasses case.

— Dan Coviello
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Transportation
365254

In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
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Shopping
368263

When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Cruises
441618

It's easy to lose track of time in a windowless interior cabin. Before going to sleep, tune into the ship's bridge-camera channel for real-time videos of the front (or bow) of the boat. The screen will act like a virtual porthole, and you'll rise and shine with the sunrise.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Technology
396273

After I fell into a stream in Cambodia, my digital camera wouldn't work. Someone suggested leaving the camera in a bag of rice overnight to draw out any condensation. By the next morning, it was dry and working perfectly.

— Roger Bailey
Tagged
Hotels
443361

If you can't sleep due to the heat in your non-air-conditioned hotel room, take a cold bottle of water and place it on your pillow, in the crook of your neck. It will cool your whole body down.

— Tony van Hasselt
Tagged
Planning
553597

Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
Tagged
Family Travel
370271

Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
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Loyalty Programs
386261

Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

— Harry Bishop
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Air Travel
381256

If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
Tagged
Planning
381286

Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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Rental Cars
429367

I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

— Jeff Mishur
Tagged
Cruises
389316

We decided to take our bikes on our last Caribbean cruise. It was a little crowded in the cabin, so the steward let us store them down the hall with the wheelchairs. We were last off the ship when we docked in Bermuda, but after five minutes we'd left our fellow passengers in the dust. And in less than fifteen minutes, we were far away from the busy port, enjoying a beautiful, deserted snorkeling beach.

— Wayne Matchett
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Technology
410288

We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
Tagged
Planning
353269

Make a master list of jobs to do around the house before you leave (hold the mail, water the plants, take out the garbage). Keep the list on your computer, print it out, then check off each job as it gets done. You'll be able to go without worrying that you forgot to stop the newspaper.

— Glenda McMurray
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Safety
423307

I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
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Packing
385291

If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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Car Rentals
370256

We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

— Marcia Meyer
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Cruises
399329

Bring a single-hole punch and lanyard on your next cruise. Once aboard, you can make a hole in your plastic key card and attach the lanyard, allowing you to carry the key around your neck. This is especially useful when your dress or slacks have no pockets. Just be sure to put the hole where it won't interfere with the card's magnetic strip.

— Sallie Clinard
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Family Travel
383286

Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker!

— Chandra Huang
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Packing
363265

I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

— Margot Johnson
Tagged
Packing
367282

Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

— Jon Chun
Tagged
Packing
394253

My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
Tagged
Planning
377292

Don't save the best for the last day. If you wait until the end of your trip for "must-do" activities, you won't be able to reschedule if something unforeseen happens. I planned a snorkeling excursion for my final day in San Diego, but the waters were too rough, and the trip had to be canceled.

— Melissa Coplak
Tagged
Packing
395273

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
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Museums
384284

If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

— Alice M. Solovy
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Car Rentals
370255

You won't always save by bringing the rental car back early. Alamo has an early-return policy at all of its locations, designed to discourage customers from returning cars early. If you show up at the lot a day or two ahead of schedule, Alamo will recalculate what you owe them at the daily rate; if it turns out to be less than what you would have paid for the week, they'll charge a $15 fee. Yet another reason to read the fine print on your contract carefully!

— Beth Ann Finster
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Packing
390304

After looking for years for the perfect toiletries bag and being frustrated by many that were less than ideal, I finally discovered one that is just right: a soft-sided lunch box I bought at the supermarket. It has an outer zipped pocket with small compartments and slots perfect for often-used items like a toothbrush and toothpaste. There's a small removable zipper pouch inside (meant for a small ice pack) for those smaller, hard-to-find items like nail files and pill bottles. The remaining space inside is just right for larger items like shampoo and hand lotion. Other helpful features include both a small handle and shoulder strap and a waterproof, easy-to-clean interior. As an elementary school teacher, I know firsthand that it'll last: It was designed to withstand daily use by kids!

— Jennifer Minton
Tagged
Planning
354258

If you're planning to use an ATM abroad, make sure the money you need is in your checking account, because some foreign ATMs don't allow access to savings accounts. And remember to carry your bank's local phone number with you; 800 numbers generally don't work overseas.

— Donna Johnson
Tagged
Technology
392302

For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens

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