FEATURE

My Montreal Is Better Than Yours*

Once again, bloggers are having their way with Budget Travel: A.J. Kinik and Michelle Marek--who write a wonderful blog, "...an endless banquet"--show us all where to eat, shop, and play in the city that they obsess over better than anyone else.

Local 23 specializes in vintage clothing and accessories

(Frances Juriansz)

*Actually, it should really be "Our Montreal"

Shop
Nearly every day--particularly if we plan to go shopping later--starts with a poppy or sesame seed bagel ("blacks" and "whites" in the local parlance) from Fairmount Bagel. Not because we're boring, but because we never tire of the world's very best (there, we've said it). Stick to the classics: Only schmucks order chocolate chip bagels.

Our life revolves around Jean-Talon Market. We find ourselves there nearly every week, even in winter. Come summer, Jean-Talon is almost a parody of a cornucopia. Two years ago, the market expanded and modernized--and actually came out even better. One reason is Philippe and Ethné de Viennes' Olives et Épices, which offers a truly incredible line of épices de cru--spices of ultrahigh quality sourced around the world by the de Vienneses. Some other reasons are their second store, La Dépense, where you can pick up the market's most delicious snack--fresh carrot-and-leek bahjis--for a song, as well as Havre aux Glaces with its small-batch ice creams and Cochons Touts Rond, featuring artisanal charcuterie.

Quincaillerie is French for "hardware store," but such shops are traditionally the place to buy kitchen supplies, too. Quincaillerie Dante adds a twist: It's part kitchen-supply store, part hunting and firearms specialist, and all Italian. Better yet, one of the owners, Elena Faita, and her son, Stefano, run Mezza Luna cooking school out of an apartment next door.

Just south of the market and Quincaillerie Dante are Bar Sportivo and Caffé Italia--two primo places to take in an Italian football match and a latte--as well as the city's biggest Italian food emporium, Milano.

Les Touilleurs, our other favorite kitchen-supply store, is on a chic stretch of Laurier, tantalizingly close to our apartment. Everything has that ideal combination of style and functionality--right down to the handsome recipe-of-the-month cards--and the retail space is beautiful.

Montreal isn't quite the antiquing city it once was, thanks to eBay, but there are finds to be made. Amherst Street has a slew of impressive places for 20th-century antiques; we like Antiquités A-Z. The city's greatest treasure trove, the Marché aux Puces St-Michel, is a real tale of two floors. Downstairs is almost Sanford & Son-ish, but upstairs is a bewildering array of furniture, signage, musical equipment (accordions!), records, china, and more.

Despite the fact that we have a blog, those who know us know that we're still very much believers in the world of print and stationery--and we're huge admirers of Nota Bene and its meticulous collection of paper products.

You're not going to find any secondhand bookstores claiming to stock 18 miles of books in this town, but we do have The Word, around the corner from Nota Bene. It looks like there are hardly more than 18 yards of books, but somehow we still manage to come away happy every time.

When they conducted their market research (yeah, right), the folks at Backroom Records & Pastries in Mile End must have come up with the two of us as ideal customers. They carry the best in used rock, reggae, folk, and jazz, plus the best in homemade pastries, candies, and other sweets. What's not to like? Especially when it's a semisecret store in the back room of someone's home.

For men's and women's fashions by more than 30 up-and-coming local designers, Mile End's General 54 is where it's happening, while its sister store, Local 23, specializes in vintage clothing and accessories.

Finally, three more hot tips for food.

Montreal's most refined selection of imported, Quebecois, and raw-milk cheese is in Outremont, in the gorgeous cabinets of Yannick Fromagerie d'Exception. If tea is your bag, pay a visit to Camellia Sinensis. There's a new location next to Jean-Talon Market, but the original location in the Quartier Latin includes a newly refurbished teahouse.

No tour of gourmet Montreal would be complete without a visit to a chocolatier. Our hands-down top choice is Les Chocolats de Chloé. Chloé Gervais-Fredette's attention to detail shows through in everything she touches, not just the small-batch, hand-dipped chocolate but also the shop and the packaging.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
365261

Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
Tagged
Planning
374269

Scuba-diving vacations can get expensive. As I start planning a trip, I call one of the local PADI dive shops and ask the employees about accommodations nearby. They give me hotel connections I couldn't find on my own, and I often save enough to pay for my dives.

— Lyle Bennett
Tagged
Air Travel
372290

If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

— Karen LoPresto-Arbaugh
Tagged
Technology
391299

When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

— Pam McMenamin
Tagged
Family Travel
372239

If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones
Tagged
Dining
378285

I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
Tagged
Packing
372245

The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
Tagged
Air Travel
376258

Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
Tagged
Hotels
440341

Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

— Linda Diebold Johnson
Tagged
Family Travel
370271

Create an ID page for each of your children before you leave on a trip. In addition to vacation contact information (hotel name and phone number), include the child's name, a current photo, home address, phone, date of birth, Social Security number, passport number, hair color, eye color, height, any identifying marks, blood type, allergies, medications, doctor and insurance phone numbers and ID numbers, immunization schedule, and fingerprints (these don't change, so investing the time to have a set made is worth it). If the unspeakable happens, the ability to hand over instant, concise information to authorities may prove invaluable. Update it before every trip.

— Robin Flannery
Tagged
Planning
338272

I have the words "hotel" and "taxi" on my cell- phone speed dial. On a trip, I change the numbers, but leave the preprogrammed titles the same--instant access and no more little slips of paper everywhere.

— Isabel Burk
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Packing
354260

I never leave home without dental floss. I've used it as a clothesline between tents in Botswana's Okavango Delta and to replace a lost screw for my sunglasses in Malaysia. I even cut off a piece of floss the size of my waist and headed to the night markets in Bangkok. My "tape measure" assured a perfect fit!

— Kristi Hemmer
Tagged
Loyalty Programs
375250

If you don't have enough frequent-flier miles to get to Europe, use your miles to reach a major airport in the United States and then pay for the overseas flight from there. For a trip to Ireland, my husband and I used Delta SkyMiles to get from Cincinnati to New York's JFK airport and from there took Aer Lingus to Ireland. The Aer Lingus internet special was $267 per person. A Delta flight from Cincinnati to Ireland was $1,150 for two. We saved more than $600.

— Kristin Farrell
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Packing
390297

Once the hotel shampoo bottles I always seem to bring home are empty, I refill them with my own brand of shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel--instead of buying travel-size containers at the drugstore. I toss them, along with other small items (toothbrush, toothpaste, nail file, pillboxes, and a comb), into a medium-size Ziploc bag, and I'm ready to go; the clear plastic lets me find things easily.

— Donna Cover
Tagged
Planning
344248

Certified scuba divers who take prescription medications should keep a doctor's permission-to-dive statement with their certification cards. On a recent trip to Jamaica, I truthfully completed a lengthy questionnaire about my health, revealing that I have medically controlled high blood pressure and cholesterol. I was told I could not dive without a doctor's OK, even though I exercise regularly, am very fit, and have no other health issues. I now carry a letter from my doctor attesting to my fitness for scuba diving.

— Ginny Ganthner
Tagged
Planning
377263

We've traveled to both Mexico and China in the last year and had the same experience in both countries: When we tried to exchange dollars to local currency, the banks wouldn't take bills with graffiti on them--telephone numbers, names, doodles, anything. Nor would they accept any bills that were torn or damaged. (We noticed a group from France having the same problem with their euros.) So before you leave home, make sure that any money you plan on exchanging is absolutely crisp and clean--or better yet, ask your bank specifically for brand-new bills.

— John Rybczyk
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Technology
390296

When overseas, I carry a "cheat sheet" that includes exchange rates and metric conversions. Currency conversions are available at oanda.com.

— Carol Vela
Tagged
Technology
564600

If you're even slightly tech savvy and have a cell phone that will work overseas, check with your service provider about the cost of text messages. Some carriers offer free incoming text messages, and several Internet search engines (Yahoo, MSN, etc.) will send free text-message "alerts" to your phone while you're away. Prior to your trip, log on and request that weather forecasts and news updates be sent to your number daily. Even if you never use your phone for costly overseas calls, you can receive up-to-the-minute information, in English, about your hometown or cities on your itinerary.

— Brian Mosteller
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Technology
470643

Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

— Rita Young
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Technology
404281

Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel
Tagged
Packing
353249

Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

— Marilyn Rogers
Tagged
Packing
414290

In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

— Erica Rounsefell
Tagged
Safety
422306

I don't go anywhere without individual packets of antibacterial wipes. I slip some in my carry-on, daypack, and shirt pocket. They're very convenient when you can't find any running water with which to wash your hands. And because they're antibacterial, they're also great for cleaning cuts, and the alcohol from the wipes helps stop the itching when you rub them on insect bites.

— Lawrence Brenner
Tagged
Hotels
425334

Cold-weather traveling means turning up the thermostat in your hotel room, and along with the artificially warmed air come dry skin and static electricity. Instead of turning on the heat, fill the bathtub with very hot water and leave the bathroom door open. In about an hour, your entire room will be warm and humidified.

— Susan Mutty
Tagged
Air Travel
358281

I always try to work out before heading to the airport. It usually gets me tuckered out enough that I can relax and sleep on the plane. If I don't have time for pre-travel exercise, I take a brisk walk through the terminal before boarding or find a quiet spot in an empty gate for a little yoga.

— Kimberly Gilbert
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Planning
358273

Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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Hotels
450338

If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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Planning
359288

If I plan to travel to several countries that use different currencies, I pack a few cloth change purses: U.S. dollars go into one, British pounds in another, euros in a third, etc. When I'm sightseeing, I carry only the money I need; the purses that I'm not using are locked away in the hotel safe. I avoid fumbling around in shops and mixing up coins that look alike. Plus,I always know exactly how much cash I have.

— Peg Welch
Tagged
Hotels
436329

On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

— Anita Rivera
Tagged
Hotels
427355

If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur

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