FEATURE

My Montreal Is Better Than Yours*

Once again, bloggers are having their way with Budget Travel: A.J. Kinik and Michelle Marek--who write a wonderful blog, "...an endless banquet"--show us all where to eat, shop, and play in the city that they obsess over better than anyone else.

The Buckminster Fuller Dome

(Frances Juriansz)

*Actually, it should really be "Our Montreal"

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Created by two local artists, FRAG on The Main is an ever-growing series of collage plaques mounted on buildings all along St-Laurent; it tells the story of The Main--from the Guilbault Garden to the Montreal Hunt Club--by uncovering its lost and hidden fragments.

The one tourist site that's truly central to Montrealers, both literally and figuratively, is Mount Royal Park, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. There's activity year-round, from jogging and cycling to skating, cross-country skiing, and tobogganing. It's also one of the best places to take a secluded path and escape from the hubbub. More serene still is the wonderfully Victorian Mount Royal Cemetery, which adjoins the park and doubles as a stunning arboretum.

Founded by Seagram's heir Phyllis Lambert, the Canadian Centre for Architecture has beautifully curated exhibitions, an internationally renowned architecture library, film screenings and lectures, and a top-notch bookstore.

The Lachine Canal, once the cradle of Canada's industrial revolution, is much quieter these days--it's been turned into a National Historic Site and green zone that stretches nine miles from the Old Port to Lake St-Louis to the west. There's certainly no better way to get from the Old Port to Atwater Market, Montreal's other celebrated farmers market, with its iconic deco market hall. Also along the canal is Papeterie Saint-Armand, a small-scale paper mill that's been producing fine papers for over 25 years. And when you're done touring the canal, the place for a refreshment is Paul Patates, where you can have an excellent all-dressed toasté (a grilled hot dog with the works), a poutine featuring the famous fries, and a bracing Bertrand spruce beer, the Quebecois soft drink extraordinaire.

On Île-Sainte-Hélène, known for the starring role it played during Expo 67, you can still see traces of Montreal's mod moment, like the Buckminster Fuller Dome, but it's also worth visiting to check out the Moorish towers that anchor the Jacques-Cartier Bridge to the island.

Cinémathèque Québécoise houses exhibitions and shows films from around the world, with provincial and Canadian works a specialty. Around the corner is the downtown home of the National Film Board of Canada, a leader in experimental, animated, documentary, and childrens' film production for almost 70 years. The main attraction there is the CinéRobothèque, where a full-fledged robot helps you watch any one of the 9,000 films made or distributed by the NFB. Aprés cinema, our top pick for a bite is a burger and a mocha shake at La Paryse.

Thankfully, the hype has died down a bit since Pitchfork, The New York Times, Spin, and others anointed Montreal the latest indie-rock "it" town, but we still have a vibrant music scene. In many ways, ground zero for this explosion of creativity was Casa del Popolo, a café, bar, and performance space that has added an annex across the street that includes a larger, more-glam venue (La Sala Rossa) and a good tapas restaurant (La Sala Rosa). Every June the owners celebrate their good fortune with Suoni Per Il Popolo, a monthlong festival pairing avant-jazz greats with local avant-rock heroes. Come autumn, Pop Montreal, our other indie music festival, rolls out plenty of good cheer, plus a film fest and an alt-crafts fair.

Two places that are all about the lazy days of summer are Le Bilboquet, where lines for the ice cream (in flavors like tire d'érable, maple-syrup taffy) stretch down the block, and Gibeau Orange Julep, where you can sample the house elixir in the shadow of a three-story orange built in 1964 (and in the company of hot rods on Wednesday nights).

Le Cheval Blanc and Bílý Kun (French and Czech for "white horse") are our two favorite Montreal watering holes. Both combine tasteful eclecticism with microbrew enthusiasm. And while the wine-bar population continues to grow rapidly, the best of the lot is still BU.

For those looking to dance, Zoobizarre's hilariously Gothic confines host rock shows and DJ nights by such local notables as Les Georges Leningrad and Ghislain Poirier, the city's reigning beatmaster.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
341239

Recycle the long plastic bags in which you receive your home-delivered newspapers. Slip your shoes into the bags before packing them in your suitcase.

— Robert E. Jones
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Hotels
426321

When I'm packing to leave a hotel room, I turn the bedding down to the foot of the bed so that the white sheets are facing up. This way, items placed on the bed are clearly visible. I once left a camera behind because I couldn't see it against a very dark bedspread.

— Fran Schaak
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Loyalty Programs
373256

After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Planning
369263

Save major bucks by going onto eBay and purchasing coupons and gift certificates that others don't want or can't use for lodging, transportation, food, and admissions. I've found great discounts for airline and Amtrak tickets; car rentals; entrance to amusement parks such as SeaWorld, Disney, or Universal Studios; as well as overnights at many hotels. For example, I bought a $30 savings coupon at SeaWorld for only $1. Simply search for your destination and then type in "coupon" or "gift certificate."

— Nathaniel V. Greenwood
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Planning
358294

About a month before leaving on vacation, I start clipping the crossword puzzles from the daily newspaper and pasting them into a blank notebook. The puzzles keep me occupied during my trip. The newspaper's crosswords are so much more interesting than the generic books of them you can purchase at the airport.

— Kathie Meyer
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Technology
399279

Tell me I'm not alone: Almost every time I park my car at the airport, I have trouble finding it when I return. (I even reported my car stolen once after searching for hours, only to discover I was in the wrong lot!) I now use my cell phone to leave myself a message as to where I've parked my car.

— Perry Babel
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Packing
473591

When traveling in the developing world, I always bring several packets of stickers to give to children. They're wonderful icebreakers.

— Linda Vogel
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Cruises
446604

Choosing a cabin is all about location, location, location. Check the ship's layout online before booking, and opt for a room with passenger floors above and below you. You don't want to try to sleep right under the disco, the casino, or the running track.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Family Travel
382246

Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there.

— Machelle McCoy
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Packing
382287

No longer do the many key chains I get as advertising languish in bureau drawers. I attach one or two at the ends of my luggage zippers. They make it easier to work the zippers and help me identify my luggage on airport carousels.

— Marie J. Kilker
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Shopping
381258

When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Technology
409316

Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet
Tagged
Hotels
424352

If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Loyalty Programs
367256

Sign up for guest programs at every hotel chain that offers one, even if you haven't stayed at that hotel before or think you may not travel enough to reap benefits from multiple stays. Some programs send coupons for discounted rooms or complimentary room upgrades just for being a member. After signing up for the Omni Hotels Select Guest program, I received a coupon that I was able to redeem for a room in Chicago for $80 per night.

— Allison Meyer
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Packing
361258

Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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Car Rentals
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When renting a car, photograph any damage the car may have before leaving the rental agency; a digital camera records the date and time of each picture. On a recent trip to Argentina, I rented a car with extensive paint damage. When I returned the car, the agency attempted to blame me for the scratches. I showed them my photographs, and they rescinded their accusations.

— Richard L. Garcia
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Packing
370258

A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Car Rentals
362255

Online check-in isn't just for airlines. After reserving an Alamo car over the Internet, I was offered online check-in just by entering my credit card number and driver's license information for approval. At the airport, following Alamo's instructions, I informed the shuttle-bus driver that I had checked in online and reserved an economy car. I was dropped off in the lot and told to pick whichever car I wanted. I drove it to the exit, where my credit card and driver's license were verified on the computer, and I was done.

— Brad Cook
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Hotels
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Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
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Air Travel
356253

The middle seat isn't always awful. On a recent trip overseas, I called too late to confirm an aisle or window seat. After explaining the plane's AB-CDEFG-HI configuration, the customer service agent urged me to take the very middle seat, E, because D and F have less foot room. (In some rows, there are metal boxes underneath the seats in front of you that house wiring for onboard electronics.) I went along with her advice somewhat skeptically, but I ended up with plenty of room. The people on either side of me weren't so lucky.

— Audrey Ting
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Packing
376249

I always pack several tea lights, a small vial of essential oils, and matches. Tea lights, when placed in a water glass for extra safety, banish stale or unpleasant smells in hotel rooms. The essential oils work wonders when a drop is placed on a warm lightbulb.

— Stephanie Hartselle
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Planning
371266

Play Let's Make a Deal when you're shopping for vacations at travel shows or expos. Go armed with your own research and a credit card.(You're likely to get a better price if you know what the vacation is worth, and if you're willing to buy it on the spot.) I picked two Caribbean cruises and headed to the New York Times Travel Show. After haggling with the competing cruise lines, I was offered the first cruise for $50 less than the best price I'd found online, and they threw in free trip insurance. In the end, I chose the second—$30 off with a free upgrade to a balcony stateroom—and truly got a bargain.

— Michael Marcarello
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Cruises
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Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Dining
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In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
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Hotels
423359

Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Dining
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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Packing
375251

Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

— Suzanne Prendergast
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Packing
353296

I used to lug around a clothes steamer and adapter to stay wrinkle-free while on the road, but I've since opted for something more low-tech. I now travel with a Platypus collapsible bottle and a spray bottle head. After checking into my hotel, I immediately hang my clothes and give them a spritz with water from the spray bottle. After several hours, the wrinkles fall out, and the clothing is dry and ready to wear.

— Dr. Cornelia Cho
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Packing
353265

Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Transportation
348262

Read the fine print on your rail pass. You can often use it to save money on other modes of public transportation. With a Scandinavian rail pass, for example, you'll pay less to ride the ferries. In Switzerland, a rail pass can get you free bus rides, as well as complimentary entrance to museums and discounts on funiculars and hotel accommodations.

— Jessica Lees

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