Insights From a Dumpling Expert

Q: What inspired you to search out and learn how to make dumplings from around the world?

A: I became excited when I saw so many people eating so many different--but similar--things. I always want to know how to cook foods I eat.

Self-Portrait of the author, Brian Yarvin (Brian Yarvin) [enlarge photo] A WORLD OF DUMPLINGS • Slide show and Recipe • Q&A with Brian Yarvin

Q: How did you come to define the word dumpling and what, if anything, unites the varied incarnations?

A: I chose the definition before I chose the "word" and was a bit concerned about the many dumplings that don't fit it. But the original topic was small food items that are wrapped in dough.

Q: What are some of the challenges and misperceptions about making dumplings?

A: Too many people just decide that they can't do it without even trying. It's not so hard!

Q: Could you share some memories of the places and neighborhoods you visited while working on the book? Where did you begin?

A: I began in my own home town of Edison, New Jersey. Here we have a wide variety of places to find dumplings; Chinese, Indian, and Latin American snack shops, a wider variety of grocery stores, some serious restaurants and a total absence of tourists.

Q: Are there certain markets and restaurants that you recommend in particular?

A: Almost every American city has big ethnic markets worth visiting these days and if they have attached snack bars, that's where I'd try first.

One Chinese dumpling restaurant that I love was never mentioned in the book because a kitchen fire closed it during while I was writing. It reopened soon after I sent in the manuscript: King's Village, 1639 State Route 27, Edison, NJ 08817, 732/339-9858.

I am a big fan of these sorts of places because their suburban location keeps the tourists away. Edison isn't very different than Flushing in the food that it offers, but face it; nobody (unless they're immigrants from India or China) comes here for a gastronomic visit.