Christopher Winner: I want to reiterate what I said before. This is not a strike per se. There are insufficient places to put the refuse, so it piles up. Concerned? No. It's not pleasant but it's been a problem since 2006.

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Naperville, Illinois: My husband, adult son, and I are planning a 12-14 day trip to Sicily in late December. (We live near Chicago.) We hope to see a decent amount but don't like to rush from town to town, site to site. Could you suggest an itinerary that would allow us to get a good feel for the island without losing our sanity? If possible, we'd like to rely on buses and trains to get us around. Thank you.

Christopher Winner: If you get to Palermo (where the airport is), you can easily take trains to Agrigento (a must; 2 hours) and Messina (3 hours). Catania is a bit harder, a longer haul (5 hours). Taormina, another must, is 4:30. It's hard to give you an itinerary because there are two Sicily's -- the coasts and inland. Inland you get villages so rugged and removed from notions of classic tourism that you might find yourself thinking you're in Asia. The are many towns with spectacular Greek and Roman ruins. Siracusa has an island peninsula, Ortigia, which is breathtaking. You might consider renting a car in Palermo and driving south to Agrigento, then east to Taormina, to Catania, then Messina, and along the coast back to Palermo. You have two weeks. It's perfectly feasible. I think Sicily better lends itself to car than train.

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Saddle Brook, New Jersey: Hi, Christopher. We would like to know of a villa, apartment or residence in Cefalu, Sicily for rent for a family of four. No date set, probably 2 weeks in July 2008. Two teenagers, two adults. From Newark airport, or jfk. Is it safe online for overseas booking? Thank you, Vince

Christopher Winner: Dear Vince: You probably know of thinksicily.com. There's also vrbo.com and sicilyrentals.com. Also: kefatour.com. My only advice is not to conduct the entire transaction online. Stop and call the owners or managers of those places you might be interested in. If they don't speak English, say "per favore inglese," and get them to find someone who does speak English. Look at previous guest comments. Sent up a direct email link between the renters and you, so you can see inside photos that aren't up on the Web. This is essential. Don't do anything on impulse.

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Walnut, CA: What is the best way to get from Rome to Civitavecchia?

Christopher Winner: From Rome central station (Termini), 15 departures daily. About 1 hour.

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Walnut, CA: What is the best way to get from Rome's airport to the center of town?

Christopher Winner: The LeonardoExpress train to Roma Termini main station. Every 20 minutes, 11 euros, about $15. This assumed you are arriving at Fiumicino (or Leonardo da Vinci airport). Ciampino is more complicated and a cab is more appropriate. Re cabs, see theamericanmag.com/article.php?show_article_id=670

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Centennial, Colorado: How can four hilarious friends, age 60 but in great shape, spend 10 days to two weeks touring Italy? We're not "beach people" but would like to do Venice, Tuscany, Pompeii, etc. We could leave out of Cincinnati in Sept. 2008. Tips please on getting around without a car but using local guides, if necessary. Thanks, Anne

Christopher Winner: Dear Anne: Sure. Fly into Venice, take the train south to Florence, then Rome and Naples. You can see Tuscany in day trips from Florence and Pompeii when in Naples. If you stick to four cities you don't need a car. I'd suggest you don't need a guide. You said it yourself: you're in great shape. Guides would cramp your hilarity.

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Marathon, FL: My husband and I are planning to spend a month in Italy during June, 2008. If we wanted to take a series of day trips from a fairly central location, what city and booking entity to find a rental home would you recommend?

Christopher Winner: Rome is still the most central place. But if you want a more rustic location, pick Orvieto or Florence, places that are nestled on major train routes. Otherwise you'll find yourself forced to change often or ride slow commuter lines. Regarding rentals see, homeinitaly.com, italyrentals.com, cottagestocastles.com, and slowtrav.com/italy. Shop around, compare, make calls.

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San Francisco, California: I am traveling to Naples and Salerno by cruiseship next month. What is the best way to experience the Amalfi coast in the short time I have in those two port cities (about six hours in each).

Christopher Winner: Six hours gives you little time to work with. I'm fairly sure your tour operator will offer city visits. That's the norm for short layovers. You might want to take them up on it, because doing it on your own you run the real risk of not making it back to the liner. Salerno's attraction is the port, so that's not difficult. Naples is a bit different, so see if can get an excursion to Ischia or Capri. Again, I strongly suspect the tour operator will have something set up -- probably so you can see Pompeii and Herculaneum. I'd normally suggest more, but south Italy can turn chaotic unexpectedly.

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Austin, Texas: Last October I went to Italy for the first time, visiting Venice, Florence, Orvieto (only a day), Rome, and Pompeii. I am planning a return trip, and I'd like to know your recommendations for a second trip to Italy. I'd like to see some coastal towns and smaller villages, too. Thanks!

Christopher Winner: Try driving from Pisa along the Tyrannean coast. Livorno to Orbetello (where you'll see the striking Monte Argentario promontory), then inland to Viterbo, southward to Lazio (Rome). Then it's on to the Campania coast that includes Anzio (site of the 1943 landings), Nettuno (where baseball was born in Italy, thanks to GIs playing in a cemetery), Gaeta (a naval base, but a nice town), then Naples and the Amalfi coast. The Adriatic coastal equivileltn (and remember, we're not talking about a California coast highway; it's more rugged) is to drive the eastern lane: Rimini, Pesaro, Ancona, Pescara. These are all small cities with rich, non-touristy attractions. Around them are tiny villages you'll literally bump into or hear of by word of mouth. The only way to successfully escape the tourist drag trip is to pick itineraries that consciously leave them out and discover an Italy that creeps up on you. Italy without a map, so to speak.

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Carmichael, CA: What's the best time of year to visit the Puglia region of Italy?

Christopher Winner: September into October; alternatively March before Easter. If you're doing back roads Puglia off-season is best, above all because of the summer heat and the number of establishments that shut down from July to the first week of September.

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Spencerport. NY: I will be arriving in Florence in late afternoon on a Monday this September (when many of the museums are closed). I will have all day Tuesday but then fly out on Wednesday morning. How should I organize my time to see the highlights?? Should I purchase tickets online before leaving to ensure getting into the museums without waiting on long lines and is there a better site for tickets?

Christopher Winner: Have a look at these three: weekendafirenze.com/bigphp/mus.php?skin=fi&mus=uffizi, florence-museum.com, and florenceart.it.
I'm not a devotee of such services -- I've always taken the "wing-and-prayer" approach --but if your time is limited you don't want to miss the chance to miss the Uffizi and the David. So try. At the same time, don't become obsessed with reserving. Many ask me about the Vatican Museum. While it's true that there can be long waits, few have actually been unable to enter because they failed to arrive early. I repeat my old mantra: Travel for pleasure, circulate for the joy of absorbing another culture. Don't apply North American time and efficiency standards to a country that doesn't play by those rules. If you do, you'll quickly become exasperated.

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Rochester, NY: I will be in Venice Sept 1-8 but then plan to rent a car and drive to the Dolomites for two days. I will then return to Venice to take the train to Florence. I hope to stay in the Castelrotto area northeast of Bolzano. Do you think this is a good base for touring the area? Also, when I leave and need to get back to Venice more quickly what is the better route - back to Cortina or west to Bolzano and the A22?

Christopher Winner: Castelrotto is lovely. It's very much Austrian Italy and is as good a small place as any to use as a base (see the town site castelrotto.org). You also get a more Teutonic version of Italy, which many miss because they focus on the center and south, omitting the great tufts of land that were once controlled by the Hapsburgs. The best directions (for your Venice return) are those furnished by locals, not me. The road through Cortina is probably a better choice than the A22, though not as direct. Remember, though, that there's no such thing as "driving" to Venice; instead, all car travel begins in Mestre.

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Minneapolis MN: We will be in the Pisa area for 2 weeks in mid-September. We enjoy hiking - are there particular places you'd suggest for day hikes in the area? And are there any "not in the guide books" things you'd suggest we see/do in Pisa or Lucca?

Christopher Winner: The state park near Pisa (Parco di Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli) is a strange, sandy, tree-filled marvel on the coast near Pisa. Composer Giacomo Puccini lived there. It's in the guidebooks, yes, but it's still in the raw. There's the Massaciuccoli lake and the forest around it. It's great hiking terrain and has herons -- a rare Italian sight (parks.it/parco.migliarino.san.rossore/Eiti.html). People marvel about Tuscany but rarely consider that a part of Tuscany is on the sea. It's Italy's narrowness that's not imagined. Nearby are Massa and Carrara, of marble fame.

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El Paso, Texas.: Is it possible for people with special needs to go on trips to the non touristic Italy--this in order to live and understand the local culture, people, gastronomy, etc? What would you suggest?

Christopher Winner: This is a tough question. There are hundreds of culinary tours to suit different palates and curiosity. I recommend you get in touch with an American, Wendy Holloway, who runs a B&B near Rome (slowtrav.com/cl/detail.asp?l=2796 or flavorofitaly.com/home.php. She's well-informed regarding these kinds of possibilities and of course is American, from Pittsburgh. There's no substitute for finding a personal contact and getting one insider's view. Wendy may in turn give you other suggestions. But she's a good place to start, since she's a fine cook. You'll never get an interesting personal food itinerary from a guide book. As generous as they are with information, they end up confusing you. Find a real soul to correspond with via email or by phone.

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Lambertville, New Jersey : My husband and I travel to Europe for 2.5 weeks next month (August) with our active teenage sons, arriving in Italy for seven nights, split between Monterosso in Cinque Terre for hiking and the sea and Rome for the classic sights. We want to pack lightly and blend in as much as possible. Are teens in Europe wearing polo shirts or T-shirts? Are shorts to-the-knee okay for entrance to most churches? Do they need long pants? We've traveled extensively on this side of the Atlantic, but it's a first trip for the boys to Europe. Any tips for teens are appreciated.

Christopher Winner: Teens in Italy look to me like teens in the States. No worries there. Italian pop culture borrows heavily from American trends. I'm old-school so I don't think shorts are appropriate in church. But I've seen others wear them. The churches once frowned on this but see that the times they are a changin' and have backed off. Have them bring at least a pair of long pants for any "formal" occasion that might come up. Also, bear in mind that while Italian teens (and young women) may seem ultra-casual, there are still more old fashioned cultural barriers behind the cool look. I wear a Lacoste shirt or something similar in summer and get away with it. Italians will never pressure you about what you wear but they're always pleasantly surprised by well-dressed Americans. It's your call.

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Watertown, MA: I am a 34-year old single woman from Boston who just bought a ticket to go to to Italy, first time, and my first time out of the country! I will be there October 9-17 and staying with friends who are living in Rome. But also want to go to Venice and Florence. Is this enough time? On a budget?! I have no idea about the trains, I've looked up some info and am a bit overwhelmed. Ok, a lot overwhelmed. My friends are going to Venice for two days while I'm there, but it's $1000 for 2 nights!!! That's more than my plane ticket. Or should I jsut spend all my time around Rome?

Christopher Winner: Ha! Stay absolutely calm. First, your friends will help you. Second, the trains are simple. The $1,000 two-night bill your friends are running up seems exorbitant to me (of course, there are hotels where you spend that for ONE night). You can get to Florence and back from Rome by Eurostar (fast train) for $80 (and stay the day). But here I go again: why not spend one lovely week in Rome (and add Florence) instead of hopping to Venice and getting yourself instantly travel-weary? Rome's worth a week. Add Florence (two nights in a small hotel should run you about $180/200, or less) and you have a nice stay. If you absolutely want to go to Venice, fine: It's a six-hour ride. You can probably find a cheaper hotel in Padua and get into the city from there. Whatever you do, don't panic. People are usually out to help, not undermine. Italians (though unpredictable) like to help and like women -- or the men do. Bottom line, you CAN do Rome, Florence, and Venice on a budget. A grand isn't necessary UNLESS the euro continues clobbering the dollar, something you need to check into as your dollar gets close to being valued at .50 euro cents.

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Alexandria, VA: I traveling solo to Rome for two days, and would like to know how I can make the best of the nightlife in this magnificent city? Are there any kind of restaurants, bars, etc where groups of people are known to strike up conversations with everyone around them? Thank you for your help.

Christopher Winner: If you look at the very bottom of our restaurant list theamericanmag.com/article.php?show_article_id=601 you'll find a section on "aperitivos" -- and I think the wine bars listed by Nicole Arriaga are an excellent place to meet and be met. Campo de' Fiori in Rome has itself become a giant wine bar, much to the chagrin of many. But you'll find wine bars, crowds, open-air restaurants... it's all there.

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Brooklyn, New York: What is the best way to travel from Venice to Rome? There are 3 couples and were will be traveling on 11/19/2007

Christopher Winner: Eurostar train. Six hours. Efficient and comfortable.

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Boston, Mass: I am having trouble finding suggestions for inexpensive decent restaurants in Venice. We would like to find places where dinner would not cost more than about 25 euro per person. All the suggestions seem to be for ciccheti or pizza. Please help.

Christopher Winner: The New York Times recently did a flattering piece (travel.nytimes.com/2007/07/01/travel/01Choice.html), but I can't say I agree with much that's in it. Good food is not a Venice strong suit, nor is inexpensive food. I've mostly given up and confine myself to pizzerias with wood-burning ovens ("forno a legno"). At least that minimizes the damage. So, my answer is catch-as-catch-can.

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Encinitas, CA: My husband and I are visiting Venice, Italy, for just a few nights in August 2007 before and after a RCI cruise. (August 18 and 19) With just a few days in Venice, what would you recommend we do?

Christopher Winner: Venice has an uncanny ability to tell you what to do. The space is so limited that you could easily spend two days wondering around the "calle" near St. Mark's and Rialto. I never miss taking the "vaporetto" to the island of San Michele. There, you'll find the cemetery where Stravinsky, Diaghilev and Pound are buried. It's deeply moving.

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Houston, Texas: I keep reading about the International Driver's License...it is needed; it is not needed. I have been traveling to Italy twice a year for almost 10 years and each time have rented a car. I have only been stopped once and had only my Texas license. Nothing was said to me at that time. Do we really need an international license? (Which I understand is not actually a license at all.) Grazie, Kyra

Christopher Winner: Dear Kyra: I could launch into a speech about this, but I won't. With a rental, your American license will get you through the day. The International License, while a silly piece of paper, nonetheless recognizes the validity of your U.S. license. If anything untoward happens, having one is helpful. Since you've been stopped and gotten away with flashing Texas, there's little I can tell you. Sometimes (as in all nations) it depends on the mood of those who stop you. The International License is a good-faith gesture that keeps you on the more honest side of things, though honesty isn't necessarily the lay of this land.

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Honolulu, HI: Can you steer me in the right direction in locating an Italian language school in Italy. Preferably in a medium sized city in Italy. I am looking for a school that has classes up to a month in length. The time of year is not as important. Perhaps you know a school with a good reputation, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Thanks

Christopher Winner: In Rome, the Dante Alighieri (clidante.it/inglese/default.htm). I would look into Perugia, in Umbria, which has an excellent university and some good language schools (comitatolinguistico.com). In fact, I'd advise you to learn Italian outside Rome. Cost, of course, depends on your pocket book. Once again, the weakness of the U.S. dollar works against you.

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Lake Forest, Illinois: My husband and I, along with another couple, will be traveling in Sicily from September 29-October 8. I am interested in locating safe areas away from traffic where we can rent bikes. Are there any bike paths suitable for "weekend warrior" cyclists?

Christopher Winner: See biketravel.net/english/sicily/estarts.shtml, 4real.co.uk/trips/Cycling-In-Sicily.html, hookedoncycling.co.uk/Italy/West%20Sicily/west%20sicily.html. Please research this carefully, since Sicily is not particularly bike-friendly. Most of what I've sent you ate tours. Why? Most people prefer to bike in groups.

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Broomes Island, MD: Hi. We travel to Italy often as my husband has family living in Trento and San Remo. My question is what would you say would be the best agency or airline to book a trip with since we normally look for great airfare on the internet? We have two small children under 4 who travel with us as well. Are there any tour operators that may have a child's discount? Thank You. Floraisa P.S.-We may be traveling in October from the Washington, D. C. area.

Christopher Winner: Dear Floraisa: There is no one best agency. You'll have to do the requisite trawling. But you can fly into Venice, which puts you I striking distance of Trento.

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Beaufort, North Carolina: Christopher, I'm an American university professor, and with my husband I will be in Europe from Oct. 1 - Dec. 18. (I work online - nice!) We'll be in Italy from Oct. 31 - Nov. 23. We plan 3-4 days in Cinque Terre, 4-5 in Florence and Rome each, 2-3 days in Bologna, and 8-10 days in a rural area close to medieval towns. We'll use a car only for the rural part.

--- For Florence, Bologna, and Rome, I'd like to find lodging at a university. Suggestions please.

--- Also, for All Saints' Day on Nov. 1, what kinds of closings and/or restrictions on travel, restaurants, etc. might we encounter? Thanks, Kay

Christopher Winner: Dear Kay: University lodging isn't as simple as it might sound. Bologna is feasible. The university there sprawls and has housing. But in Florence and Rome students attend day and night courses and live at home. There are no dorms. I'm honestly not sure that your plan, while intriguing, has easily accomplished solutions. The overall dilemma in Italy is housing -- not enough of it -- which is why hotel costs are so high. The demand is there. You could stay in religious spots. Those exist. But I'd still opt for a pensione. All Saints falls on Thursday, Nov. 1, which means it'll carry to Friday. But it's a religious holiday in a now secular, consumer-driven state. You'll find no major disruptions. Consider it a Sunday.

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Honolulu, HI: I am half Italian and would like to find out how I can go about getting information on purchasing a house in Italy. I am a US citizen. Ideally, I would like to focus on the Molise region of Italy. Do you know of an agency that assists US citizens in what I have been told is a complicated process of purchasing property. I really do not know details about how to start, and perhaps you can assist me. Thanks

Christopher Winner: It IS complicated. Have a look at these sites keyitaly.com/article/how-to-buy-in-italy) and le-marche.com/Marche/html/property.htm. They'll give you a sense of what you face. There are also books. See: amazon.co.uk/Complete-Guide-Buying-Property-Italy/dp/0749441518/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_b/203-0305619-4948702. Finally, here's a cautionary tale from novelist Linda Lappin: theamericanmag.com/article.php?show_article_id=607. I don't think this is something you can seriously undertake without living in Italy first -- even if it's only an extended visit.

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Leesburg, Virginia: Hi, my husband and I are planning our third trip to Italy. This time we've rented and apartment on the seafront in Castiglione Della Pescaia. On our last trip we spent one day in CDP and loved it. Our last trip was in the area south of Siena. We spent 2 days at the hot springs San Giovanni Rapolano Terme-such a nice facility and very new. Can you reccomend a terme near CDP? I know about Saturnia but it is 2 hours away--do you know something closer and similar to Rapolano Terme? One more thing--my husband wants to go out on a fishing boat but all the websites are in Italian--any suggestions? I do speak a bit of Spanish and that helps us a lot as we enjoy getting off the "tourist path". Really excited about exploring the Etruscan sites. Thank you, Jane

Christopher Winner: Dear Jane: For fun, see Chianciano and Montecatini. I have a quiet favorite in Bagno Vignoni (ctnet.it/vignoni/uk-index.htm). Also see, enit.it/terme.asp?lang=UK. The fishing boat rental has me stumped. There are plenty of luxury rentals, but the offhand journey your husband seeks you can only negotiation in close quarters in a port -- preferably with an Italian middleman who's on your side.

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Santa Monica, Calif.: We will be staying in Lucca for 2 weeks (end of Sept). Do you have any suggestions for day trips and/or any suggestions for Lucca?

Christopher Winner: Lucca gives you the opportunity to get to the Pisa and the Etruscan coast. You can also head to Florence and all the adjoining medieval towns. Honestly, it's an abundance of riches. Lucca itself is worth several days, with its perfect walls and pristine center.

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Sacramento, California: We're going to Italy next May for about 3-1/2 weeks and trying to do everything by train (and a bus or 2). Is it reasonable to go to Lake Como for a couple of nights on the trip from Venice to Milan (to depart Milan back to U.S)? Or is there someplace more interesting for a first time visitor between those 2 cities? Also, are public tennis courts readily available in Rome/Florence/Tuscany and can one rent or borrow (or buy inexpensively) racquets/shoes/etc if there are courts available?

Christopher Winner: Getting camping and leisure equipment on the fly is MUCH MORE DIFFICULT in Italy than the States. Camping is not as traditional. Also, renting articles of clothing is uncommon. Italy was poor until 50 years ago. Clothes are private. They belong to you alone. As for your trip, you have the country to yourself in 25 days. Any itinerary works. Como is pleasant, so are all the other lake towns (Garda and Maggiore are also very worthwhile, Maggiore for its green-thumb sprawl). You might want to cross the border into Switzerland to see Lugano.

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Portland, Maine: Hi! My sister is graduating college in May 2008 and for years we have said we were going to visit Tuscany. For a graduation present I am paying for her trip with me to Tuscany in the summer of 2008. I was hoping you would have some suggestions on great places off the beaten track to visit and perhaps some budget accommodations or suggestions on the best time to visit (I know summer is the most expensive, but it will probably be the most convenient for both of us). She will be 22 and I will be 25 so we would love to explore some fun nightlife as well as the beautiful countryside. Thanks so much for any help or guidance you can offer!

Christopher Winner: If you're traveling in the summer, try late June. No later. Florence night life is easier to find because of the high student population. You'll find less of that in the smaller towns and cities (Siena, for example). Tuscany is half the size of Maine so you really can't go wrong choosing a jump-off point. I'm a little taken aback when I hear "off the beaten track" because these regions are so dense -- small towns within 10 miles of one another -- that I don't sense anything forbidden or unvisited. Unless you head to Sardinia, the deep south, or Sicily. Get a map of Tuscany out, close your, eyes, let your finger fall on a spot. Then, hang out in that town, or the nearest one.

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Orlando, FL: We will be in Italy on our honeymoon from Ocotber 8th - 22nd. So far our itinerary is fly into Venice stay for a couple of days and then go to Cinque Terre, Florence and then Rome. Would you recommend trying to fit anything else in the itinerary or is that enought for that many days? I hear the Lake Como is amazing but I think it may be too cold in October and I am not sure Cinque Terre is the best option either in terms of weather - would Capri or Portofino be a better option? Could you also give one affordable restaurant recommendation for each city we have on our itinerary? thank you for any feedback you can give!

Christopher Winner: Venice, Cinque Terre, Florence, and Rome are MORE THAN ENOUGH for 13 days. Trust me. In fact, since Cinque Terre is Liguria, I'd do Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples, and the Amalfi coast, including Capri. Cinque Terre demands you move across the widest part of the country, east to west.

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Clinton Township, Michigan: What is the best way to find an apartment to rent in the Amalfi coast area for a month?

Christopher Winner: See amalficoastrental.com/eng/default.php, amalfirentals.com, altracostiera.com, villas-in-amalfi.villeinitalia.com. There are others, of course. My only practical suggesting is to make a direct connection via phone. Do NOT trust the Internet implicitly. Chat with the company or the owner.

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Wareham, Massachusetts: Travelling to Tuscany May 2, 2008 for one week and spending the next week in Positano. 4 women in their 40's and 50's. I would like a suggestion for a special winery/luncheon tour around the Poggibonsi area. Also, it is a 50 year birthday celebration vacation for one of us (not me). Something unforgettable in the Positano area please. Thanks, Lynne

Christopher Winner: Dear Lynn: See divinacucina.com/code/poggibonsi.html. Call them. Get to the source.

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Clay New York: We are going to Sicily in late September. Any suggestions on "don't miss" items. We have a car and a house in Nota Marina and would like to see as much as possible in 18 days. Should we try to ferry over to Northern Africa?

Christopher Winner: Obviously, Taormina and Agrigento. Also, the Aolian Islands, in particular Stromboli with its muscular volcano. Erice. Etna (another tough volcanic customer). I like Siracusa for its ancient history (port) connection. And no, I do not advise North Africa. That's for another time. It's another cultural tripwire. Stick to one. Sicily is not Italy. It's different, unique, and deserves your full attention.

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Port Murray, New Jersey: I would like to schedule some daily tours while in Milan (July 21 - July 27) and Rome (July 28 - Aug 2). I am unsure if the tours that I have come across online are reputable tour companies. The two I am currently looking at i Viator and Zani Viggi Daily Tours. How do I know if they are reputable tours? Can you suggest others that would be? This is our first time abroad and most of the time in Milan my husband has to work and I am on my own, in Rome we will both be touring. Thank you, Deb

Christopher Winner: Dear Deb: It's unfair of me to judge that which I don't know, and I don't know these two companies. Alpitour is strong alpitour.it/vacanze/italia_mare/index.asp. SlowTravel is also reputable: slowtrav.com/italy/planning/group_tours.asp -- in terms of information. Also see: trafalgartours.com/USA/Destinations/travel_italy.asp. How do you know if they're reputable? Well, being large and established helps. But there's no substitute for personal experience, so send messages to friends all around asking them to chip in with their experience.

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Livermore, CA: My husband and I are visiting Italy in late September for one week. We would prefer not to go to Rome or Florence, but instead focus on Tuscany. We are flying into Pisa, and we will have a car. Please give us your recommendations for leisurely touring and enjoying the countryside. Should we include Cinque Terra? Any accommodations or dining that you could suggest would be appreciated also. Thank you! Brenda and Steve

Christopher Winner: Dear Brenda and Steve: Cinque Terre takes you off the beaten track, north from Pisa toward Liguria and Genoa. I'd avoid that and bury yourself in Tuscany and Umbria. You only have a week. Drive, drive, drive. It's not difficult to find town lodging if you get lost. Just remember to avoid driving at night, since Tuscany turns very dark, very fast, with lighting only on major arteries.

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Denver, CO: Can you buy the tickets to the vatican and other attractions ahead of time to avoid long lines?

Christopher Winner: In Rome, the answer is mostly no. You have to wait your turn at the Vatican. As for the rest of the city, the lines are never impossible.

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Christopher Winner: Thanks so much for all your questions. I wish I could answer them in the detail they deserve, but time simply doesn't permit. The Internet is a great tool. Increasingly, small Italian towns are starting bilingual sites. Don't be daunted by not speaking Italian because some recommendations are obvious in any language. Bear in mind that Web trawling is no substitute for direct contact. Since phoning Italy from the North American is more inexpensive than ever, don't ever hesitate to call the "pensione" or hotel where you've booked a room. Or if you're considering hiring an interpreter you've found on the Web (or are contracting for any service, for that matter), call them first. Don't ever be afraid to ask questions. Italians enjoy trying to speak English -- it's taught in all schools. You may well be doing people a professional favor by making an effort to communicate with them. Remember not to apply American standards of instant satisfaction and customer service to Italy. You'll be disappointed. Cultures are different. Italy is more approximate in the promises made to consumers. So keep that in mind. Enjoy a beautiful country without insisting on your back-home standards. It helps with the experience. Don't be exasperated if a strike throws your best laid plans off a bit. You'll still have a good time. One of the joys of Italy well-lived is that it can help with lowering your stress levels. Try to go with the flow (so long as you don't wear old T-Shirts to nice restaurants). I recommend you read our site from time to time because it's written by Americans who live here (theamericanmag.com). Their views can be helpful. Good luck to all of you.