BUZZ WORTHY

The Next Croatia

The former Yugoslavia has one more secret up its coast: Montenegro is a newly independent country that's small in size, but big on the next-destination map.

I was sitting on a Croatian beach a few years ago, staring in amazement at the glorious Adriatic Sea, when my traveling companion said, "If you think this is beautiful, you should see Montenegro someday." That day finally arrived this summer, when my friend Leslie and I decided to celebrate her birthday with a trip to the small country north of Albania and south of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

If you haven't already heard, Montenegro is the latest hotspot in the former Yugoslavia. Second-home buyers and investors have been pouring money into the country since it declared independence from Serbia last year. High-end hotel company Amanresorts is even restoring the resort island of Sveti Stefan (see this issue's cover). But as we discovered on our journey along the coast, you don't need to spend a fortune to visit Montenegro.

Locals are certainly excited about the country's possibilities. "Could you help me market my business in America?" asks our taxi driver as he speeds along a narrow road toward Boka Kotorska, the T-shaped fjord between Monte-negro's coast and its interior. Our first stop is Kotor, a medieval town pressed against craggy mountains on the right arm of the Boka.

After spending the night at the Hotel Marija, a former palace with rooms that face the mountains, Leslie and I hike to the 14th-century Fortress of St. Ivan. Kotor's narrow streets have yet to catch the morning sun, so there's a slight chill in the air as we begin to scale the 1,350 stone steps to the top. On the hill, vibrant red poppies attract butterflies that flutter around our feet, and we can see the blue-green fjord stretching away from the city's labyrinth of alleys.

In Kotor, all roads lead either to the main Square of Weapons or to St. Tryphon Cathedral, which is adorned with cream-colored Korcula stone pillars. We stop for lunch at City Caffé Pizzeria near the church. (Montenegro's culinary mainstays are pizza, pasta, risotto, and grilled fish.) Then we pop into the Maritime Museum for a look at Kotor's seafaring past. The Boka Marine, a fraternity founded over 1,000 years ago, is responsible for much of the museum's collection of medieval maps, gleaming cutlasses, and Japanese ivory figurines.

The next morning is cool and gray. We pay less than $2 each and board a minibus for a day trip to Perast, 30 minutes down the fjord. The bus drops us off in a square lined with Venetian Gothic buildings, all in various stages of renovation. Perast's main attraction is Our Lady of the Rock, a jewel box of a church built on an island. Silver bas-relief squares cover the church's walls, and a museum displays antique compasses next to pietà tapestries.

That night, we have drinks at Cittadella, a café with views of Kotor. Reclining on white-cushioned chairs, we order a bottle of Vranac, a light red wine that reminds me of Beaujolais. As night falls, the city's walls are illuminated by spotlights, creating a chain of light up the mountain. Leslie notices that a new portico is being erected nearby. Things are literally being built before our eyes.

I don't realize just how quickly the country is being redeveloped until we head for the resort town of Budva. Bracing myself for a twisting bus ride over steep mountains, I'm surprised when we shoot through a newly constructed tunnel and within minutes enter Budva. A group of workmen is cutting into an ancient olive grove, revealing the gnarled roots of a tree. The next morning, the tree has disappeared, and a length of crimson earth runs along the road, like a slice of red velvet cake.

The village of Sveti Stefan, which overlooks the island of the same name, is just a few miles south of Budva. We check in to the Vila Drago, a six-room pensione, and gaze at the island's red-tiled roofs and cypress trees from our balcony. Like much of the Dalmatian Coast, Sveti Stefan and Budva were part of the Venetian Republic. The architectural similarities to Dubrovnik and Korcula are unmistakable.

We put on our bathing suits and walk to the red-sand beach. The water feels so good that we're not even tempted by a vendor's chocolate-covered fried dough balls. Clouds roll down the mountaintops, and we can hear claps of thunder as we lay in the sun.

The following morning, we take the Olimpia Express bus into Budva. After an earthquake destroyed much of the town in 1979, it was completely reconstructed and is now packed with restaurants and "ye olde" stores: Even the sex shop has a hand-carved wooden sign. Before catching the bus to Sveti Stefan, we have dinner at Jadranska Straza, a quiet spot known for its excellent squid-ink risotto and shrimp.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Before traveling to any city, do a search on the Internet of the city name and the word "coupon" ("New Orleans coupon"). You will find many sites offering two-for-one, percentage-off, and dollar-off discounts. On a recent trip to St.Louis, we saved $100 at restaurants and attractions.

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Easily packable, local specialty foods make great gifts for family and friends at home. At the huge Safeway in Kihei, Maui, we found a great selection of chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and Kona coffee beans in elegant gift boxes for far cheaper than in tourist-oriented shops. European grocery stores abound with gift ideas: British teas, French mustards and vinegars, and Italian olive oils are just a few examples. Just bear in mind that meats, produce, and other fresh items are a customs no-no.

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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

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When traveling with your kids, give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary.

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We always e-mail our itinerary--including flights, hotels, and confirmation numbers--to ourselves and to family members. If our luggage is lost or our wallets are stolen, all of this essential information is just an Internet café and a few quick clicks away.

— Courtney Fuller
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When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

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On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

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Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

— Chris Giaimo
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

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Photography
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When my husband and I visit places like India or Thailand, we pack only one extra change of clothes. When we arrive, we hit a local market and buy local attire--woven shirts, saris, sarongs, etc. Not only does this make packing easier, but we get a better cultural experience and end up with lots of wearable souvenirs!

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— Cindy Rucker
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Make your cabin homier by packing a small collapsible vase and a bouquet of flowers.

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Using your frequent-flier miles, you might be able to visit two cities on one ticket. For example, my wife and I always trade in our Delta miles when we visit our daughters in Dallas and San Francisco. Because we have to fly through Dallas to get to San Francisco on Delta, we can stop over in Dallas for as long as we want before continuing on to San Francisco—and we use only one frequent-flier ticket each.

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My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

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When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

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If your travels take you to U.S. cities large enough to have museums, zoos, and/or botanical gardens, consider buying a membership in your home city's counterpart. Many have reciprocal privileges with institutions elsewhere. A membership at Chicago's Lincoln Park Zoo, for example, lets you see the National Zoo in Washington, D.C., and zoos in Los Angeles, Des Moines, and Jackson, Mississippi, at no charge.

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Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

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When traveling with my kids, I bring a Ziploc bag that includes four things: Benadryl, children's ibuprofen, one of those little medicine cups, and a thermometer. This all-purpose kit will help with minor ailments, or treat a more serious flu until you can get to a doctor. Best of all, it saves Dad from driving around at 2 a.m. looking for an all-night pharmacy.

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Just before a trip to Spain, I emailed myself a list of addresses of the friends and family I might want to email while away. At a cybercafe, I was able to simply cut and paste the list into the address line of a new message.

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Put a few plastic trash bags in the outer pockets of your suitcases and carry-ons. If you arrive at your destination and it's raining, you can cover your luggage with the bags while you make your way to your hotel. Just cut a slit for handles or straps.

— Barbara Gesse
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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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If your children are old enough to dress themselves, consider this packing tip: Put each outfit (including socks and underwear) into a Ziploc bag and pack one bag for each day you'll be on vacation. It will save both time and aggravation, and may even prevent items from getting left behind.

— Robert E. Jones

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