A little bit of planning would have set the stage for more adventure. We might have flown to Quito, picked one region of the country to explore, and traveled with trekker's backpacks instead of wheelie bags. Our trip was like radical free jazz, the stuff that sounds frenzied and chaotic to most people. In hindsight, I guess we prefer jazz that builds off a recognizable structure or melodic theme. It's more user-friendly, but no less full of creative possibilities--as long as you know how to improvise.
Lodging
  Susan pondering an alpaca sweater in Saquisilí (Susan Shepard) |
Hostal Charles Darwin Quito, 011-593/2223-4323, ecuanex.net.ec/hostal_darwin, $37
Hostal La Posada del Arte Baños, 773/572-8810 (U.S.), posadadelarte.com, from $28
Four Points by Sheraton Guayaquil, 011-593/4269-1888, fourpoints.com, from $80
Food
Rincón La Ronda Bello Horizonte 400 y Almagro, Quito, 011-593/2254-0459, rinconlaronda.com, humita $2.50
Café Good 16 de Diciembre y Luis A. Martínez, Baños, 011-593/3274-0592, ham sandwich $2.50
Este Café Juan León Mera N23-94 y Wilson, Quito, 011-593/2254-2488, estecafe.com
Kallari E4-266 Wilson y Juan León Mera, Quito, 215/297-0240 (U.S.), 011-593/2223¿6009, kallari.com
Activities
Las Piscinas de la Virgen Av. Juan Montalvo, Baños, $2
Luna Runtun Caserío Runtun Km. 6, outside Baños, 011-593/3274-0882, lunaruntun.com, hour massage $36
Mitad del Mundo 10 miles north of Quito, $5
Museo de Sitio Inti-ñan admission (with bilingual tour) $3
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