Winston-Salem, N.C.: Where should we retire in Belize? We love being in town as well as being in the country by ourselves. On the average how many hurricanes do they have a season?

AnneLise Sorensen: The question might be: Where not to retire in Belize? The weather is uniformly balmy across the country, and towns and villages are liberally sprinkled from north to south, so even if you choose to be "away from it all," gelling in a hammock and communing with the toucans, you're rarely more than a couple of hours from a village with all the necessities—accommodation, banks and Internet, a chilled Belikin beer.

To give you further perspective: As of July 2007, Belize's population was just shy of 300,000. That's low—think of it this way: The entire country has the population of a mid-sized Central American town—and it feels like one. In Belize, six degrees of separation is more like three degrees—families have been intermingling for generations, which has given rise to a powerful sense of community. Add to this the stable Belize dollar, and relatively low land and housing prices, and it's easy to see why Belize is increasingly on the radar for retirees. One option for folks in their twilight years is the casual Corozal, in the north. The breezy, agreeable town sits near the mouth of the New River, surrounded by sugarcane fields, and hums with a lively mix of Caribbean-meets-Mexican culture, as it's just twenty minutes from the Mexican border. (Note, however, that Corozal recently received quite a beating from Hurricane Dean—see my further answer below.) You might also look into Punta Gorda, in the south, and San Ignacio, in the west. For more on retiring in Belize, check out the helpful belizeretirement.org, compiled by the Belize Tourism Board.

Your question about hurricanes is a timely one, as it's hurricane season right now, and the entire Belizean coast is currently under alert due to Hurricane Dean. We're keeping our fingers crossed. One thing to keep in mind is that each season (which lasts from late June through November) is a wholly different story. In the past, thankfully, most severe storms have followed a track well to the north of Belize. That said, if a hurricane does hit, Belize has excellent warning systems in place and a network of shelters. Note that if you're on the cayes or the coast, and a hurricane is developing anywhere in the Caribbean, you should be prepared to leave. It's also a good idea to keep track of developing storms—try belizenet.com/weatherix.shtml.

_______________________

Fullerton, Calif.: What is/are the best, safest and most economical ways to travel from the airport at Belize City to Ambergris Caye?

AnneLise Sorensen: The easiest way to travel from the International Airport to Ambergris Caye is by flying; Maya Island Air (501/226-2435) and Tropic Air (501/226-2012) operate frequent flights, at least hourly, from 7:30am to 5pm. The cost is generally around $60, and flight time is about half an hour. Note that flights also operate from the Municipal Airport, just north of the city center, for about $10 less. Water taxis, which depart from the Marine Terminal to Ambergris Caye, are cheaper than flights, but if you figure in the cost of getting from the International Airport to the Marine Terminal, then flying is your best bet, both time- and money-wise.

_______________________

New York, N.Y.: Hi. My friend and I (we're both in our late thirties) are going to Belize for two weeks. We're spending two nights in Belize City, at the beginning and the end of our trip. We'd like to try out the local cuisine at a good restaurant. Where do you recommend?

AnneLise Sorensen: Belize City is brimming with restaurants, from local haunts with the daily specials scrawled on a blackboard to genteel, candle-lit spots featuring French fare. When in Belize, though, you're right to eat Belizean, which is a distinctive cross between Caribbean and Latin American—white rice heaped with red beans, fresh seafood enveloped in creamy coconut milk. New on the city's cuisine scene is Faiyah Haat (Creole for "fire hearth"), at 164 Newtown Barracks (tel. 223-2865). Here, local chef and entrepreneur Mark Usher aims to serve up "the best in Belizean food—and in Belizean arts and entertainment." He's successful on both counts. As they say in Creole—and on the cheeky menu—"So com een, siddown and loose dat deh pants button." Enjoy the daily happy hour (5-8pm) on the outdoor deck strung with colored lights and then dig in to superb specialties, including guava jelly pork chops and blackened fish fillet with cajun spices. Afterwards, stay on for the entertainment, which ranges from poetry nights, karaoke, and, on Saturday, "Laaf til yo cry wid backyaad theata."

When Belize's steamy climate calls for al fresco dining, head to the Smoky Mermaid (13 Cork St, tel. 501/223-4759) where you can sit amid the gnarled roots and heavy branches of native trees—breadfruit, soursap, mango—and a gurgling mermaid fountain, with the all-white, colonial Great House hotel looming in the background. Try the grilled fish and seafood dishes, including the catch of the day crusted with shredded Yuca, and "Naked Lobster," lightly steamed lobster tail served with a garlic or butter sauce. The Smoky Mermaid is also a pleasant spot for an evening cocktail, either at the bar (with tree stumps for stools) or in the upstairs Budda Bar, where you can recline on low couches to the sounds of the wind rustling through the fan palms.

And for adventurous eaters: Sink your teeth into the local delicacy of gibnut, a rodent that tastes like succulent pork. (You'll often hear it called "royal rat," because it was served to Queen Elizabeth when she visited the former colony—to the great consternation of her UK brethren across the pond.) A number of restaurants serve gibnut (usually just one day of the week, so call ahead) including the perennially popular Macy's (18 Bishop St, tel. 501/207-3419), a low-frills, friendly eatery with plaid tablecloths. Also try Bird's Isle Restaurant, which sits on Bird's Isle, at the south end of Regent St (tel. 207-6500). Here you can relax under a thatched roof by the sea, and enjoy nicely priced Belizean fare, like grilled conch, stewed chicken, plantains and, on Saturdays, a boil-up, a one-pot stew of root vegetables and chicken or beef (and a pig tail for flavor). The friendly Bird's Isle is a community-oriented place—you'll spy wooden signs sporting buck-up aphorisms ("If you think education is expensive, check out ignorance") and the neighbourhood kids are encouraged to stop in and use the adjoining basketball court. See if you can catch one of the spirited evening games between local teams.