LANDSCAPE

Madrid's Hot New 'Hood

A little over a decade ago, Chueca was one of the city's most run-down neighborhoods; now it's one of the most fashionable.

French chic at H.A.N.D. (David del Campo)

A former hangout for Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly, Museo Chicote has been in business since 1931 and famously stayed open through the Spanish Civil War. Today, it's one of Madrid's top cocktail bars, with wood paneling, green leather chairs, and walls lined with photos of its celebrity clientele. Gran Vía 12, 011-34/91-532-6737, museo-chicote.com, cocktails from $11.

The newest addition to the Room Mate Hotel brand is Oscar, which opened this fall. Interior designer Tomás Alía is behind the avant-garde look, with rooms that range from the relatively tame (except for the erotic wallpaper) to the futuristic (one resembles the inside of a lava lamp). Plaza Vázquez de Mella 12, 011-34/91-548-8548, room-matehotels.com, from $116.

Madrileñas flock to H.A.N.D.-Have a Nice Day for their French fashion fix. Owners Thierry Bonafé and Stephane Tremoulet travel to Paris every three weeks to stock up on feminine skirts and blouses with poufed sleeves and floral motifs by Stella Forest, Paul & Joe, and Les Petites, among other designers. Hortaleza 26, 011-34/91-521-5152.

By day, the small marble tables at Mama Inés Café are populated by locals who sip café con leche while talking intensely or reading the free newspapers and magazines. By night, the long and narrow room--with a maroon ceiling, avocado walls, and lots of exposed brick--attracts passersby from outside the neighborhood, who stop in for una copa de vino after a day of shopping. Hortaleza 22, 011-34/91-523-2333, mamaines.com.

A popular chain of tapas bars, Lateral is modern and upscale without the prices to match. The menu is stocked with traditional dishes such as jamón ibérico, a ham made from the acorn-fed pigs of Andalusia. The Chueca outpost is next door to the Mercado de Fuencarral, a mall with three levels of funky tees and vintage jewelry. Fuencarral 43, 011-34/91-531-6877, tapas from $4.

Fundación Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero sells more than 200 brands of Spanish olive oils. Olive oil is classified by olive variety--at last count, there were 262--and region; most are produced in Andalusia. The L'Estornell Quincentenary, made from arbequina olives grown on 500-year-old trees, is one of the store's most exquisite olive oils ($52 for one liter). Mejía Lequerica 1, 011-34/91-308-0505, pco.es.

Cacao Sampaka is a high-end chocolate shop with an assortment of both traditional flavors--hazelnut, milk chocolate, raspberry--and more off-the-wall innovations, such as black olive. There's also a café in the back. Orellana 4, 011-34/91-319-5840, cacaosampaka.com, box of 16 chocolates from $12.

In summer, you can smell the sweet aroma of La Abeja Egipcia from a block away. The shop specializes in products derived from bees, including more than 30 varieties of honey. Owner Eva González Cobos can explain the medicinal properties of her honeys, like one with rosemary for clearing up colds. Fernando VI 8, 011-34/91-319-6170, laabejaegipcia.com, honey from $6.

The whimsical ballerina flats and kitten heels on display at Mónica García incorporate bows, tufts of fur, and floral motifs. The tiny store is easy to miss--down a set of stairs on the northern side of Piamonte--but worth seeking out. Piamonte 19, 011-34/91-319-9069, monica-garcia.com, from $190.

Businessmen and fashionistas like Kikuyu for its light Mediterranean fare and minimalist interior, including black slate floors and blond wood chairs. The queso de cabra (goat cheese) is served with a pile of caramelized onions, atop peasant bread; it's a massive dish that is easily shared by a table of four. The inventive entrées include a paella made with black rice, shrimp, and baby squid. Bárbara de Braganza 4, 011-34/91-319-6611, kikuyu.es, entrées from $17.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Packing
343275

I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

— Linda Steven
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Technology
406309

To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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Planning
355276

When planning a vacation, we send away for brochures from major tour operators. They provide hotel and restaurant recommendations and sightseeing itineraries, which we then duplicate on our own. Use this trick to mimic the vacation packages of high-end tour operators for what can turn out to be a fraction of the cost.

— Raymond White
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Packing
493554

If you plan to visit a theme park, always bring a few sandwich-size Ziploc bags. They'll protect your cell phone and wallet when you're riding on flumes and other water attractions.

— Jack Bell
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Photography
371266

I travel with two cameras: a digital SLR for the majority of my shots, and a small disposable camera for when I ask strangers to take pictures of me. As much as I tend to trust other people, I'm not ready to hand over my $1,000 camera to someone I don't know at all.

— Sam Antonio
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Family Travel
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Want to visit museums with your children without the boredom and tears? Go to the gift shop first and buy postcards of the museum's most famous works. Have your kids treasure hunt for these masterpieces. When you get home the postcards can go right into your trip album.

— Daphna Woolfe
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Packing
409292

Travel soap dishes--the colorful plastic ones that have hinged lids--stop small, fragile items from getting damaged or lost in your bags. I can easily label and use them again and again and again.

— Revon Wolf
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Packing
413591

If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

— Rebecca Oberg
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Car Rentals
347262

I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

— Tamara Johnson
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Shopping
364258

When you're shopping for alcohol on any Caribbean island, ask if there's a Kmart nearby. Often the dis- counter is a short distance from the docks where the cruise ships tie up and has an extensive selection at prices lower than the liquor stores on the main drag. While you're there, pick up that extra roll of film or the sunscreen you forgot.

— Andrea Mansfield
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Planning
356251

If you're divorced and plan to travel out of the country with your children, check the legal requirements in advance. When I tried to take my kids to Cancun, I learned too late that Mexico requires a notarized letter of consent signed by both parents for minors traveling alone or with one parent or guardian. If the parents are divorced, a copy of the parental custody agreement is allowed instead. The airlines enforce this rule before you get on the plane.

— Marge Stratton
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Packing
411278

My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

— Wendy Barr
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Packing
381304

Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks
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Air Travel
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Don't settle for the first answer to your travel question. If you need flight information, it's a good idea to phone the airline more than once and ask the same question. Recently, I wanted to see if I could fly standby on an earlier flight the same day. The first time I called, I was told that the earlier flight was booked. The second time, however, an agent said there were in fact seats available, and I could certainly fly standby. In the end, not only was I able to get on the flight, but I was upgraded to first class.

— Lynn Babcock
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Packing
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I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

— Margot Johnson
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Car Rentals
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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Cruises
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It's easy to lose track of time in a windowless interior cabin. Before going to sleep, tune into the ship's bridge-camera channel for real-time videos of the front (or bow) of the boat. The screen will act like a virtual porthole, and you'll rise and shine with the sunrise.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Hotels
443352

I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Packing
432624

Before I visit poorer countries, I pop into a thrift store and pick up some toys, stuffed animals, and an old suitcase or carryall. I try to avoid toys like Easter bunnies or Santas, which could be offensive, and expensive things that might embarrass parents. The contents of my extra bag bring joy to countless kids who have never had a thing.

— Ingrid Newkirk
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Air Travel
376280

We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

— Martin Vasquez
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Packing
356265

Pick just two colors to mix and match throughout your trip. You'll cut down on luggage, not least because you won't have to bring a bunch of shoes to match a wide assortment of colors.

— Lori Fields
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Planning
351276

Some international airlines still give passengers a goody bag that includes a toothbrush, an eye mask, and socks for the flight. Keep those socks: They're handy when visiting temples in Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia, where you must remove your shoes before entering. I slipped on the socks and my feet stayed both clean and warm!

— Nancy Easterbrook
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Hotels
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Before you buy expensive bottled water from your hotel room minibar, head to the fitness center. You'll be able to fill up an empty bottle at the gym's water cooler or fountain for free, and you don't need to break a sweat.

— Amanda Geraci
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Photography
368281

I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

— Betty L. Cox
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Technology
378282

My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

— Maria B. Murad
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Dining
387268

Deli counters in grocery stores are great mealtime alternatives to restaurants or fast-food fare when you're exploring the United States. The food is fresh, there's a big variety (hot and cold), and economically, it's a great break. I recently had a complete hot meal, including beverage, for $3 from a grocery-store deli.

— Teresa G. Barcus
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Safety
443303

Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment.

— Cindy Nguyen
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Photography
362268

Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

— Matthew Richard
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Hotels
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If you're traveling solo and your room has a double bed, sleep on the side farthest from the phone. It's slept on less frequently and is therefore more comfortable.

— Ruth Schnur
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Road Trips
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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt

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