BudgetTravel

DAY 1
"Let's find treasure," says my 3-year-old son, William. Holding a map of Amelia Island's Fort Clinch State Park, he leads me up winding staircases, past rows of cannons, and into the dark barracks of the park's Civil War-era structure. As far as I know, Fort Clinch was never a hiding place for anyone's gold, but we're having too much fun to worry about historical accuracy. "I think I see a pirate ship!" I say, picking Will up so that he can peer at Cumberland Sound through an opening in the brick walls.

When traveling with kids, it's often wise to follow their leads--even if that means rarely sitting still. Keeping an eye open for moments to relax is also smart. While Will and I are at the fort, my wife, Jessica, and Owen, our 1-year-old, take a late-morning nap in our room at Amelia Hotel & Suites. Soon enough, I get a break, too. Will and I sit under a canopy of trees at a playground across from the fort and share a banana and some Oreos.

St. Augustine Alligator Farm (Lauren Keenan)

Following the treasure hunt at Fort Clinch, the four of us regroup at Barbara Jean's, a regional mini chain that has a reputation for outstanding Southern food. The location--in a shiny new development--doesn't seem at all down-home. But the porch is pleasant, and lunch is delicious: pot roast, meat loaf, green beans, squash casserole, three types of homemade bread. Naturally, we also order Chocolate Stuff, a bowl of half-cooked brownie mix covered in whipped cream.

Dinner doesn't go as smoothly. At a Mexican place in downtown Fernandina Beach called Pablo's, Owen grows fascinated with a blond baby girl across the courtyard. He proceeds to fling rice and beans while trying to escape the high chair. Jessica and I each gulp down two of the strong margaritas as we attempt to get everyone fed without too much disturbance.

Fernandina Beach, the lone town on Amelia Island, is a charming old port. Victorian homes, brick buildings, and palm trees drape Centre Street. It feels genuinely Southern, more akin to Charleston than to Miami. At The Snak Shak Company, we behave, well, like four kids in a candy store, ogling the gum balls, lollipops, and gator-shaped chocolate bars. As Jessica buys a frozen chocolate-covered Key lime pie on a stick, a familiar tune comes from the TV.

"We alternate between the old Willy Wonka movie and the new one," the clerk says. "I have nightmares about Oompa-Loompas."

As the sun fades, the four of us splash in the hotel pool before turning in for the night. We're all asleep by 8:30 p.m.

Lodging

• Amelia Hotel & Suites 1997 S. Fletcher Ave., Fernandina Beach, 877/263-5428, ameliahotelandsuites.com, from $119

Food

• Barbara Jean's 960030 Gateway Blvd., Amelia Island, 904/277-3700, barbarajeans.com, pot roast $10
• Pablo's 12 N. 2nd St., Fernandina Beach, 904/261-0049, fajitas $8


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Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.