ROAD TRIP

A Sunshine State of Mind

Florida's northeast coast has plenty to thrill kids, but you don't have to be a youngster (or sip from the Fountain of Youth) to have a blast.

St. Augustine Alligator Farm (Lauren Keenan)

DAY 1
"Let's find treasure," says my 3-year-old son, William. Holding a map of Amelia Island's Fort Clinch State Park, he leads me up winding staircases, past rows of cannons, and into the dark barracks of the park's Civil War-era structure. As far as I know, Fort Clinch was never a hiding place for anyone's gold, but we're having too much fun to worry about historical accuracy. "I think I see a pirate ship!" I say, picking Will up so that he can peer at Cumberland Sound through an opening in the brick walls.

When traveling with kids, it's often wise to follow their leads--even if that means rarely sitting still. Keeping an eye open for moments to relax is also smart. While Will and I are at the fort, my wife, Jessica, and Owen, our 1-year-old, take a late-morning nap in our room at Amelia Hotel & Suites. Soon enough, I get a break, too. Will and I sit under a canopy of trees at a playground across from the fort and share a banana and some Oreos.

Following the treasure hunt at Fort Clinch, the four of us regroup at Barbara Jean's, a regional mini chain that has a reputation for outstanding Southern food. The location--in a shiny new development--doesn't seem at all down-home. But the porch is pleasant, and lunch is delicious: pot roast, meat loaf, green beans, squash casserole, three types of homemade bread. Naturally, we also order Chocolate Stuff, a bowl of half-cooked brownie mix covered in whipped cream.

Dinner doesn't go as smoothly. At a Mexican place in downtown Fernandina Beach called Pablo's, Owen grows fascinated with a blond baby girl across the courtyard. He proceeds to fling rice and beans while trying to escape the high chair. Jessica and I each gulp down two of the strong margaritas as we attempt to get everyone fed without too much disturbance.

Fernandina Beach, the lone town on Amelia Island, is a charming old port. Victorian homes, brick buildings, and palm trees drape Centre Street. It feels genuinely Southern, more akin to Charleston than to Miami. At The Snak Shak Company, we behave, well, like four kids in a candy store, ogling the gum balls, lollipops, and gator-shaped chocolate bars. As Jessica buys a frozen chocolate-covered Key lime pie on a stick, a familiar tune comes from the TV.

"We alternate between the old Willy Wonka movie and the new one," the clerk says. "I have nightmares about Oompa-Loompas."

As the sun fades, the four of us splash in the hotel pool before turning in for the night. We're all asleep by 8:30 p.m.

Lodging

Food

  • Barbara Jean's 960030 Gateway Blvd., Amelia Island, 904/277-3700, barbarajeans.com, pot roast $10
  • Pablo's 12 N. 2nd St., Fernandina Beach, 904/261-0049, fajitas $8
  • The Snak Shak Co. 310 Centre St., Fernandina Beach, 904/277-8713

Activities

DAY 2
Our first destination is the Fountain of Youth, in St. Augustine. It bills itself as a "national archaeological park"--a tourist trap too irresistible to pass up. (An earlier Google search revealed that there's no proof Ponce de León ever set foot on the grounds. It also yielded a link to a plastic surgery clinic in Tampa.) There's a diorama of Spanish soldiers and a frilly, blue, rolling mechanism meant to resemble ocean waves. In the center of the room is a brown stone well. The guide hands out cups of the famed water, which smells and tastes of sulfur. If you have to drink a lot of this stuff to live forever, forget it.

Further proof of Florida's eccentricity is in Vilano Beach, where there's a medieval-style castle built as a really big work of art. The castle is the turnoff point for Cap's on the Water, a wonderful seafood restaurant where we have an early lunch under some old oak trees that overlook marshland and the Tolomato River.

We then head over to the St. Augustine Alligator Farm Zoological Park, where we find parking alongside three school buses. "This place is a zoo," I say, before realizing the pun. Will and Owen don't mind the crowds or the broiling heat. They watch in awe as a staffer entices Maximo, a 15-foot-long crocodile, to leap out of the pool and munch on some rodents.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

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I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

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Put an address label on your one-time-use camera. At a Final Four game in Indianapolis, we exchanged identical Kodak Fun Savers with another traveler so that we could take souvenir photos of each other with our respective cameras. But afterward, we couldn't tell whose camera was whose. Luckily, I remembered how many exposures remained on mine, so we got ours back. Next time, I'll just label it.

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It's easy to lose track of time in a windowless interior cabin. Before going to sleep, tune into the ship's bridge-camera channel for real-time videos of the front (or bow) of the boat. The screen will act like a virtual porthole, and you'll rise and shine with the sunrise.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

— Denise Crocker
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Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

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Shout Wipes take up very little space in your purse or backpack and are invaluable for treating stains. While traveling on an airplane, I gave one to a most grateful Italian after he spilled wine on his tie. Our friendship extended through customs, and we're now e-mail pals. Great stuff!

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Don't rush off the car-rental lot. Before driving away--especially in foreign countries where the controls might be unfamiliar-test the headlights and brakes, and look for the extra tire and changing tools. I once had a rental with malfunctioning brakes in Mexico and caused a minor accident--one that could certainly have been avoided had I checked them properly before leaving the lot.

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Water-bottle holsters are good for more than holding water. I own several Water Bottle Totes by Outdoor Research (orgear.com). With their Velcro-like straps, I can fasten them anywher--to my belt, camera strap, fanny pack, purse, or airplane seat. I've used them at various times to carry my camera, binoculars, snacks, umbrella, battery-powered fan, flashlight, sunglasses, a windbreaker, and a rain poncho.

— Patricia S Beagle
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Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell
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If your vacation spot is a major port of call for cruise ships, plan excursions for the days that the ships aren't docked. Tours will be less crowded, and you'll get to see and do a lot more.

— Krista Fowles
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Attach a few carabiners--the kind of clips rock climbers use--to the top of your wheeled suitcase. Purses, cameras, and shopping bags can be clipped to your suitcase, giving your hands and shoulders a rest while you're walking around the airport.

— Kathryn Murphy
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Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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I always have problems locating my rental car in a large parking lot. Now I bring along a brightly colored bandanna and tie it to the antenna.

— Tamara Johnson
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Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment.

— Cindy Nguyen
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I use an inexpensive, thumb-size USB flash drive to store medical and insurance contacts, confirmation codes, credit card numbers, addresses, and phone numbers. It fits in a secure zip pocket in my travel purse. If I don't have my laptop, I can insert the flash drive in most hotel or Internet café computers. Some USB flash drives password-protect your data, or you can download a free encryption program.

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Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

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On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
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— Glenn and Michelle Schultes
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— Raymond White
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For fire-safety reasons, cabins don't have their own irons. Don't wait until the last minute to tackle your evening wardrobe. You can find shared irons down the hall in the laundry room, but lines often form before mealtimes. Opt for off-hours (like mornings).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Pack a couple of mountaineering carabiners. Clip one through the handle or strap of your bag and secure it to something solid wherever you may be (to a bench in the park or in a train station, to the railing of an overhead compartment on a bus, etc.).The carabiner adds a bit of security, especially if you're snoozing.

— R. Bryan Simon
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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On the final day of a recent Caribbean vacation, I tried to arrange for a late checkout, but was told it wasn't possible. The hotel offered me the use of a day room; it would have been perfect, but it was being used by other guests, and there was a very long wait for the shower. I went back upstairs and saw that someone was just about to clean my room. I told the housekeeper that I understood she had to do her job, but I wondered if I could I take a quick shower first. She offered to clean next door while I took my shower. I tipped her $10 and then left for the airport.

— Michele Chico

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