TRANSCRIPT

Trip Coach: December 11, 2007

Zora O'Neill, co-author of 'The Rough Guide to the Yucatán' and owner of RovingGastronome.com, answered your questions on Yucatán.

Zora O'Neill: Hello—this is Zora O'Neill. Thanks so much for joining me for this chat! I've been visiting the Yucatan since 2003, and every time I visit, I'm given one more reason to think it's a fantastic place—nice people, tasty food, good weather, cool culture and loads of variety... So whether you're looking to veg out on a beach or hike around in the jungle, send your questions along. I'm looking forward to hearing what you're planning!

_______________________

Fredericksburg, Va.: Hi, Zora! My wife and I love Playa del Carmen. We've heard that they'll be building an international airport there within the next couple years. Have you heard about that? And what's the best way to keep track of news from that area?

—Mitch

Zora O'Neill: Hi Mitch!

Playa is great! Even as it develops, it has kept a really mellow, hip flavor. As for the airport, I've heard talk about this too—the alleged plan, first mentioned by politicians a couple of years ago, is to overhaul the airstrip at Tulum and make that into an international airport. But there's no evidence of this on the ground yet, and I doubt it will happen anytime soon—especially because Cancun's airport has just added a new terminal. The plan also doesn't help or change Playa substantially, because Tulum is also an hour away.

The website playa.info has a really active set of forums, with a lot of Playa residents contributing—this is definitely the first place to go for gossip.

_______________________

Mountain View, Calif.: Hello, Zora. I am looking for a good deal to go to Cancun with my family over the holidays for a week—2 adults, 2 kids. Round trip flights from San Jose, CA are around $1k+ now. I'd like to know if this is inflated. Are there good and bad times to go?

Where would be a good place to stay? I've looked at several hotels—north, nr, downtown looks like it's just hotels after hotels. South looks less congested but would it be difficult to get to town if we wanted to (shopping?)? How do Riviera Maya and Playa del Carmen compare to Cancun?

Zora O'Neill: The holidays are a tricky time to visit Cancun and the Riviera Maya—all the hotels charge their highest rates at this time (even higher than the late winter and spring beach season), and they usually require that you book for the whole week between Christmas and New Year's. As for airfare, the price you're quoting sounds high, but I'm not surprised—this really is the premium time of the year. If your schedule can handle it, you might just have to wait to see if any last-minute discount deals are available.

As for where to stay in Cancun, don't worry, as there are buses that run every few minutes up and down the full length of the beach area and into downtown, and the price is only 65 cents! Aside from Punta Cancun, where most of the bars and clubs are, everything is so spread out anyway, you'll have to take a bus regardless of where you stay. I'd say pick the hotel you like, and go from there.

But in general, know this about the beaches: The hotel zone is a barrier island shaped like the number '7'. The north section—the top of the 7—faces the bay and usually has calm, totally waveless water. But the closer you get to the bend in the 7, the more rocks there are, and some hotels have some creative "beaches" that are more like sand over breakwaters. On the other hand, the beach at the Presidente Intercontinental (and its neighbor, Ambiance Villas at Kin-Ha) is one of the most beautiful in the whole hotel zone, as it's especially deep.

Once you go around the bend in the 7 and head south, you're right, the feel is less congested, and the beaches feel a bit more open. The water on this side is the open Caribbean, though, and the waves can be high and occasionally too dangerous to swim in. But the scenery really is gorgeous. One other note about the beaches in this section: in many cases, the hotel towers are so tall that they cast shade all over the beach by mid-afternoon—so if you're staying on this side, you should be an early riser! (Or book at the Westin or the Club Med, which have west-facing pools.)

As for Playa del Carmen and the rest of the Riviera Maya, there is a lot of variety there. Playa is great for nightlife that's not as party-hardy as Cancun's, and Tulum is extremely mellow, but staying on the beach there is really for people who have money but don't care about not having electricity (and a/c, and TV and all that) all the time. And there are scores of individual resorts in between these towns and Cancun.

You probably are more likely to find a good package deal in Cancun proper, but you could also keep an eye out for other options down the coast—these will mostly be all-inclusive deals.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

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Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

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By the time I got home from my first trip to Europe in 1963, I'd collected menus from several restaurants I liked. I threw them into a box. In 1988, I returned to Europe and went to the Middle East. Once again, I picked up a few menus. This time I had them all framed and they now hang in my kitchen. Since then, I've added to the collection. It's fun looking at the prices and remembering the good times—plus they make great conversation pieces when I have a party.

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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

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My husband and I keep the stretchy slipper-socks that some airlines provide. (We've gotten them on Virgin Atlantic in economy class and on almost all airlines in business class.) They're great to use when packing shoes: Just slip each shoe into a sock, and you'll prevent clothes from getting marked up by the soles. As a bonus, you'll have slippers to wear when you're away from home. The socks are machine-washable and can last for many years.

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Cruises
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