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Trip Coach: January 15, 2008

Ross Wehner, co-author of Moon Handbooks Peru, answered your questions on Peru.
Tuesday, January 15, 2008 |

Ross Wehner: You know, I would not stay in the hotel that is right at the entrance to Machu Picchu. To be honest, it's extremely expensive (north of $500 per night at least) and I don't think the rooms are that nice. Most people stay at one of the boring but affordable hotels down in Aguas Calientes—and you can still get up and hike before dawn or catch a shuttle and see Machu Picchu at sunrise, which is what I suggest doing to escape the crowds. The best option for staying at Machu Picchu by far, and the place to stay if you want to splurge, is Inkaterra's Machu Picchu hotel. The owner, Jose Koechlin, and his wife have impeccable taste and Jose has been a major force in Peruvian consevation. Since I met him in 1990, he has been Conservation International's point person in Peru. Teh food is wonderful, there are over 100 orchids on the property, I identified 30 bird species in half-hour of birding there one morning—in short, it's a paradise next to the otherwise cramped conditions of Aguas Calientes and even the luxury Machu Picchu hotel.

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Fort Myers, Fla.: I am torn between hiking the trail to Machu Picchu and taking one of the trains. I am not an athletic person but normally walk for 8 hours or more daily when on vacation without problems. However, I'm not wearing my luggage and bedding while I walk. What should I consider when making that decision?

Ross Wehner: The Inka Trail is not something to be taken lightly. There are three passes over 14,000 feet and the walking can be rough. Then again, I never tell anyone not to dare to do something because if you go with the right attitude and desire I am sure you can make it. Another option, less strenuous, is the 2-day, one-night version that all the operators offer. There are also incredible and less commiting hikes all over Peru—Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley, is a wonderful base camp for intellectually stimulating day hikes.

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Sao Paulo, Brazil: How long should we stay in Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu? Do you think 2 days in Cusco and 2 days in MC are enough?

Ross Wehner: I do recommend staying overnight in Machu Picchu so that you can get there at dawn and escape the crowds. As the trains roll in and the ruins fill up with people in mid-morning escape to one of the fabulous day hikes that will take you toa mind-blowing spot in the Machu Picchu complex—the Moon Temple is my favorite, but there is also Huayna Picchu, the peak over MP, the hanging bridge and Mt. Machu Picchu the peak opposite Huayna Picchu which no one ever climbs but has just a good of view of MP. I did it last year as an acclimatization hike with some mountain climbers and we had a great time (base to summit, 1-2 hours depending on your shape. Bring food and water).

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Oakton, Va.: I am going to Peru in late June to present scholarship money to a child I have sponsered thry Plan International. He lives in Laderas A, about an hour north of Lima. How hard is it to get there? Do I need to rent a jeep rather than a car? Is there somewhere I can take him and his Mom for a special night out? Or a terrific day trip? How difficult is it to get to Ayacucho? I have another school grant I hope to do there. Can this all be done in a week? Are school fees handled thru a bank check mostly or by credit card? Where can I get more information? Thanks, Nadine

Ross Wehner: Nadine

Very interesting. I would suggest that you get help through Plan International or a Lima-based contact for visiting Laderas A. I am not sure where that is, but it sounds like a pueblo joven (slum) outside of town. I have certainly spent time in the pueblos and have never had a problem, but I don't think you should go there alone. Especially if you don't speak Spanish. There is too much risk. So go with someone from Lima who you trust, rent a car or a taxi and have it wait for you while you are there. You can rent a car with drive for a whole day in Lima for around $80-$100 and there are few recommendations in Moon Peru for that. For a day trip, maybe you could ask them what they woud like to do—it also depends where Laderas A is located. There is Pachacama, the ruins south of Lima, which are fascinating, plus the Gold Museum in town which is pretty expensive for poor kids and mind-blowing.

For school fees, you should probably plan on making a transfer right into the person's bank account if they have one. Otherwise by check. Most kids go to state schools, which of course are paid for by the state. Private school tuition is paid for by check, usually.

Feel free to contact me offline with more questions as I am interested in the work you are doing, ross@worldleadershipschool.com.

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Asheville, N.C.: Hi Ross and the Budget Travel Staff, I am turning 30 this summer and want to really make it memorable. I'd like to take a trip to Peru but I have limited funds and will have to travel solo. Can you recommend a safe and reasonable tour agency for a 10-14 day trip around late June? Thanks for your help! Jessica

Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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