Registration
Print
TRANSCRIPT

Trip Coach: January 22, 2008

Andrew Hempstead, author of "Moon Handbooks New Zealand," answered your questions on New Zealand.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008 |

Andrew Hempstead: I'd suggest six weeks, split equally between the two islands. Rather than traveling the entire time, plan on spending a full week somewhere to immerse yourself in the "real" New Zealand, even if it's a small town.

_______________________

Pittsboro, N.C.: My wife and I are planning our itinerary for a campervan tour of NZ in Feb-Mar. We have 10 days on the S. Island and will travel from Picton to Queenstown along the West coast. If we drive directly from Q'town to Christchurch (assuming we omit Dunedin), should we take the inland route OR go East and drive up along the coast? I.e., what are the trade-offs in scenery and driveabilty between the two routes? Thanks!

Andrew Hempstead: Goldfields or wildlife? The inland route is dotted with old goldrush towns whle the coastal Catlins (between Dunedin and Christchurch) is one of the better places in New Zealand for wildlife viewing.

_______________________

Romeoville, Ill.: We plan to rent an RV and tour both the North and South Islands for about a month. Should we divide the time between the islands 50/50 or is there more to see and do on the South Island? Do we need reservations for the ferry that would take us between the two islands? We plan to be there in February/March 2009.

Andrew Hempstead: 50/50 is an ideal split for general sightseeing. The South Island is renowned for "outdoorsy" pursuits, but the North Island's beaches, volcanoes, and national parks are equally appealing to many.

I would book the ferry as far in advance as possible for a summer crossing. There are cheaper fare levels available for booking within New Zealand, but if the "level" has sold out, and so have higher fares, you'll miss out all together.

_______________________

Austin, Tex.: How much of a problem is driving in winter? My husband and I are planning an August, 2008, visit to New Zealand. We are going to focus most of our time on the north island, and the northern portions of the south island—Christchurch is about as far south as we are thinking of. We are concerned that road conditions farther south would make our driving dangerous. What are your thoughts on winter-season travel?

Andrew Hempstead: Mountain roads are always narrow and generally icy in winter, especially on the South Island. The coastal route between Picton and Christchurch is at sea level and rarely ices over.

_______________________

Mena, Ariz.: Looking for the best deals on roundtrip flights to NZ. We plan on making a 3-6 month visit starting in late Nov. or early Dec. '08 departing from LAX, and arriving in Auckland. Could you please tell me the best online airline deals? And how far in advance the least inexpensive tickets might be obtained? Cheers, Mark

Andrew Hempstead: Air New Zealand has some good deals year-round. Start checking their web specials page.

_______________________

Los Angeles, Calif.: My wife and I plan to visit New Zealand over the Christmas-New Year break at the end of this year. I understand that reservations at hotels and on ferries and buses are very difficult to get because of heavy bookings, and that tours are a better bet because they book space long in advance. Do you agree? And if you favor taking a tour, do you know of a reliable firm that puts together individualized air/bus/train/hotel packages?

Andrew Hempstead: Tours do indeed guarantee your travel arrangements run smoothly, but as it sounds like you're already planning your trip, you should have no problems making bookings this far in advance for next Christmas.

_______________________

Chicago, Ill.: Hello from freezing cold Chi-Town! My boyfriend and I (he's 36 and I'm 45) are now anxiously awaiting our Feb. 15th-29th trip to New Zealand's South Island. Because we only have 11 full days and we are flying in to Christchurch and out of Queenstown, we found that we must make a choice between making our way from Arthur's Pass to Queenstown for 2 nights in either the Mount Cook/Lake Pukaki area or the Fox/Franz Josef Glaciers and then Wanaka area. Although they are geographically located next to each other, there is no pass to travel between the two areas. We love dramatic mountain lake scenery and moderate half-day long hikes. We DON'T love hordes of tourists but realize that both spots will have them. We know that a Heli-hike on Fox or Franz Josef Glacier is the best option there. If we go the West Coast glacier route, we were considering the heli-hike and then perhaps the "Siberian Experience" the following day. We know that's packing a lot into only 2 days. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

—Lauren and Pete in Chicago

Andrew Hempstead: Yes, lots in two days for travel between Christchurch and Queenstown. Firstly, the Siberia Experience is one of the better "packaged" wilderness experiences in New Zealand—a must-do. I would plan the west coast drive rather Mount Cook for a couple of reasons—you'll see lots of other mountains around Queenstown, Arthur's Pass, and driving across Haast Pass.

The heli-hike is very weather dependant, but in many ways, walking up to the glacier on an overcast day (and along its edge for experienced hikers) is just as interesting.

The highway down the west coast is very slow going—30 miles per hour is average—so plan appropriately. Maybe spend one day less in Queenstown...

_______________________

Encinitas, Calif.: As a traveler who has been to NZ 7 times in the years past, what sort of changes would I see in the South Island as compared to what was seen in 1988?

Andrew Hempstead: Obviously the scenery has changed little in the last couple of decades, but the local tourism infrastructure has transformed itself into one of the world's best on every level—from backpacker lodges that are more like hotels, to restaurants serving super-creative foods, to organized tours that cover every inch of the country.

The wine industry in the South Island has also boomed. In many cases, its more than just about the wine, but the wineries promote themselves as destinations, with accommodations, restaurants, and walking trails.

_______________________

Kenosha, Wis.: My wife and I will be traveling in New Zealand in March. How long does it take to drive from Christchurch to the ferry terminal in Picton, taking into consideration we have to drop a car off at the terminal? There is a ferry leaving at 1:15pm.

Thank you,
Pat and Lynda

Andrew Hempstead: Like elsewhere in New Zealand, you should allow a lot longer than the map suggests. Christchurch to Picton is around 120 miles, but allow at least three hours driving time. Vehicle drop-off at the ferry is quick and well organized.

If possible I'd recommend leaving the night before and staying overnight along the way at Kaikoura (whale-watching, good seafood, seal colonies, and memorable accommodations like Hapuku Lodge), one of my favorite places in New Zealand.

_______________________

Northville, Mich.: My wife and I will be touring New Zealand from Feb 1st-Feb 23rd. What temperatures ranges can we expect?

Andrew Hempstead: Temperatures in New Zealand vary greatly from one end of the country to the other. Auckland in February sees many days in the 70s and 80s, while the South Island is at least 10 degrees cooler.

Also note: Temperatures in New Zealand are always given in Celsius. Unless you can do the conversion in your head, I'd recommend carrying a small chart so you can quickly see the Fahrenheit equivalent.

_______________________

Seattle, Wash.: Hi. What is the best time of year to take my children over for a visit? Either Christmas break for two weeks or July-Aug for two weeks? I would like to spend a week in Northern New Zealand, visiting relatives, and a week in Sydney/GBR. Is it doable in just 2 weeks?

Andrew Hempstead: The time you decide to visit New Zealand depends on your interests. Late December through January is summer break in New Zealand. If you can book well in advance and are prepared for higher prices, this is a wonderful time of year to visit. The skiing and snowboarding is great in July and August, but you wouldn't be able to enjoy many of the other outdoor activities the country is known for.

_______________________

Puyallup, Wash.: I am a long distance hiker. Are there any tramps like the Pacific Crest trail there. What I am interested in is: 1-4 week trips for 2-4 people. There would be resupply places and/or lodging every 4-7 days. I like to plan my own backpacking trips, but a website of a backing tour guide might be helpful. Thanks, Sharon

Andrew Hempstead: New Zealand has no trails similar to the Pacific Crest in length. Fiordland National Park has a half-dozen long-distance trails (the 50-mile Dusky Track is considered the most challenging), many of which link up or can be hiked in combination.

_______________________

Sanford, Fla.: My husband (57) and I (53) have traveled all over the world. We love to hike and have wanted to hike the Milford Trek for years. Is it a difficult hike? What are the accomodations (don't particularly want to camp)? And what month is ideal?

Thank you,
Maureen

Andrew Hempstead: Due to its popularity, access to the Milford Track is restricted to 40 hikers each day. Additionally—and luckily for you—camping is prohibited. Instead, hikers are required to stay in the three huts en route, making it a four-day trip. Details at doc.govt.nz. A number of companies such as Ultimate Hikes offer guided walking trips. These are more expensive, with guests staying in upscale lodges along the trail (these lodges are for hikers on guided walks only).

If you have the time, I'd suggest hiking the Milford Track, but also walking one of the less-famous, less-crowded, but equally scenic trails. For its scenery alone, the Routeburn Track is my favorite of these.

Regardless of which track you walk, it's impossible not to be impressed with the hiking infrastructure in this part of the South Island. The government brochures (available through the website doc.govt.nz) are very detailed, huts are along most trails, shuttle buses buzz between trailheads, and companies such as Info&Track (infotrack.co.nz) in Queenstown bring all the elements together. Although they can't control the weather...

_______________________

Calgary, Alberta, Canada: What is the best way to see the highlights (the must-dos) of New Zealand in 3-4 weeks without spending most of your time driving/navigating?

Andrew Hempstead: I would suggest renting a vehicle in Auckland and dropping it off in Christchurch, then flying one way back to Auckland for your return flight home. If you are planning to travel in fall (March through May), reverse this itinerary so that you are in the South Island during the beginning of your trip, when the weather is warmer.

_______________________

Los Angeles, Calif.: My travel girlfriends and I are planning on going to NZ later in the year. What time would you suggest when we could get a good deal on flight and accommodations? Also, what areas would you suggest we visit? We plan on going for about 1-2 weeks. Thank you.

Andrew Hempstead: December is the start of high season. Airfares are less expensive in November, and this time of year (spring) is warm enough for short sleeves yet crowds are minimal.

Allow one week to drive around each island. The North Island is more varied than the South, so I'd stick to the North for a short trip.

_______________________

Mitchellville, Md.: We are attending our niece's wedding in Australia Sept 27 and plan to leave from Brisbane to New Zealand on Sept. 30. We would like to spend 10 days-2 weeks in New Zealand. There will be 4 adults. Can you recommend the best way to proceed: organized tour; tour on our own (preferred); we are U.S. and don't want to drive but one is from England who could be the driver. Ages 59-62.

Andrew Hempstead: It is difficult to "tour on your own" without driving (the bus system is excellent, but not as practical as driving).

Roads on the South Island are more demanding than the north, and distances are greater. How about joining a guided tour through the South Island and renting a vehicle to get around the North?

_______________________

Papillion, Neb.: What exactly are glow worms?

Andrew Hempstead: Glow worms are larva that hang from the ceiling of caves (Waitomo is best known). Their tails glow to attract small insects, which are trapped and eaten.

_______________________

Minneapolis, Minn. : Are there any places on either island to go on a free glow worm tour? Also, where are some places to purchase afforadle, but authentic, Moari art?

Andrew Hempstead: A few places, such as Hokitika, have small glow worm caves, but, for the price of a lunch, the caves at Waitomo are far superior.

_______________________

Louisville, Ky.: My spouse and I both in our late 50's have shared interests and activities for our Fall trip to N.Z.. However we do have some separate interests. I am a weaver and would like to meet other weavers and maybe visit a sheep farm. My husband is interested in a bike tour. Are there places to contact to meet these interests?

Andrew Hempstead: Most towns have weaving clubs. The best way to find out about these would be to inquire at local visitor centers. Regarding bike tours, not sure if you mean bicycles or motorbikes, but check bikenz.org.nz for the former.

_______________________

Niceville, Fla.: My husband and I will travel to NZ at the end of Feb. for a business meeting in Auckland and then plan to explore the country for 3 weeks. We already have our round-trip tickets between the US and Auckland. In trying to sort out an in-country itinerary, we are confused by the many various opinions on how to travel between the North & South islands. Rent a car for just a few days on NI, then fly to SI? Fly to the south end of SI, then drive back north? I know there isn't one best answer for everyone, but is there really a time or economic advantage of one direction over the other? Also, are domestic NZ air tickets cheaper to buy from the US before we leave, or in NZ after we get there?

Andrew Hempstead: Airline tickets can be bought more cheaply in New Zealand. One way to do this without actually being in the country is to go the Air New Zealand website and click on the New Zealand site, and by default you'll be offered different fare levels than on the U.S. site.

I'd suggest renting one vehicle for the entire trip. Rental car companies are based at both ferry terminals, so you leave your vehicle in Wellington and pick another up in Picton. This process runs very smoothly, saves you money, and keeps all vehicles on their island of origin. The car company does not need to know you're changing vehicles more than a day or so ahead of time, so your original booking should be for one block of time.

_______________________

Cincinnati, Ohio: The scenery in The Lord of the Rings trilogy was spectacular. How do I find the best tour/tour guide to show me some of those sites, and how much money should I plan to spend doing such a tour?

Andrew Hempstead: Once you arrive in Queenstown, you will be inundated by "Lord" tours.

Ian Brodie has authored a book on the film sites, but it may only be available in New Zealand.

_______________________

Bonita Springs, Fla.: What is the best time of year for a month-long independent "tour" of the country. My wife and I are 65, have traveled extensively in Australia, but have never neen to New Zealand. Thanks.

Andrew Hempstead: November and March are my favorite times of year to visit New Zealand.

_______________________

Louisville, Ky.: We plan to be in N.Z. in Sept/Oct for about two weeks. Should we try to see both the North and South Islands in that time frame? Is renting a car the best way to get around? Are bed and breakfast places readily available?

Andrew Hempstead: One week on each island is ideal. Renting a car is ideal, but do make sure to allow extra time for the country's winding roads. Bed and breakfasts are very popular in New Zealand. The best are detailed in my own guidebook, or purchase the New Zealand Bed and Breakfast Guide.

_______________________

Simpsonville, S.C.: I will be touring NZ in October 2008. What are the best wines to try? I am on a limited budget, 68-years-old, and interested in the history, particularly during WWII. Do you have a recommendation for a good museum?

Andrew Hempstead: Tastes vary, but wines from the Martinborough and Otago regions are highly under-rated and both very enjoyable areas places to visit.

The Museum of New Zealand (Wellington) should not be missed.

_______________________

Springfield, Ore.: My husband and I are planning to go to New Zealand this fall or next spring. Can you please tell us which is the better time to travel with specific regard to cost of air fare and lodging, fewest travelers, and things to do. For both spring and fall, please give the dates defining "low season" when the best rates are available.

Thank you very much,
Betsy

Andrew Hempstead: Both times of year are shoulder season and airfares, crowds, etc, equal. November and March are my favorite months for travel, although the ocean is too cool for swimming in November. You also may want to avoid Easter, which is busy everywhere.

_______________________

Maumelle, Ark.: What adventure companies do you recommend for N.Z.? I'm particularly interested in hiking/trekking.

Andrew Hempstead: I traveled with Hiking New Zealand and had a wonderful trip. This company is one of the original adventure companies in New Zealand. Website is nzsafaris.co.nz.

_______________________

Andrew Hempstead: I hope my answers help in planning your travels.

New Zealand is one of my favorite places in the world and I'm sure you will enjoy the country as much as I always do.

Happy Trails, Andrew

Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

Print

Get E-Newsletters
Subscribe to the magazine now!