URBAN RENEWAL

Biloxi, Alive and Thriving

While this Mississippi city will never forget Hurricane Katrina, its residents are ready to embrace a bright, shiny future.

The Beach Boulevard strip (Chris Granger)

Flip through a rack of postcards in any Biloxi, Miss., gift shop, and along with images of magnolia trees and sunsets, you're likely to find a few satellite shots of Hurricane Katrina looming over the Gulf Coast. "Why not?" asks a store clerk downtown. "We lived it."

While New Orleans has caught most of the nation's attention, Biloxi has also been busy getting back on its feet. The city has been pumping state and federal reconstruction funds into tourism infrastructure and aggressively encouraging private development. It seems to be working: The Gulfport-Biloxi International Airport now has more direct flights than it did three years ago, before Katrina.

Highway 90 shoots directly to the center of town, passing miles of white-sand beaches and the cast-metal Biloxi lighthouse. The Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum was destroyed in the hurricane, but a new building near the lighthouse is under way. In the meantime, the museum's pair of 65-foot replica oyster schooners, which survived the storm, are once again offering afternoon and sunset cruises. The original ships sailed the waters off Biloxi in the early 1900s, earning the city a reputation as the shrimp and oyster capital of the world.

Shrimp is still plentiful today, especially in the gumbo served (and sold by the gallon) at Mary Mahoney's Old French House. "We got hammered by Katrina," says owner Bob Mahoney, son of the late Mary. "Our dining room was flooded with five feet of water." That didn't stop the popular restaurant (John Grisham and Denzel Washington are among its fans) from reopening within three months. The walls are again packed with antique oil paintings and vintage snapshots, and the $14 lunch special still comes with Mary's bread pudding in rum sauce.

Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, whose wife grew up in Gulfport, Miss., has a new restaurant at the Island View Casino Resort. Just about everything on the Creole-inspired menu at Emeril's Gulf Coast Fish House is from the region, including the crispy Gulf oysters and the quail stuffed with boudin. The dining room has views of Cat Island and Ship Island, but the best seats might be the ones inside the 4,000-bottle wine tower.

Across from Mary Mahoney's looms one of the city's newest additions: the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Biloxi, which was originally set to debut the day the hurricane hit. With its metallic purple windows and towering guitar sign, the Hard Rock joins several new and rebuilt casino hotels on Beach Boulevard. Before Katrina, state law required casinos to operate offshore on barges; as a result, all 13 of Biloxi's casinos were severely damaged. The law now allows casinos to be on land (as long as they're within 800 feet of the shore), which has led to a boom in development. The 32-story Beau Rivage Resort & Casino was one of the first to reopen, with a new golf course that weaves through pecan orchards.

The city has also spiffed up a few museums post-Katrina. The Beauvoir Jefferson Davis Presidential Library and Home reopens in June, on the 200th anniversary of the Confederate president's birth. Over the past two years, the museum's antebellum mansion has been restored and furnished with period pieces. The library, Hayes Cottage (where Davis once hosted Oscar Wilde), and barracks are next on the list.

A five-minute drive east is the Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art, which was in the middle of a $16 million redesign by Frank Gehry when Katrina dropped a casino barge onto the building, forcing contractors to start over. In December, the museum finally completed the first phase of the project with the unveiling of the George Ohr Pavilion. The tulip-like gallery, composed of four interconnected metal pods, will display hundreds of ceramic sculptures by the late George E. Ohr, the self-proclaimed Mad Potter of Biloxi. "When Gehry toured our grounds, he fell in love with the live oaks and wanted to create a museum that 'dances with the trees,'" says museum president Larry Clark.

In another sign of progress, the Biloxi Bay Bridge--connecting downtown Biloxi to the neighborhood of Ocean Springs--finally reopened in October. Ocean Springs is home to several live-music bars that are once again hopping. "Every day, I see the area coming back more and more," says Ronnie Hamilton, the manager of the Julep Room Lounge. Just last month, in fact, Hamilton got his first busload of blues-seeking visitors--as sure a sign as any that Biloxi is bouncing back.

Lodging

  • Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Biloxi 777 Beach Blvd., 228/374-7625, hardrockbiloxi.com, from $99
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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Packing
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Dry-cleaning bags stop clothes from wrinkling. Slide each garment into its own bag (leave the hanger at home) and place them flat on your bed, one on top of another. Then carefully fold the entire stack to fit it in your suitcase. Once you get to your hotel, hang everything up as soon as you can. You'll never unpack a suitcase of wrinkled clothes again.

— Claudette Christman
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Safety
433296

Our bags have been stolen twice from inside locked rental cars. Now we travel with a bicycle cable and lock. If we absolutely have to leave our suitcases in the car, I hook them together by the handles and attach the whole thing to the frame of a seat or a secure item in the trunk. Even if thieves manage to get into our car, the cable will make it very difficult for them to make off with the luggage.

— Karen McCarty
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Before leaving on a trip, I print the names and addresses of my friends and family onto clear mailing labels. (All standard word-processing programs have preset templates for creating address labels.) Then, I take the address-label sheets with me on vacation. Since the addresses are already saved in my computer and the mailing labels are adhesive, addressing postcards has become really easy.

— Lisa Higgins
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Family Travel
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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Safety
439317

Don't be afraid to go to a foreign pharmacy. I forgot to pack my prescription medication on a recent trip to France. When my problem acted up, I went to a local pharmacy. (Look for the green cross.) The pharmacist provided my medication without a prescription and at a fraction of what it would have cost in the United States. In fact, one could benefit by stocking up abroad on medications that would normally be acquired at home at a much higher price.

— Mainard Tom
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Packing
370258

A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Packing
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Pack a glue stick for journaling. Rather than bringing home an envelope full of ticket stubs and mementos, you can glue them into your journal as you're traveling. You'll have a better chance of remembering what the ticket was for if you label it right away.

— Jon Chun
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Cruises
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Most cruise lines offer certain drinks for free--juice, lemonade, iced tea, coffee, milk, tea-but you'll have to pay for soda. If you're a caffeine addict, pack a bottle or two. Unlike on a plane, you won't have to worry about paying for the added weight.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

— Jean Schwinn
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Loyalty Programs
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After I was unable to locate any awards seats online for a wide selection of days and routes, I called the airline. An agent told me that the airline's Web site isn't allowed to book awards seats for its partner airlines, but agents can. Within minutes, I had enough options that I found it difficult to make a decision.

— Carol Muth
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Packing
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It's unnecessary to make a packing list for each trip. Instead, draw up a master list with everything you might need on any given trip--from ski goggles to snorkels, slippers to saline solution. Save it on your computer. Before you start packing, cross out anything you don't need for that particular trip.

— Bonnie Herbst
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Air Travel
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If you're stranded overnight at an airport and receive a "distress rate" voucher, call the hotel of your choice before blindly following the airline's suggestion. You may find that for that discounted rate (or a few bucks more) you can stay in a hotel with a lot more amenities than the one the airline would put you in. After a long, mishap-filled trip, anyone can appreciate a really good mattress, a top-notch restaurant, and an indoor swimming pool.

— Carlos Martinez
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When I'm planning a trip, I almost always call the hotel concierge before I arrive, and if my hotel doesn't have one, I call a hotel that does. Recently, I asked for advice on what to see since I only had four days in a new city. I told the concierge what I thought I should try to do, and she said I had too many things packed into four days. She gave me a list of hot spots to visit and places to avoid, and even recommended a florist to call on for fresh flowers. With her help, my trip was far more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise.

— Brian Berg
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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

— France Freeman
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If your flight is canceled, don't just wait patiently in line to be booked on another flight; call the airline's 800 number. They'll answer your call faster, and you won't be waiting with other stranded passengers from that flight. (Or cover all bases by calling while in line.)

— Karen LoPresto-Arbaugh
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I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

— John Eymann
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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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Hotels
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Flight attendants often work vampire hours and have to sleep during the day. How do we keep the sunlight from leaking into our hotel rooms? We clip a skirt hanger (or two) to the middle of the drapes to seal them together.

— Elisabeth Joyce
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Air Travel
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Though they're often the best deals around, don't assume that packaged vacations always offer the biggest bang for your buck. My wife and I were ready to book an air/hotel package to Maui when we noticed a sale on Aloha Airlines ($280 round trip from Oakland). I added up the total cost of the trip if purchased separately and saved $400 over comparable packages from various tour operators. We used the extra money to stay in a nicer hotel and to rent a convertible!

— Kleem Chaudhary
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Batteries for cameras, laptops, cell phones, and other devices can be charged at night in your hotel room. But if you're doing a lot of driving, you might want to buy an inverter to charge them while on the road. Inverters (which plug into the car's cigarette lighter) are small, inexpensive, and can be purchased at auto-supply, variety, or electronics stores.

— Kay Euhus
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My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
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With two of our last three car rentals, the local branch wanted documentation beyond the standard insurance card issued by our insurance company. In San Juan, we were delayed a half hour while the agent made phone calls to verify that our liability insurance was good in Puerto Rico. In Miami, if we hadn't provided proof that our insurance covered rental cars, we would've been charged a daily collision insurance fee. Fortunately, we knew ahead of time and took a copy of the pertinent section of our policy. Our credit card included car rental insurance, but proof of that coverage was also required.

— Carole Goodyear
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I travel with a mailing tube in my suitcase because I often buy paintings, drawings, and maps. My souvenirs always arrive home safe and sound. I just leave the mailing tube in my suitcase until the next trip.

— Abbie-Stuart Fox
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Air Travel
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If you've accumulated more souvenirs on your trip than you can carry, drive your rental car up to curbside check-in, then return the vehicle and come back on the shuttle bus with only your carry-on. This only works if there's no check-in line, but can save dragging your luggage onto the shuttle bus, across parking lots, etc.

— Robyn Volkening
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Shopping
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Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

— Stacy Shaw
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If you're headed to a country that requires a visa, ask the consulate of that country, in the United States, whether visas are also issued at the airport there on arrival. In many cases (like Turkey and Egypt), they are. Obtaining the visa on arrival is a much simpler procedure and a real money-saver: You do not have to have photographs taken (they figure your passport already has a photo), you do not pay a hefty fee to the U.S.-situated consulate of the country, you avoid the expense and risk of mailing your passport to that consulate in advance of departure, and you avoid the expense of using a visa-acquiring company in the United States. But be sure the consulate is correct that the visa can easily be obtained on arrival.

— Carmencita Soriano
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Don't put your magnetic sunglass clip-ons in the same pocket as your mass transit fare cards or hotel key cards. I managed to erase both my subway pass and my hotel key on a recent trip.

— Jim Tichenor
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Planning
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Don't be too quick to grab one of those GST tax-rebate envelopes that are everywhere in Canadian airports. The envelopes look official, but they're really from companies that process the request for you and often pocket 15 percent or more. Instead, go to the Canada Revenue Agency Web site (cra-arc.gc.ca), download the Application for Visitor Tax Refund, and then file the request yourself. Your check will arrive in a few weeks. Just remember to get your receipt stamped by the Canada Border Services Agency at the airport.

— Tony Reynolds
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Packing
379272

Ziploc now makes extra-large bags with handles. They're nearly two feet by two feet, and although Ziploc advertises them as being good for storage, they're also useful for traveling. Bring one on long shopping excursions and then use it as an extra carry-on for souvenirs on the way home.

— Meredith McCulloch

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