URBAN RENEWAL

Biloxi, Alive and Thriving

While this Mississippi city will never forget Hurricane Katrina, its residents are ready to embrace a bright, shiny future.

The Beach Boulevard strip (Chris Granger)

Flip through a rack of postcards in any Biloxi, Miss., gift shop, and along with images of magnolia trees and sunsets, you're likely to find a few satellite shots of Hurricane Katrina looming over the Gulf Coast. "Why not?" asks a store clerk downtown. "We lived it."

While New Orleans has caught most of the nation's attention, Biloxi has also been busy getting back on its feet. The city has been pumping state and federal reconstruction funds into tourism infrastructure and aggressively encouraging private development. It seems to be working: The Gulfport-Biloxi International Airport now has more direct flights than it did three years ago, before Katrina.

Highway 90 shoots directly to the center of town, passing miles of white-sand beaches and the cast-metal Biloxi lighthouse. The Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum was destroyed in the hurricane, but a new building near the lighthouse is under way. In the meantime, the museum's pair of 65-foot replica oyster schooners, which survived the storm, are once again offering afternoon and sunset cruises. The original ships sailed the waters off Biloxi in the early 1900s, earning the city a reputation as the shrimp and oyster capital of the world.

Shrimp is still plentiful today, especially in the gumbo served (and sold by the gallon) at Mary Mahoney's Old French House. "We got hammered by Katrina," says owner Bob Mahoney, son of the late Mary. "Our dining room was flooded with five feet of water." That didn't stop the popular restaurant (John Grisham and Denzel Washington are among its fans) from reopening within three months. The walls are again packed with antique oil paintings and vintage snapshots, and the $14 lunch special still comes with Mary's bread pudding in rum sauce.

Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, whose wife grew up in Gulfport, Miss., has a new restaurant at the Island View Casino Resort. Just about everything on the Creole-inspired menu at Emeril's Gulf Coast Fish House is from the region, including the crispy Gulf oysters and the quail stuffed with boudin. The dining room has views of Cat Island and Ship Island, but the best seats might be the ones inside the 4,000-bottle wine tower.

Across from Mary Mahoney's looms one of the city's newest additions: the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Biloxi, which was originally set to debut the day the hurricane hit. With its metallic purple windows and towering guitar sign, the Hard Rock joins several new and rebuilt casino hotels on Beach Boulevard. Before Katrina, state law required casinos to operate offshore on barges; as a result, all 13 of Biloxi's casinos were severely damaged. The law now allows casinos to be on land (as long as they're within 800 feet of the shore), which has led to a boom in development. The 32-story Beau Rivage Resort & Casino was one of the first to reopen, with a new golf course that weaves through pecan orchards.

The city has also spiffed up a few museums post-Katrina. The Beauvoir Jefferson Davis Presidential Library and Home reopens in June, on the 200th anniversary of the Confederate president's birth. Over the past two years, the museum's antebellum mansion has been restored and furnished with period pieces. The library, Hayes Cottage (where Davis once hosted Oscar Wilde), and barracks are next on the list.

A five-minute drive east is the Ohr-O'Keefe Museum of Art, which was in the middle of a $16 million redesign by Frank Gehry when Katrina dropped a casino barge onto the building, forcing contractors to start over. In December, the museum finally completed the first phase of the project with the unveiling of the George Ohr Pavilion. The tulip-like gallery, composed of four interconnected metal pods, will display hundreds of ceramic sculptures by the late George E. Ohr, the self-proclaimed Mad Potter of Biloxi. "When Gehry toured our grounds, he fell in love with the live oaks and wanted to create a museum that 'dances with the trees,'" says museum president Larry Clark.

In another sign of progress, the Biloxi Bay Bridge--connecting downtown Biloxi to the neighborhood of Ocean Springs--finally reopened in October. Ocean Springs is home to several live-music bars that are once again hopping. "Every day, I see the area coming back more and more," says Ronnie Hamilton, the manager of the Julep Room Lounge. Just last month, in fact, Hamilton got his first busload of blues-seeking visitors--as sure a sign as any that Biloxi is bouncing back.

Lodging

  • Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Biloxi 777 Beach Blvd., 228/374-7625, hardrockbiloxi.com, from $99
  • Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
     
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Travel Tips

Tagged
Packing
402239

Grab-rails and nonskid surfaces aren't common in European bathtubs and showers. I pack a few decorative rubber pads that have non-adhesive suction cups, so I can use them when needed to prevent a slip or fall, and then I take them with me to the next hotel.

— Fran Plewak
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Dining
369260

In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

— Winston Wong
Tagged
Planning
385271

When we visit places we think we might return to, we collect copies of free tourist magazines. At home, we write the address of each magazine on a postcard. Six to eight weeks before our return visit, we send out the cards asking for a current copy. The magazines are full of useful information.

— F. Richard Leininger
Tagged
Cruises
475618

Don't assume you can save a spot at the pool with your towel. Cruise lines give you one pool towel at the start of the cruise. If you don't have it (or a cleaned trade-in) at the end, you'll get charged. If you let it out of your sight, you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen by a fellow cruiser.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
Tagged
Transportation
365254

In Europe, my husband and I like to use public transportation. As a result, we frequently find ourselves studying itineraries displayed on train station walls, trying to read schedules posted at bus stops, or staring at kiosk-size town maps. On our last trip, my husband snapped digital photographs of those things. We were able to take the map or itinerary with us and could refer to it as needed by using the zoom feature.

— Anne Supsic
Tagged
Hotels
422340

Rather than automatically using your hotel's valet parking, you should check to see if there's an adjacent parking lot or garage that offers a better rate. On a recent trip, I was able to park across the street from my hotel for $10 per day--versus $27 per day to valet park with the hotel.

— Charles LaFleur
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Packing
528610

A small compass is a great travel aid. Aside from the obvious benefits during country drives or hikes, it's extremely helpful in navigating winding city streets and orienting yourself once you exit a subway station.

— William Schaeffer
Tagged
Transportation
367246

When I'm on a cruise with my wife's family and we're in a foreign city for the day, I get off the boat as soon as we dock and hail a taxi. I ask the driver to call his dispatcher and find me a van with an English-speaking driver. Then I negotiate an hourly rate and a pickup time at the dock. The family tours together for a few hours, and then each couple either gets dropped off where they want to spend extra time or returns to the boat (this is great for my elderly in-laws). We get a tailor-made city tour for a much cheaper rate than if we had booked through the cruise line.

— Stuart Hanzman
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Planning
362272

I've created files--some general (Southeast Asia), some specific (Hawaii)--for articles and clippings about places I'd like to visit in the future. I don't want all the good tips, restaurant recommendations, and out-of-the-ordinary itineraries to go to waste just because I'm not planning an immediate trip. The files don't have to be super organized--just throw in the clippings, and you can weed through them later. You'll be glad you have the information when you do get a chance to go away.

— Christine Size
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Packing
366261

Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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Packing
360269

Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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Hotels
440344

Need a place for a laptop in your hotel room? Take the largest drawer from the bureau and put it upside down on the bed with the drawer front away from you. This creates a perfect-height desk for while you're sitting comfortably on the bed (you can even lean back on pillows), plus there's side space for papers, and the top leans toward you for easy typing or writing.

— Linda Diebold Johnson
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Dining
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I carry recipe cards with me to jot down interesting dishes I come across while on vacation. (I also like to use colorful postcards from the area I'm visiting and trim them to fit my recipe box.) Here's a wonderful dessert idea I brought home after spending a rainy afternoon with my husband in a London pub: Top a warm waffle with vanilla ice cream, maple syrup, and chopped pecans. It's heaven with a cup of hot tea.

— Susan Mullens
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Photography
389275

When not taking pictures, keep your memory card away from your camera. It's a simple method to ensure that any photographs you've shot will be safe even if your camera is stolen. My husband and I learned this lesson the hard way when we lost 250 shots of Kauai.

— Jamie Thomas
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Air Travel
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Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
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Packing
375293

On a trip to Molokai, the plane we were on was small, and luggage was crammed in every which way. At baggage claim, we noticed that someone had packed a bottle of Pine-Sol, and it had broken and leaked everywhere. Now we line our suitcases with garbage bags to protect our clothes—just in case. (It's also smart in case your bag gets left on the tarmac in a downpour.)

— Aaron Lisle
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Packing
364276

Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
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Packing
386270

If the zipper on your luggage or your clothing is giving you any trouble, rubbing some lip balm or candle wax onto the teeth should loosen it.

— Marko Anderson
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Air Travel
381254

We were told by an airport security official to tape a business card onto the cover of our laptop. Turns out he has an average of six laptop computers left behind each day! There are so many more procedures now--removing shoes, removing coats--that people forget when they send their laptop through in a separate bin. The official added that it's very difficult to return them because most laptops have passwords that keep the owners' personal information hidden.

— Liz Nealon
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Safety
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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

— Jackie MacNeil
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Planning
372285

Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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Road Trips
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For our road trip through the English countryside, I printed out a detailed map for every location we wanted to visit from multimap.com. I labeled each map with the day we planned on using it and wrote down the interesting sites and places to eat along the way. I kept them all in a folder and added brochures from the places we saw. It was a great souvenir upon returning home.

— Karen Holt
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Planning
389240

Before setting off on one of my many backpacking excursions, I head to Kinko's to rebind my guidebook. I replace the cover with a plain black or navy one. It costs about $6 and allows me to blend in much better while traveling. People see my new book as a journal, not a travel guide that labels me a tourist.

— Michelle Johnson
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Family Travel
337283

Having spent a number of years working for Norwegian Cruise Line, I learned that a dinner roll helps to settle the stomach when seas become rough. The less liquid sloshing around unimpeded, the better. And if you forget your motion-sickness pills or wristbands, fear not, as the purser always has medicine available for seasick passengers.

— Jim Polanzke
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Family Travel
386257

When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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Cruises
419333

Here's an important tip for cruising in winter: Fly into the port a day or two before your ship is scheduled to depart. We booked a Costa Rican cruise but were stuck in New York, where all flights out of JFK airport were canceled. Itineraries that include stops in places with airports can allow people to catch up. Ours didn't.

— Anne Schweisguth
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Packing
374259

A beach ball can replace many expensive in-flight gadgets. Depending on how much you inflate it, the ball can function as a very comfortable footrest, a back support, or a lap pillow to support your book.

— Dorothy Vincent
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Packing
383245

When you travel to a beach destination, bring your own snorkel gear. We bought snorkels, masks, and fins at home for half-off (at an end-of-summer sale) before a trip to Hawaii. They didn't take up much room in our luggage, and we would have spent as much or more renting the equipment.

— Keely McNerney
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Packing
395273

Instead of packing a complete shaving kit, my husband fills his wide-mouth Nalgene water bottle with items such as razors, spare contact lenses, eyeglasses, toothbrush, and so on. This turned out to be particularly useful on our trip to Costa Rica, where we also took the bottle on our day hikes to volcanoes and the jungle.

— Terry Clemson
Tagged
Shopping
381260

Therm-a-Rest's Compressible Pillow is perfect for the plane. It comes in three sizes, packs smaller and expands bigger than any other pillow, and is machine washable. Whenever I pull mine out of my carry-on, I get jealous stares: People always ask where they can get one. REI sells the pillows for $18 to $25, depending on the size (rei.com).

— Sheila Lauber

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