I probably like Vietnam, Now by David Lamb the most. He reported from VN in the '90s and gives a lot of cultural insight. But Catfish & Mandala by Andrew Pham is popular, written by Vietnamese American going back to former home on bike.

For Vietnamese lit, predictably most that gets translated is war-related, like Bao Ninh's Sorrow of War, which I did enjoy. Others I enjoyed less. But I REALLY LOVE the Vietnamese book from the early 20s called Dumb Luck by Vu Trong Phuong. It's rather slapstick, like a Charlie Chaplin character in the streets of Hanoi.

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Eugene, Ore. : We are traveling with a group and will be in Hoian March 10 and would like to take a participation or hands on cooking class. Do you have a recommendation? —Sharon

Robert Reid: Hi, Sharon. Nothing beats Vietnamese food. Red Bridge (or Cau Do) is a great place for cooking classes in Hoi An. They have two sessions a day, leaving from the center by boat to a riverside spot towards the beach. It's about $15 per person and you learn to make several dishes, then try it afterward. You should reserve spots, particularly if with a big group, as soon as you arrive. It often fills. Go by Hai Scout Café (98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St) in the center, or call 0510-933-222.

I was there with my wife last summer, but too lazy to do classes—she went in the morning, and I joined them later on and shared the spoils of their time in the kitchen!

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San Francisco, Calif.: Any tips or advice for a single female traveler going to Vietnam?

Robert Reid: In terms of personal safety, Vietnam, like most of Southeast Asia, has about the safest rep for women, solo (or any) travelers. I've not met any women travelers who've had the sort of problems that can happen in places like Indonesia or India. The best advice is keep any flashy necklaces or rings at home, and don't dress up any skimpy clothes. Loose bags sometimes get grabbed from men and women. Some Asian women who travel with white men occasionally get nasty comments (in Vietnamese), usually from cyclo drivers and the like. Otherwise, you'll find it's easy to meet up with fellow travelers to go around with.

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Argentan, France: I'm an American living in France and wish to travel to SouthEast Asia alone next winter starting first in Bangkok and overlanding north and then through Laos and over to North Vietnam and completing a large circle through Cambodia back to Bangkok. I'm planning a month to six weeks. Do you have specific recommendations on stops and durations? What are the best ways to get below the surface of Vietnam, where to you go, who do you try to talk to? With the above question in mind, what can a traveler do in a small village in order to experience below the surface?

Robert Reid: Hi there. Do you have a month to six weeks for the whole trip or just Vietnam? It's actually quite easy to get under the surface in Vietnam. Even if you are just seeing usual places. The key is just doing things on your own and not taking the (convenient, ever present) group tours available.