INTO THE REDWOODS

Secret Hotels of Big Sur

The dramatic scenery is clearly the star along California's Big Sur coast, but these nine hotels—all with double rooms for well under $200—come in a close second. Did we mention the views?

(map by Newhouse Design)

DAVENPORT
Davenport Roadhouse
The former whaling town of Davenport isn't much more than a tiny row of buildings right on Highway 1, the two-lane road that winds along the California coast. One of those buildings is the Davenport Roadhouse. Originally a general store, the Roadhouse had evolved into a restaurant and B&B by the time Renée Kwan, a real-estate asset manager, noticed it as she was searching for good waves to surf. She now oversees the place with managers Jesse Katz, Jeff Hansen, and Robin Sirakides, CFO of Newman's Own Organics. The eight guest rooms in the main house have high ceilings and oversize windows, and they share one large balcony with ocean views. Next to the kitchen garden is a former bathhouse with four more rooms, each with photos of the property and the town from the early 1900s. The restaurant uses local, organic ingredients in its salads and thin-crust pizzas, and for dessert there are gigantic slices of ice cream cake. To create a sense of community, the owners showcase folk singers and bluegrass bands in the restaurant and host rotating art exhibits. 831/426-8801, davenportroadhouse.com, from $120, with breakfast.

APTOS
Sand Rock Farm
Kris Sheehan always kept an eye out for arts-and-crafts antiques--and a small inn where she could show them off--as she traveled the coast for her telecom job. When she found a five-bedroom Craftsman-style home in Aptos, 60 miles north of Big Sur, she pounced, and opened it as a B&B in 2000. The rooms have a country aesthetic--rocking chairs and antique beds--and three have their own hot tubs. But the inn's main appeal is its surrounding 10 acres, which include a redwood grove and four gardens. Lilac and camellia bushes flower in one; rose bushes, protected from deer by a redwood fence, grow in another. Beyond the gardens and past a large wooden barn is an 1897 winery built by the original owner, who abandoned it after producing only one year's worth of wine. Guests have the option of eating breakfast--baked French toast with braised pears, for example, or broccoli and sun-dried tomato frittatas--in the dining room or on the deck under towering redwoods. Unless it's raining, there's really no choice. 831/688-8005, sandrockfarm.com, from $185, with breakfast.

PACIFIC GROVE
Anton Inn
When John Enns landed a teaching position in Monterey in 2003, he and his wife, Gail--and all the art in her gallery in Washington, D.C.--moved to Pacific Grove, a sleepy respite from nearby Monterey. "We couldn't find anything that would be suitable for a gallery, so we bought a motel," John says. Soon after, Gail and their daughter Ilana opened Anton Inn as a motel/gallery, using the slow winter months to renovate. The 10 rooms have new electric fireplaces, tile floors, and subdued color palettes that complement the paintings and sculptures. On Thursday nights, the family hosts dinners for artists and any guests and friends who are interested in art. "We've had golfers, Japanese businessmen, an English playwright, an artistic director from an Israeli kibbutz, newlyweds from Egypt, and a wonderful German woman who spoke no English but delighted us all with her personality," says Gail. "One thing's for certain--it's always an experience." 831/373-4429, antoninn.com, from $119, with breakfast.

BIG SUR
Ripplewood Resort
Back in the 1920s, the Fees, a local family, saw promise in the scenic valley formed by the Big Sur River. They built nine redwood-plank cabins along the river and christened them the Ripplewood Resort. (Eight other cabins, added over the next two decades, sit among the trees across Highway 1.) In 1955, Ted Hartman bought the property; two years ago, his son-in-law, Carl Shadwell, took it over. He and his brother Sean run the place. Room features vary from cabin to cabin: Some have decks, fireplaces, and/or skylights above the showers, and most have kitchens. Carl, a former chef, overhauled the restaurant's menu. "People insisted that we keep the potato casserole," says Sean, "so we had to invent a version we'd be happy with." The result--shredded potatoes blended with sour cream and cheese, and then baked or grilled--is the creamiest, most irresistible hash browns ever. 831/667-2242, ripplewoodresort.com, from $95.

CALIFORNIA CLOSE-UP

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

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Sending a flat-rate Priority Mail box costs $8.10, no matter how much it weighs or which state it's going to. After accumulating too much stuff to fit in my suitcase during a trip to Atlanta, I filled a box with laundry, souvenirs, and gifts for my grandchildren, and mailed it to my home address.

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Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

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During a visit to Mexico City, I was sitting in a plaza near a fountain, watching the locals stroll around in their Sunday best. Nearby, an older gentleman was playing a concertina; his music perfectly framed the scene. I took lots of pictures, but I didn't have a way to capture that music. Now I pack a small tape recorder along with my camera.

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We've noticed that when booking a flight for our family under one reservation, some airlines will only credit the 1,500 bonus miles (500 for booking online, 500 each way for printing boarding passes) to the person whose name the reservation is under. This is regardless of whether the other family members have mileage accounts. To avoid this, make a separate reservation for each of your family members and then pick seats together.

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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

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On international flights, I used to fumble through my belongings--often having to retrieve them from the overhead bin--after a flight attendant appeared with customs and immigration forms. (I don't know of many people who have their passport's number and date of issue memorized.) Now I write all that info on the bookmark of whatever I plan to read on the long flight so I don't have to dig out my passport. I can fill out the card quickly--giving me more time to loan my pen to all the people who never seem to carry one.

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Before you go to sleep, check to see if a previous hotel guest left the alarm clock on. I've been awakened before 7 a.m. twice in the last couple of months by alarms I did not set. (Make sure the clock shows the right time, too!)

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I'm a gadget freak, and I don't like to travel without things like my digital camera and iPod. On one trip, though, I put my camera down in a crowded restaurant and then forgot to put it back in my bag. By the time I remembered it, the camera was long gone. Now, I attach those kinds of items to my daypack with a lanyard. They're still easy to pull out and use, and they never get left behind.

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Paramedics now look for emergency contact information in victims' mobile phones. Store the word "ICE" (In Case of Emergency) in your address book, along with the name and number of the person you'd like emergency personnel to call on your behalf. (For more than one entry, use ICE1, ICE2, etc.) Tell your friends or family members that you've chosen them as your contacts and make sure they're aware of any medical conditions or allergies that could affect your treatment.

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Bring your own linens. They're useful in a million different ways. Obviously a soft cotton pillowcase makes those scratchy airplane pillows bearable, but it can also be used to gather loose items when deplaning. A nice sheet will cover up an ugly bedspread or sofa, and makes a great tablecloth or picnic blanket.

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Instead of dropping my laundry off at the front desk, I take a walk around the block and look for the nearest dry cleaner--probably the same one the hotel would've taken it to. By cutting out the middle man, I pay a quarter of what they charge at the hotel!

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I bought several items while in London and noticed when I returned home that my credit card number was printed in full on each sales slip. (In the United States, usually only the last four digits of the number are visible.) Travelers should be careful when using their credit cards overseas--don't leave the sales slips lying around.

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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

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When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

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I started saving the heavy-duty plastic wrappers that sheets and curtains come in. Most have zippers or snaps, great to hold everything from toiletries to shoes to wet swimsuits. And I bet airport security must love them because they're see-through.

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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

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When parking in a crowded garage, don't settle for the first space available on a lower level. It's probably a half-day hike from the elevator. Instead, drive to the upper levels, where you can usually park right next to the elevator. This tip was very useful in Las Vegas, especially when checking in and out of hotels with our luggage.

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If you're even slightly tech savvy and have a cell phone that will work overseas, check with your service provider about the cost of text messages. Some carriers offer free incoming text messages, and several Internet search engines (Yahoo, MSN, etc.) will send free text-message "alerts" to your phone while you're away. Prior to your trip, log on and request that weather forecasts and news updates be sent to your number daily. Even if you never use your phone for costly overseas calls, you can receive up-to-the-minute information, in English, about your hometown or cities on your itinerary.

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Consider asking your driver or tour guide to haggle on your behalf at bazaars and souks. (But don't let them lead you to places where they might have a connection to the shopkeeper.) The money you tip them will usually be less than the markup on prices for tourists.

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Take along an extra duffel bag for your laundry. As your vacation progresses, throw dirty clothes into the duffel, keeping your suitcase for fresh clothes. At the end of the trip, put a tag on the bag and check it at the airport. This will also give you space in your luggage to bring home souvenirs or new clothes.

— Susan Wiley
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A shoe organizer hung over the bathroom door is my solution for hotel-room clutter. The compartments are perfect for stashing everything from room keys and travel documents to toiletries and, of course, shoes. The extra storage space came in especially handy on a recent cruise, when we needed all the room we could get in our tiny cabin.

— Jane Tague
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In areas where the majority of people don't speak English, head to an Internet café. In our experience, they're full of friendly young people anxious to practice their English.

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I switch from street shoes to flannel-lined moccasins at the airport. It saves time at the security checkpoint, and I'm comfortable during the flight. Once I land, I switch back to my street shoes.

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I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

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Whenever I go somewhere, I bring a supply of postcards from my hometown. I write my name, address, and e-mail on the back, and offer a card to new friends so we can keep in touch. I also pack small souvenirs (key rings, etc.) that carry my local sports teams' logos. They make meaningful but inexpensive thank-you gifts for the small kindnesses that ease one's way during a trip.

— Linda Phelps
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Remember to check the hours of operation for your hotel's airport shuttle. In Rome,we were surprised to learn that our hotel--which touted its shuttle--only offered the service a few hours a day.

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I reverse the batteries in my portable CD player before packing it in my suitcase or backpack, in case it's accidentally turned on when my bag is jostled. I came up with the idea after arriving at my destination to find that the brand-new batteries I'd put into my Walkman were dead.

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