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Trip Coach: March 18, 2008

Gayle Forman, who wrote our March feature story on Nova Scotia and who is the author of "You Can't Get There From Here: A Year on the Fringes of a Shrinking World," answered your questions on Nova Scotia.
Tuesday, March 18, 2008 |

Gayle Forman: Thanks! It's funny but in general I was surprised by how much the place got under my skin. I started entertaining fantasies about living up there in the summer, which I don't usually do after visiting a new place. (And until husband gets a job doing something that gives him summers off, my little fantasy is going to stay a fantasy.) The two big surprises were the scenic beauty and the music. Our family came to Nova Scotia directly after an Alaska cruise, so we'd just come off some awesome scenery. And at first, we were like, "pretty, but..." But the scenery along the Cabot trail (the scenic byway that loops around the northern part of the cape) is breathtaking—seriously, we were gasping out loud in the car as a new panorama opened up—and so varied we could not get over it. And the music. It's everywhere. At first you think it's a tourist thing, piped-in Celtic music, but the Ceilidhs and the dances are part of the local tradition. Everyone plays, it seems, and the music infused the entire island.

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Murfreesboro, Tenn.: What are the five best hikes in Nova Scotia, and what are some of the best wildlife experiences?

Gayle Forman: I'll speak to Cape Breton, as I didn't see much of the rest of Nova Scotia. Cape Breton Highlands National Park has some stunners, particularly The Skyline trail on the west side of the island, which is gorgeous, plus you stand a good chance of seeing moose and whales in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Bog trail, also in the park, is short and runs along an elevated boardwalk through a bog. I'm clearly partial to the Jackpine trail, also in the park. The park has lots of wildlife—moose, fox, coyote, lynx, bear—though we didn't see much. I thought I heard a moose, but it turned out to be a foghorn. Near Baddeck, the Uisge Ban Falls (pronounced Usa Ban; Gaelic, go figure!) came highly recommended by Bethsheila Kent, the hippie naturalist guide I hiked around with. And there are lots of trails in St. Ann's near the Gaelic College along the gypsum cliffs and the inlet. My husband was walking through these woods and the view just opened up onto the water and the highlands and in the distance he heard the sound of someone practicing playing bagpipes. No, really.

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Carson City, Nev.: I have friends and relatives in Nova Scotia and don't get to see them very often—primarily due to the cost of travel getting from here to there. Many times it is cheaper to fly from the west coast to Europe than it is to get to Halifax. Heck...sometimes it's even cheaper to get to Europe than it is to get to Halifax from many northeastern cities (where I frequently find myself on business). What's with that?!! Is Canada trying to discourage tourism? Are there any discount airlines or other deals that can get me there without applying for a subprime second mortgage? Help!

Gayle Forman: See my answer below.

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Chicago, Ill.: Any advice on how to get discount flights to Nova Scotia? I heard there's a new airline called Porter and some other airlines but I don't know if they fly there or how to book 'em. Or should I just use Expedia, etc., and see what pops up?

Gayle Forman: I'm always a huge fan of Kayak.com, which consistently gets me the best fares no matter where I'm going. That said, the New York City-Halifax route is only served by a few flights, so you're not likely to get discount fares. Interestingly, we were actually in Vancouver, BC before going to Nova Scotia and I'd thought it would be easier and cheaper to fly within Canada but it actually turned out to be a better deal (and shorter flight) to drive down to Seattle and fly back to New York (Newark, really) and fly up to Halifax from there. Halifax is a good drive to Cape Breton (3-4 hours). There is a local airport in Sydney (Cape Breton's largest city), but flights there are very expensive and require a stopover. Porter Air is a new Canadian carrier, but to fly to Nova Scotia (Halifax) you first have to get yourself to Toronto or Ottawa, though that may change.

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Nova Scotia: Was there something you had wanted to include in your story but couldn't and ended up on the cutting room floor, so to speak, that was a real great tip or anecdote?

Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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