FEATURE

I Married a Non-Traveler

To celebrate our 10th anniversary, we invited readers to pitch us ideas, and we sent five of them on assignment. This writer took her husband to Mexico for a relaxing vacation with a side of adventure.

BJ and Dana with Norma, the Spanish instructor, at Posada Dos Ceibas in Tulúm

About the author
Dana Lucero, 32, manages public involvement for light-rail projects in the Portland, Ore., area. Her husband, BJ Moghadam, 33, is a government-affairs rep for an energy utility. "I once said to my husband, 'You know that air that widely traveled people have? I want that.' BJ says he wants it, too, but while my goal is to see and do new things, his is to relax. My travel résumé is modest, but I've had those hysterical, scary, stirring moments. BJ doesn't know what he's saying 'nah' to. So I've made a five-step plan to open his eyes."

***

Go someplace that'll appeal to both of you
When BJ hears "vacation," he sees himself on a beach, holding a cocktail, with no must-sees or must-dos. Tour schedules and crowds give him shivers. But I want to go new places. I crave that palpable aura of history, that evidence of human art and invention. I needed a destination we'd both find fulfilling. I brainstorm, research, and talk to family and friends. With its gorgeous beaches and ample activities, Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula floats to the top. I begin putting together a 10-day itinerary.

Slow down the pace
I have a hunch that Cancún will align with BJ's notion of a getaway. The trip from the airport will be quick and painless, and the amenities and activities (like golf) will be familiar and accessible. Relaxation will commence sooner rather than later.

Our first three nights are at the Ambiance Villas, on the postcard-worthy beach of Kin Ha. The night we arrive, we sit at the palapa-roofed restaurant and alternate between deep sighs of contentment and rounds of belly laughter. Knowing we're 20 paces from what tomorrow will surely be that impossible Caribbean blue is deeply satisfying.

The next morning, we make our way to the open-air breakfast spot. When we see the Caribbean, we gawk like children. And then we hit the beach.

Golf, motorized water sports, massages.... The BJ-friendly activities I planned fade away like my cubicle pallor. I anticipated a slow pace, but I've never seen BJ voluntarily pass up a round of golf. He's content, so I'm content. We'll explore later.

Give him a mission
BJ and I retained remnants of high-school Spanish, and two Christmases ago, he bought us lessons on CD. The unopened box turned as dusty as our Spanish skills. Before our trip, I broached the idea of language classes in Mexico. He consented, and in the subsequent weeks, he even unpacked the CDs and put the files on his iPod so he could brush up at the gym.

I discovered The Pink Iguana Language School on the Internet. Its semi-intensive program (two hours a day for five days, either at our hotel or at the base in Tulúm) seemed right for us.

So three days into our trip—tanner, fatter, and with looser shoulders—we rent a car and drive 80 miles south. After a lunch of fish tacos, we meet Norma, our instructor. The first lesson takes place that day at a little house in Tulúm. By the end of the two hours, we're laughing and joshing like old friends. (Some of my Spanish is evidently rather blue.)

We arrange for the rest of our lessons to be at our hotel. Posada Dos Ceibas is exactly what we both wanted. Eight cabanas dot the intimate beachfront property. Each morning, we wake to the toots and whistles of birds, then meander over to a breakfast of eggs, beans, and fresh bread. And then it's time for a lesson. Norma is a wonderful storyteller, a welcome interjection between conjugation lessons. In five days, our comprehension surprises us all. We're equipped to shop, inquire, and befriend in Spanish.

Ease into new experiences
My pre-trip research turned up a multitude of guided, nature-based activities, but we opt to explore the area on our own, in keeping with BJ's preference for no schedules and no crowds.

Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve is just a few kilometers from Posada Dos Ceibas. The enormous reserve includes lagoons, mangroves, dunes, archaeological ruins, and exotic wildlife. For several hours, we poke around the reserve's beaches and scenic spots along the jungled stretch of road from Tulúm to Punta Allen. We top the hot afternoon off with icy margaritas and crunchy tacos at the Centro Ecológico Sian Ka'an, where, if you are so inclined, you can book half- or full-day tours.

On our one cloudy day, we visit the Mayan ruins at Tulúm. The walled site sits on a bluff above the sea, and the stone buildings date from the 1500s and earlier. Our hotel's staff advises us to go early, before the tourist buses arrive—this is enough to get BJ to commit to an 8 a.m. excursion. We make our way along the low stone wall and through a narrow entrance into the guarded portion of the ancient city. Signs tell the story of what once was a fort and sacred site along an important trade route. We wander, and admire, and take far too many pictures.

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Planning
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If you're traveling overseas, be sure to check the fine print concerning passports (go online or call the country's embassy). I had three months before my passport expired and found out at the last minute that I needed six months' leeway to enter Tahiti. Luckily, I was able to get a new passport just in time for my vacation.

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Carry a twist tie in your wallet. Among other ingenious uses, a twist tie can temporarily replace a lost screw on a pair of glasses. Just peel the paper or plastic off the tie so you have bare wire, insert it where the screw once was, and twist to tighten. Unlike Scotch tape or a safety pin, a twist tie is small enough to remain hidden and strong enough to hold until you're able to replace the screw.

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If I plan to travel to several countries that use different currencies, I pack a few cloth change purses: U.S. dollars go into one, British pounds in another, euros in a third, etc. When I'm sightseeing, I carry only the money I need; the purses that I'm not using are locked away in the hotel safe. I avoid fumbling around in shops and mixing up coins that look alike. Plus,I always know exactly how much cash I have.

— Peg Welch
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Transportation
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

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Packing
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If you plan to travel to a less-developed country, pack an extra suitcase with hand-me-downs of all sizes. Housekeepers and other resort workers make so little money that the clothes are greatly appreciated. On your way home, you can use that empty suitcase for souvenirs.

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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

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Whenever I'm in a country where drinking or brushing my teeth with the tap water is a risk, I cover the faucet handles in my hotel bathroom with a towel. As a result, I never accidentally turn on the faucet when I'm half asleep.

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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

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My friends and I contribute to a kitty and use that money to pay for group expenses such as taxis and meals. It saves us from having to figure out each person's share at every stop. At the end of the trip, we split what remains.

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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

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Love researching your destination online, but don't know how to organize all those printouts, maps, guidebooks, and tips? I get a 5 x 7" spiral notebook (Mead makes one with a sturdy cover and a pocket insert), a set of index tabs, and some glue. Divide the notebook into sections with the tabs (sights, maps, currency converter, restaurants, etc.). Photocopy—in reduction mode—all the info you want to bring, and glue it into the appropriate section. I leave plenty of pages for my journals. This creates an all-in-one personal guide that you can read again years after your trip!

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Planning
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I teach a Tulane University seminar on independent European travel for first-timers. Until recently, I advocated Europe's great rail networks as the way to go. Now, with the plethora of budget airlines, I recommend a combination of the two. But it makes the planning stage—which I find almost as much fun as actually taking the trip—more involved. Thank goodness for whichbudget.com, a Web site that lists, by city, which budget airlines serve which cities. Then, to find links to all of Europe's state railway Web sites, visit railfaneurope.net. Each site generally features a travel planner and, almost invariably, an English-language option.

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Solo Travel
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When I travel to a new city, I check with the local running club to see if there are any events planned during my stay. The entry fee is usually donated to a charity, and I get great exercise, meet locals, and tour a part of the city I may not have known about.

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Transportation
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My husband and I always travel around Europe by train. When we arrive in any city, we first stop at a ticket window and get all the information we'll need for the next leg of our journey. This gives us plenty of time to find an English-speaking ticket agent who'll print out departure times and platform numbers for us. Before leaving the station, we can note the location of the platform we'll be looking for that morning. One wrong move when you're rushing for a train and you could end up in the wrong city!

— Betty Lynn
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Packing
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In order to provide any reimbursement for a lost suitcase, most airlines and insurance companies require an itemized list of exactly what was inside it. Unfortunately, remembering everything you packed after the fact is virtually impossible. To avoid the headache, take pictures of the items you're going to put in your suitcase with your digital camera or cell phone. The photos will make creating the list a breeze, and, in the event of a dispute with the airline or insurance agent, you have some visual evidence of ownership.

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Technology
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Download the most up-to-date airline schedules from the individual airline Web sites to your PDA before you leave home. Should you encounter a delay or cancellation at the airport, you'll have all the information needed to find another flight quickly.

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Hotels
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— Don Carne
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To save space, pack items for travel that you can use in at least two ways. In a pinch, shampoo can double for detergent when washing your clothes (carry the bottle in a Ziploc bag in your suitcase); sandals or flip-flops also function as slippers; and a swimsuit cover-up can serve as a bathrobe.

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You can suspend more than your newspaper when you're away. On several occasions, DirecTV has agreed to put my account on hold while I was traveling--without penalties, additional fees, reconnection charges, or the like. So, instead of a monthly bill of $65, mine gets prorated.

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Planning
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Check out grocery stores in Europe for bargains on wine. On our last trip to Italy, I found a 1993 Banfi Brunello in a small market for $16. If I could find it at all in my local wine shop, that same bottle would cost more than $100. I only wish I had listened to my husband and bought all three of the bottles the store had.

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When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world.

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Finding the bathroom in the middle of the night in a strange hotel room or cruise-ship cabin can be a challenge. Leaving the bathroom light on seems wasteful and makes the room too bright for sleeping. My husband and I used to travel with a night-light, but we couldn't always find a convenient place to plug it in. We've recently discovered a better solution: plastic light sticks. They come in several glow-in-the- dark colors and are activated by bending the tube into a circle and connecting the ends. Each evening, we hook one of the loops over the bathroom-door handle, where it provides a gentle glow through the night.

— Carol Attar
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Cruises
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Some cruise lines offer discounts on a future sailing if you book it while on a current cruise. Back home, you can transfer the booking to your travel agent and work with them to try to lower the price even further. You'll be able to cancel your booking at no cost if you follow the cruise line's cancellation schedule. This is a great way to get some of your onboard expenses paid for in advance.

— Jeff Putel
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Rental Cars
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I always take a digital picture of the gas gauge to prove that I returned the rental car with a full tank. Some agencies try to charge for a minimal amount of gas when they "top off" the tank (which you're not supposed to do anyway). I've used these digital photographs to get refunds for gas charges that appeared on my credit-card bill after the fact.

— Jeff Mishur
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Packing
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Place a fabric softener sheet in your suitcase when packing. It'll absorb odors and dampness and keep clothing smelling fresh. It's most beneficial in warm, humid climates and while at sea. I found this quite useful during my twenty-three years in the U.S.Navy.

— Edward Jewell

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