After the barkeep announces that it's last call, the piano player, who has performed at Durty Nelly's for 46 years now, lingers to tell jokes and laugh with the crowd. Out of nowhere, an a cappella seisiún begins. A young woman sings a mournful tune about a lover lost at sea, followed by an older man's baritone tribute to County Donegal. The crowd then invites JP and me to share a few of our own songs, backed only by the swishing sound of the barkeep sweeping the floor. It's a sweet decrescendo to our trip.

Lodging

Will Ferrell and JP in Galway (Irene Williams) [enlarge photo] EVER DREAM OF BEING A TRAVEL WRITER? • A Family Trip to Hong Kong • A Treehouse Adventure • The No-Frills African Safari • I Married a Non-Traveler • On Tour in the Emerald Isle

McCarthy's
Quay St., Westport, 011-353/98-27-050, mccarthyslodge.com, from $110

Almara House
2 Merlin Gate, Dublin Rd., Galway, 011-353/91-755-345, almarahouse.com, from $124

Activities

Bunratty Castle
N18 Limerick-Ennis Rd., Bunratty, 011-353/61-360-788, tour $23

Nightlife

Matt Malloy's
Bridge St., Westport, 011-353/98-26-655, mattmalloy.com

Tig Coili
Mainguard St., Galway, 011-353/91-561-294

Dolan's Pub
3-4 Dock Rd., Limerick, 011-353/61-314-483, dolanspub.com

Durty Nelly's
N18 Limerick-Ennis Rd., Bunratty, 011-353/61-364-861, durtynellys.ie