ROAD TRIP

A Quest Called Tribe

Robbie Rubly-Burggraff moved to Navajo Nation 18 months ago, but she still hadn't explored its northwest—so she enlisted the help of a Navajo friend.

DAY 1
My friend Shirley and I are in a store in Tuba City, Ariz., stocking up for our road trip when I realize that I'm rushing around. Frantically searching for peanut butter, I look like I have somewhere important to be, while everyone else is moving at a casual pace. I smile to myself—adjusting to the local rhythms might not be so easy.

Navajo Nation is a self-governing homeland for the Navajo people that occupies 27,000 square miles across three states: Arizona, Utah, and New Mexico. The lives of the Navajo are difficult; many of the people live in poverty, and the unemployment rate is about 50 percent. I moved here when my husband took a job at a hospital in Fort Defiance, Ariz., near the New Mexico border. Shirley has lived here her whole life, but there are many things even she doesn't know about her land. So we're both pleasantly surprised by the Explore Navajo Interactive Museum, which teaches visitors all about Navajo culture.

We watch a movie on the Emergence Story, which explains how the Diné (the term the Navajo use to refer to themselves) believe the universe was created. At the Clan Wheel, Shirley enters the names of the clans she was "born into" (her mother's people) and "born for" (her father's people). She spins the wheel, and it gives her the names of all the Navajo clans she's related to. She has a lot of relatives! The Navajo believe it's important to know who your relatives are—in times of trouble, you'll know who to ask for help.

Before checking in to the Quality Inn Navajo Nation, we go shopping—but this time for souvenirs, not supplies. The Tuba City Trading Post is one of the few remaining trading posts set up by whites in the late 1860s, when the Navajo returned to their ancestral lands following their forced relocation to New Mexico years before, a tragedy known as the Long Walk. At the time, the posts were the only places where the Diné could trade with whites. Now run by the Navajo, the post sells crafts to tourists. I buy a bumper sticker that depicts Geronimo and a group of Apache warriors and reads: "Homeland Security—Fighting terrorism since 1492."

Lodging

Activities

  • Explore Navajo Interactive Museum Moenave Rd. and Main St., Tuba City, 928/640-0684, explorenavajo.com, $9

Shopping

  • Tuba City Trading Post Moenave Rd. and Main St., Tuba City, 928/283-5441

DAY 2
Driving west through the empty red-rock desert, I spy a sign not far out of Tuba City advertising Dinosaur Tracks. Impulsively, we make a sharp turn onto a dirt road to see them. There are so many footprints that Shirley says this must have been "where boy and girl dinosaurs got together to dance."

Back in the car, Shirley pops in a tape of her father singing songs in Navajo. I've barely started to learn a few of the words when we decide to stop at an artisan's roadside stand on Highway 89A near Marble Canyon. There are stands like this all over Navajo Nation, where locals sell handicrafts to support themselves. Shirley is looking for jewelry, and sure enough, the craftswoman, Vera Yazzie, is selling juniper-seed necklaces and bracelets. According to the Navajo, the seeds offer protection from all kinds of evil. We buy six of the necklaces ($5 to $15 each) and wear them for the rest of the trip to make sure that nothing bad happens to us.

The Navajo Bridge is just up the road. When the bridge was constructed in 1929, it was the world's largest suspension bridge and the only place within 750 miles where one could cross the Colorado River. A new bridge has since been built for cars, but the original bridge is still used by pedestrians and bungee jumpers (though I later learn that bungee jumping is prohibited there).

As we drive into Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, we see huge boulders strewn about, as if giants had tossed them at each other in a battle. The road winds around cliffs down to Paria Beach, where the green-blue waters of the Colorado are rushing by. This is where Grand Canyon rafting trips begin, and it's the only spot where you can drive to the banks of the river. Shirley and I rest on a rock in the sun and wonder why people work so hard—hiking or riding a mule—to reach the river from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. On the beach, we meet a Navajo family who had just caught three trout in the river.

NAVAJO NATION

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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Before you leave the United States, photocopy receipts for any expensive items you're taking with you. This way, you won't have to argue with customs on the way home about declaring items you didn't buy abroad. (I'm a photographer, and I always bring expensive cameras on vacations.)

— Derrick Du
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During the hot months of summer, I plan to travel with a very small spray bottle. I'll fill it with water and use it as a mister to keep cool. I got this idea when we stayed at the Noga Hilton in Cannes. On the dresser was a pink aerosol can full of Evian water. I took it with us sightseeing and, wow, it was so refreshing to spritz water on our faces.

— Joy Shebroe
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Cruises
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If you go directly from the air-conditioned ship out onto the open-air deck (which is usually warmer and more humid in most cruise destinations), your camera's lens is likely to fog up. Warm the camera with your cabin's hairdryer on a low setting or briefly leave it out on your balcony so it can acclimate to the weather.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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We all know to avoid drinking tap water in certain countries, but remember to forgo ice cubes, too. I've started bringing along two ice trays, which I fill with bottled water and freeze in my hotel room's mini-fridge.

— Christa Babel
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Road Trips
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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Car Rentals
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I've saved lots of money using AAA. In addition to providing excellent roadside services (help with stalled cars, lost keys, etc.), most AAA chapters offer discounted tickets to Disney World and a preferred parking pass that enables you to grab specially designated spots near the entrances. It's a dollar saver, and you don't have to walk far or take the trolley in the parks!

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Packing
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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I unpacked a pair of black slacks recently to find them covered with white fuzz. I didn't have a lint brush handy, so I used the luggage sticker from my bag--the gummy side took the lint right off.

— Joyce Barbatti
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Air Travel
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For long overnight flights, pack a dry washcloth in a Ziploc bag in your carry-on. Before landing, ask the flight attendant for a cup of hot (not boiling) water. Carefully pour the water into the Ziploc bag and then wipe your face and hands with the steaming cloth. It's like a portable sauna!

— Henrietta Scarlett Ober
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Place a coin over the veins on the inside of your wrist (about two finger widths from the base of your palm) and secure it in place with a rubber band or ponytail holder. The gentle pressure of the coin will stimulate nerves that control nausea, just like the motion-sickness bands that are sold at drugstores.

— Connie Crusha
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To feed a family of four in a very expensive tropical location like Anguilla or Bermuda (or most other Caribbean locations, for that matter), check to see if your hotel has phone books and look up the local pizza place. Nine times out of ten the pizza purveyors will deliver for free. You'll end up spending no more than $20 on pizza, bread sticks, and soda.

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Before traveling overseas, look at your health insurance card. If it only shows an 800 or 888 number for precertification of hospital admissions, call that number and obtain the local number with an area code. Many 800 numbers can't be dialed from foreign countries. I learned this the hard way during an emergency hospital admission in Switzerland. The delay in reaching my carrier could have been avoided.

— Chris Carveth
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Dining
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In North American cities with large Chinese communities, choose a family-run Chinese restaurant and ask for the set family meals, usually written in Chinese. They are more authentic than those typically offered to tourists and people who are not Chinese—not to mention a better value. In San Francisco, for example, you can enjoy a five-course meal, which easily feeds a family of four, for less than $20.

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Road Trips
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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When you go to a convention or trade show, don't assume that the official prices at recommended hotels are the best you can do. Go to the hotel Web site. I recently got an AARP rate at a major hotel that was 30 percent below the special price offered through the tradeshow sponsors. AAA discounts often work, too.

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Preserve even the small number of frequent-flier miles you may obtain by making occasional use of a particular carrier; the miles can be worth money. Even if you don't regularly fly on Delta, Northwest, Continental, or several other airlines, sign up for their frequent-flier programs when you book a long or overseas flight. Points.com allows you to redeem miles for magazine subscriptions, music downloads, and other products. You can also use miles to get small discounts on purchases at retailers such as Amazon.com.

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I always snap photographs of scenic highway markers, park entrance signs, and the like. These informational photos are put into our album to help identify the many sites that we visited.

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Before my last long flight, I went to librivox.org and chose a bunch of books, short stories, and poems to download to my iPod--for free. The site has both adult and children's books, and the list is growing. All of the titles are in the public domain, and they're read by volunteers, so there's no question of copyright infringement. Even if you don't own an iPod, you can download them to your computer and burn them onto a CD.

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Anyone traveling with multiple electronic devices (laptops, PDAs, cell phones, digital cameras, MP3 players) can easily confuse all the accessories that come with them. To keep all battery chargers, USB cables, media cards, and owner's manuals safe, dry, and organized, place them in individual Ziploc bags. You can put a label inside the bag to identify the contents, and one label wrapped around each cable to identify it.

— Alyse Liebowitz
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If you book a package over the Internet, print out all the details of what's included and take it with you. When a hotel desk clerk in Paris said that the breakfast buffet we had enjoyed for the previous seven mornings was not included in our package, I was able to show him the printouts and prove him wrong. He apologized profusely and wiped the breakfast charges from our bill.

— John Lavelle
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Air Travel
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It's often cheaper to buy a ticket to London and then fly onward within Europe via a regional low cost airline. Last summer, my husband and I bought consolidator tickets to London for $397. From there, we flew EasyJet to Nice for $72. The total cost was $469—much less than flying directly to Nice, plus we enjoyed a stopover in London.

— Jasmine Tata
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Once we know where we're going, my girlfriends and I divide up the list of things we'd like to do on our trip and put someone in charge of each item on the list. Then that person does the legwork by finding directions and prices, making reservations (if necessary), and researching nearby places to stop for a snack or a meal. Our method means that no one person is doing all the planning.

— Carol J. Leisch
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My daughter and I bought disposable digital camcorders at a CVS pharmacy before going to Europe. It was a nice way to document our trip--each camera stored about 20 minutes of video. Once home, we dropped the cameras off at the pharmacy. The next day, our DVD was ready. We were very pleased with the quality and the cost: $30 for the camera and $13 for each DVD.

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My hearing loss once made it impossible to hear any alarm clock. Then I found the Shake Awake, an alarm clock that vibrates. I no longer stare at the ceiling all night prior to an early flight in fear of oversleeping. I clip Shake Awake to my pillow or place it on a hard surface near my bed, where its rattling definitely gets my attention.

— Kathy Hopkins
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Safety
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A simple but effective anti-pickpocketing measure is to fasten a safety pin across the opening of the pants pocket on the inside. Leave enough room to pull your wallet out with some effort, but not enough for a quick hand to lift it in a second or two.

— Rusty Cartmill
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Finding healthy breakfast alternatives at an airport can prove difficult. I always travel with an insulated travel mug. Before leaving home I fill it with a high-protein cereal and then request low-fat milk on the flight.

— Randy Hartselle
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My husband and I create personal cards (like business cards) before we leave home. We put our name, address, phone, and email address on them, as well as a picture of us. How many people have gotten home from a trip, looked at a slip of paper with a name and address, and wondered, Who is this? The picture helps link a name to a face.

— Susan Fornoff
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Whenever my husband and I get new pairs of eyeglasses, we relegate the old ones to our luggage, along with an inexpensive repair kit from the drugstore. If something happens while we're away from home, we can hopefully fix the glasses ourselves. If they're beyond saving, we have the backup pairs to get us through the rest of the trip.

— Carol Alabaster
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When my husband and I travel, we take at least three different credit cards. I carry one he doesn't have, he carries one I don't have, and we both bring our primary card. If one of us has our wallet stolen, we can cancel two cards and still have one to use. We each have different ATM cards, too--useful if a machine doesn't honor one of the cards, or if we need more cash than our daily limit allows.

— Joyce Morden
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Photography
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Carry a Polaroid camera when traveling to developing countries. In Cambodia, several village children gathered around us, posed enthusiastically for pictures, and were fascinated by their images in our digital camera. We wanted to send them the pictures, but they were unable to tell us their address. Polaroids would have solved the problem!

— Cynda Perun

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