ROAD TRIP
In Through the Outdoors
Northwest Montana has world-class hiking and rafting—not to mention huckleberry milkshakes that'll knock your boots off.
DAY 1
Glacier National Park, the vast protected wilderness area in northwestern Montana, has always loomed large in my imagination—the dizzyingly steep mountain peaks, the glaciers remaining from the last ice age, and the mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and, of course, bears. The thought of coming across a bear on a hike is actually petrifying. My friend Ellie and I will be arming ourselves with plenty of bear spray.
But we have some exploring to do in the towns before we get to the park. In Whitefish, a historic railroad community, we stop for lunch at the Bulldog Saloon, which is decorated with dozens of wooden plaques depicting bulldogs (the local high school's mascot). Neither of us knows what to expect from the sour-cream-and-chive fries Ellie orders along with our burgers, but after one bite, she's hooked: "You need to taste these fries. Now."
A block away, Mrs. Spoonover's ice cream shop looks like a grandmother's home, with its doilies, denim tablecloths, and teapots lining the shelves. The friendly owner, Judy Scallen, whose silver hair is piled up in a bun, serves us Montana-made ice cream that she says contains the highest percentage of cream possible. I have a scoop of huckleberry—a berry native to the Northwest—and it would satisfy even a 5-year-old's sweet tooth.
Although we're pretty full, we can't resist a free sample in the tasting room at the Great Northern Brewing Company, especially when the beers have names like Buckin' Horse and Hellroaring. Since there isn't a tour—you just look at the tanks and pipes through a glass wall in the tasting room—we go down the street to split a beer at the Great Northern Bar & Grill (which has no affiliation with the brewery). We contemplate spending the day there, listening to a guitarist and drinking microbrews, but the annual Northwest Montana Rodeo awaits in Kalispell, 20 minutes to the south.
On our way out of town, we stop at Cowgirl Coffee. Ellie is delighted by all the souvenirs, particularly a T-shirt that says ONE SINGLE TALL COWGIRL, PLEASE. Outside, she sets the timer on her camera to take a photo of us on a bench with COWGIRL HEAVEN painted on the backrest.
The real-life cowgirls racing their quarter horses around barrels are the highlight of the rodeo, although we're also impressed by the bull-riding and cattle-roping competitions. After a huckleberry milkshake, we leave to find our hotel. The Kalispell Grand Hotel, which was built in 1912 and recently renovated, retains an old-fashioned ambience, right down to the plate of cookies left in the lobby for guests to snack on.
LODGING
Kalispell Grand Hotel
100 Main St., Kalispell, 406/755-8100, kalispellgrand.com, $99
FOOD
Bulldog Saloon
144 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/862-5601, fart-slobber.com, burger $5
Mrs. Spoonover's
533 Second St. E., Whitefish, 406/862-9381
Great Northern Bar & Grill
27 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/862-2816, greatnorthernbar.com
Cowgirl Coffee
6356 U.S. 93 S., Whitefish, 406/862-5338
ACTIVITIES
Great Northern Brewing Co.
2 Central Ave., Whitefish, 406/863-1000, greatnorthernbrewing.com
Northwest Montana Rodeo
265 N. Meridian Rd., Kalispell, 406/758-5810, nwmtfair.com, from $13
DAY 2
Charles E. Conrad is just fascinating: We're taking a tour of the house he built in Kalispell in the 1890s—now known as The Conrad Mansion Museum—and the guide is regaling us with tales about the charismatic shipping magnate. He represented Native American tribes in a land-treaty negotiation with the British in Canada! He could communicate in several Native American languages! The house is really interesting, too, with all sorts of quirky "modern" conveniences, like a speaking tube connecting the kitchen and the bedroom, and water fountains with compartments for ice blocks to keep the water running cold. Then the guide says something that floors me: Some of the light sockets contain the original bulbs, which still work today. (They'll function until the filaments inside break.)
By the time the tour is finished, Ellie and I are itching to be outdoors. We've arranged to go white-water rafting on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River with the Glacier Raft Company. On the gentle flats of the river, I feel like I'm in A River Runs Through It. I only start to become nervous as we approach a set of rapids named the Bonecrusher, which is truly frightening in the early summer when the river swells with melting snow and ice from high in the mountains. Now, in August, the rapids aren't bone-crushingly intense, but a man in our group does go overboard. He's mortified when his 7-year-old son excitedly offers to jump in and save him from the shallow water.



