URBAN RENEWAL

What's Up, Dock?

Copenhagen's postindustrial waterfront is turning into a nice place to spend an afternoon—or longer.

Copenhagen Opera House

It's Sunday around 3 p.m. at Halvandet: Dance music wafts through the thatched-roof open-air bar, coworkers play miniature golf on a sand-strewn course, and young Danes in jeans and dresses lounge about in beach chairs, sipping bottles of Tuborg. No one minds that Halvandet is a "beach bar" without an actual beach.

Like many cities with industrial ports, Copenhagen built docks and warehouses along its harbor, turning it into an area that tourists and the vast majority of Danes never visited. But over the past decade, the shipping industry has shrunk and naval bases have closed, and the city has been transforming waterfront warehouses and docks into parks, cultural centers, restaurants—and even seasonal bars and swimming pools.

Copenhagen straddles two islands, and its harbor runs along the edges of both in the northeastern part of the city. Prominent sites, like Tivoli and the Strøget shopping drag, are on the west, while the best-known part of the east is the Christiania community. In addition to several bridges, municipal "water buses" connect the two sides, shuttling between the Royal Danish Playhouse, which opened in February, and the Copenhagen Opera House, north of Christiania, built in 2004.

Not far from the opera house, sidewalks disappear; urbanness gives way to meadows and small lakes dotted with herons. "This whole area used to be a military base blocked off by a big fence. No one knew what was behind it," says Camilla Roslind. She and her partner, Jan Flemming, bought an 18th-century ammunition warehouse when the Danish navy abandoned its Copenhagen base and started selling off its holdings. Last June, Camilla and Jan opened Krudthuset, a kid-friendly, organic restaurant, in the space.

Krudthuset—along with the theater and the opera house—is actually part of a second wave of development in the new harborfront neighborhoods. The first was less official. "Where the opera house now stands, people had just tossed out sand and opened beach bars," says Birthe Bertelsen, a development consultant for the city of Copenhagen. "There was a time lapse between the old use ending and the new use of the space beginning." Indeed, Camilla and Jan held underground parties in another warehouse that they've since converted into apartments.

Those bars closed when construction on the opera house began, but others, like Halvandet, have cropped up elsewhere along the harbor. After being in operation for more than five years, Halvandet finally received a temporary license from the city last summer. "I invested 4 million kroners [$800,000] into this bar, so it was a huge victory," says owner Jens-Peter Brask. Rasmus Pors, founder of one of the original beach bars, is now behind Kulturkajen Docken, a cultural center and beach bar that opened last summer in the northwestern harbor area of Østerbro.

Established developers are also getting involved. In late 2006, British design guru Terence Conran transformed an abandoned customhouse-cum-ferry terminal near the Royal Danish Playhouse into a complex called Custom House, home to three restaurants. Custom House has since added an outdoor terrace overlooking the opera house on the opposite side of the harbor and now sells packages that cover dinner, post-opera drinks, and the five-minute water-taxi ride to and from the performance.

The city liked Custom House so much that it's using it as the anchor for a new waterfront area with a restaurant, a promenade, and an outdoor event space; the first phase is under construction.

The harbor's first waterfront park was in the Islands Brygge neighborhood to the south, on Amager Island. The city set up a temporary swimming pool in the harbor in 2002; public support was so strong that the following summer, the city replaced the pool with a permanent structure, Havnebadet. It has five pools, one with two high dives. "Areas get popular when there's something to do there," explains Nanna Sørensen, manager of a waterfront cultural festival, Kulturhavn, that takes place every August.

The original Havnebadet pool was towed across the harbor; it sits near Copenhagen Island, a hotel that opened in 2006. For those who want to actually stay on the water, not just on the waterfront, there's a 12-room houseboat hotel, CPH Living, debuting this month about 100 yards north of Havnebadet. Rates were initially set to be around $175 but are now projected to start at $300—a sure sign that the demand for a harborfront experience is only on the rise.

LODGING
Copenhagen Island
Kalvebod Brygge 53, 011-45/3338-9600, copenhagenisland.dk, from $200

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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If you visit a country where you don't speak the language, pick up a book of your hotel's matches or one of its business cards; they usually have the hotel's name and address printed on them. Then when you're out sightseeing and want to return to your hotel, show the matchbook or card to the cabdriver if he doesn't speak English.

— Verne F. Noyes
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If you get lost on a ship, remember that most share a common layout. The lido-deck buffet restaurant, for example, will almost always be in the back to accommodate comfortable outdoor seating in the least windy part of the ship, while the lounge/theater will be in the front because wind is not a factor (there are no windows).

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Use an empty M&M's Minis tube to carry quarters. The top holds tightly, but still pops open easily enough, and the size is perfect to slip into a car door or bag. I find it very useful when traveling by car (for tolls and parking meters) and by airplane (for luggage carts or newspapers).

— Judi McDowell
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Driving around Italy last summer, my husband and I found that even the most detailed maps left us scratching our heads in confusion. Desperate and lost, we decided to follow a tour bus. Guess what? It got us exactly where we wanted to go.

— Cindy Marcus
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Create your own postcards by writing on the back of photographs that you've taken and developed while still on your trip.

— Connie Van Brocklin
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Ever since my children were small, I've carried recent, wallet-size pictures of them when we all go on vacation, in case we get separated. Now that they are teenagers and traveling with friends' families, too, I send pictures for the other family to bring along with them. I also write my telephone numbers on the back of the pictures so they know where to reach me in an emergency.

— Ruth Ann Newsum
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Bungee cords make versatile travel accessories. They come in handy at the airport for lashing a duffel bag to a wheeled suitcase. They can be hooked together and used as a clothesline for swimsuits, towels, etc. On skiing trips, hook them onto ski boots to create carrying handles. While camping, use them to secure tarps, to suspend a lantern from a nearby tree limb, or to secure items in a canoe. They even hold your pants up if you misplace your belt.

— Keith Saul
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A company called Orikaso makes brightly colored polypropylene sheets that can be folded--kind of like origami--to form a dish, bowl, or cup. The sheets are lightweight and reusable, and you simply flatten them when you're finished. We found ours at a sporting goods store, but you can also buy them online. Check orikaso.com for retailers.

— Susan Day
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Put your perfume and cologne bottles inside pairs of rolled-up socks to keep them cushioned during your journey.

— Joia Starks
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If you have to save receipts while traveling, purchase a plastic coupon holder to help you keep track of them (it'll also protect them). Label each section of the coupon holder by category (hotel, rental car, gas, food, etc.) or by day of the week. The coupon holders are compact and easily fit into a laptop case, purse, or travel bag.

— Ursalene Davis
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It helps to have a calculator if you plan to do a lot of shopping in foreign markets. When you find something you like, hand the seller the calculator and ask him to enter his best price. It's easy to convert the response into dollars so you know what you're spending. If necessary, the calculator can be used to haggle, especially if you don't speak the language.

— Becky Sapp
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If you even manage to get a cell signal while at sea, your roaming charges will be outrageous. To communicate with your cabinmates, leave Post-it Notes on your door detailing where you'll be throughout the day.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Baby wipes aren't just for babies. Slip a travel-size pack into your carry-on bag and use the wipes to kill germs on public toilet seats and in phone booths. In a pinch, they can also remove stubborn stains from clothing.

— Farrah Farhang
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We rented a car last summer to tour northern Italy. Initially, we contacted Europcar (europcar.com) and got a quote of more than $500. We then clicked on a rental-car link from Best Fares (bestfares.com) and received an offer that knocked off about $50. When we mentioned to Europcar that we'd seen lower offers on the Web, they told us that if we sent them the URL and they could verify the offer, they'd match it. We eventually found a car that was an additional $100 cheaper from a British company. Europcar-which offered better service for our itinerary-accepted that lower price, saving us $150.

— Marcia Meyer
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For the most comprehensive information regarding travel by train or by ship, check out seat61.com. I've found that the site has all sorts of helpful advice for Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Middle East.

— Kay Bozich Owens
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Before you head to the airport, stop by the front desk of your hotel or cruise ship and ask if they'll print your boarding pass for you. It'll save Internet browsing fees and time at check-in. It's worked for me at several Marriott hotels and on a Celebrity cruise.

— Rose Jakubaszek
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When seeking a cheap airfare, don't forget to consult the Web sites of the major charter tour operators--like Apple Vacations, TNT Vacations, Vacation Express, or SunTrips--which frequently sell air-only tickets in addition to air-and-hotel packages. Doing so helped me slash the cost of round-trip airfare to visit my mother in Las Vegas by well over 50 percent.

— Pam McMenamin
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Before you book a room over the phone, peruse the hotel's site for its "Web only" rate. It's often cheaper than the best quote you'll get by calling. Recently, over the phone, I was quoted a daily rate of $129. I booked the same room online for $89.

— Ying Wang
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My husband and I are retired, and we take two trips abroad each year. When unpacking, I put items we use repeatedly on each trip (flashlight, alarm clock, travel-size toiletries, etc.) into a box and keep it stored near the suitcases. No more searching or trying to remember if I've got everything for the next journey—it's all in one place.

— Mary Meikle
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Pack light, or that great deal you found on airfare won't seem that great. On a Ryanair flight between Glasgow and Dublin, my husband and I were charged over $100 for excess baggage weight (the airline tickets themselves cost less than half that). Be sure to check the weight limits—especially on low-fare airlines—before you leave home.

— Lynne Heath
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If you're packing a lunch to eat later in the day, freeze a 16-ounce water bottle and pack it, along with yogurt, cottage cheese, a ham sandwich, or whatever in a light- weight, insulated bag. Your snacks will remain cold, and you can drink the water.

— Jackie McGraw
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I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

— Kelly Malasics
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On my first trip to Cancun, I noticed that my hotel room had a damp, musty odor. The next time I went, I brought two plug-in air fresheners: one for the bedroom and one for the bathroom. This helped tremendously. It was a pleasure to walk in and have a fresh-smelling room. Just make sure you have an adapter, if you need one.

— Anita Rivera
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Booking condos last minute can yield incredible bargains, and there's a way to maximize savings while minimizing the risk that you won't find a room at all. ("Last minute" generally means a month or less before your stay; seven-day deals usually start on a Saturday.) Buy your plane ticket and book a refundable hotel room you can use in case you can't find that bargain condo. Then, a month or so before your trip, start looking at last-minute sites—lastminutetravel.com, site59.com, etc. If you find a deal, simply get a refund on the hotel room and pay the cancellation fee, if there happens to be one. Using this technique, I found a great beachfront, one-bedroom condo on Maui—and I saved about $300.

— Joan Chyun
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I've found that by wedging a bath mat under my hotel-room door, I can reduce any light or noise coming from the hallway—ensuring that I'll sleep better.

— Louisa Elder
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To find a reasonably priced villa or apartment to rent, try going directly to the owner through a site such as abritel.fr. (Click on the British flag for English.) I arranged to spend two weeks in an apartment in Brittany and one week in an apartment in the Loire Valley, all for a total of $800.

— Suzanne Maurice-Roberts
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If you know you'll be cooking while on vacation, bring along small amounts of the spices you need for your favorite recipes. You'll save by not buying large containers of spices.

— Joan Phillips
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Destinationcoupons.com supplies free discount coupons for cities all over the United States and the world. Print them out on your home computer and save on hotels, shows, rental cars, restaurants, and many other activities.

— Donald Bertolet
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My husband and I travel to out-of-the-way towns where rural roads can be hard to navigate. We use a handheld GPS (Global Positioning System) to mark the spot where we're staying, the main highway turnoffs, and, most important, the turns to unmarked side roads. When we're back-tracking and arrive again at confusing intersections, we whip out our GPS and immediately know which route to take home.

— Florence McGinn

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