ROAD TRIP

Painting the Desert Red

Where else but in charmingly offbeat New Mexico can you find people living in 'earthship' homes or a Wild West town where outlaws—and ghosts—are said to have roamed?

Visitors center for the Earthship World Headquarters (Amanda Friedman)

DAY 1
"Red or green?" the girl at the counter asks me. I've been anticipating the question for weeks, determined not to look like a tourist. No New Mexican worth her salt would hesitate to answer. Still, having pored over many websites comparing chili sauces in recent weeks, I can't decide if my huevos rancheros crave the red variety or the green. Luckily, this is not a weekend, when the line snakes out the door at Albuquerque's Frontier Restaurant, so I've got time to think. I compromise by ordering both—"Christmas" style. As for my fiancé, Dustin, he's so pleased to be eating spicy, sauce-doused food first thing in the morning that he could care less what color it happens to be.

Under a perfectly blue sky, we drive north after breakfast toward the Jemez Mountains, passing red mesas dotted with bristly piñon trees and porous rocks that remind me of drip- sand castles. By midday, we reach the dusty town of Jemez Springs, home to a smattering of art galleries, sun-beaten cafés, and a bathhouse supposedly once frequented by Al Capone—according to local legend, he had a hideout in the mountains here. With the temperature in the 80s, Dustin looks at me like I'm crazy when I suggest we soak in one of the private tubs, which are fed by springs as hot as 190 degrees. Instead, we drive out of town and dip our feet in the cool pools at Soda Dam, where the water has created bulbous formations in the rock. Soaking up the sun, Dustin lets out a totally relaxed sigh.

Taking a circuitous route through the mountains, we arrive in Santa Fe just before nightfall and check in at The Madeleine, a gorgeous 1886 Queen Anne Victorian bed-and-breakfast. Then we head straight across the street to the hotel's sister property, Hacienda Nicholas, to partake of the free spread of wine and cheese before eating dinner at a place with a mildly unappetizing name: The Shed. The food proves to be amazing, though. I have the enchiladas with red chili sauce (no problem deciding here—it's the house specialty), and Dustin gets the pollo adobo, blue tortillas served with red-adobo-marinated roasted chicken. We finish off the night with Horny Toad margaritas at Cowgirl BBQ, where I fantasize about becoming one of the sassy servers in cowboy boots and miniskirts. I could probably match their snappy repartee, but I think I'd have to lengthen my skirt a bit if I really wanted to make the career change.

LODGING
The Madeleine
106 Faithway St., Santa Fe, 888/877-7622, madeleineinn.com, from $120

Hacienda Nicholas
320 E. Marcy St., Santa Fe, 888/284-3170, haciendanicholas.com, from $120

FOOD
Frontier Restaurant
2400 Central Ave. SE, Albuquerque, 505/266-0550, frontierrestaurant.com, huevos rancheros $6

The Shed
133½ E. Palace Ave., Santa Fe, 505/982-9030, sfshed.com, pollo adobo $13.50

Cowgirl BBQ
319 S. Guadalupe St., Santa Fe, 505/982-2565, cowgirlsantafe.com, margarita $7.50

ACTIVITIES
Soda Dam
Hwy. 4, two miles north of Jemez Springs, Santa Fe National Forest, 575/829-3535, fs.fed.us/r3/sfe

DAY 2
Just as we're starting to forget our lives back in New York, we meet Jeffrey, an artist who says he spent part of the 1980s in Manhattan "running around in costumes." He later moved to Santa Fe and became the manager and chef at Hacienda Nicholas. "At my age," he says as we sample his basil, tomato, and artichoke quiche at breakfast, "Santa Fe is a much better place for the soul."

Dustin and I set out to see for ourselves. We stroll down to the main square, which is lively even in the morning, with tattooed hippies hanging out on park benches and Native American jewelry vendors selling their wares on blankets. I'm mortified when I mangle the word for the Navajo people, the Diné (dih-neh), but the men find it hilarious. After I buy some roasted corn to munch on, we cross the plaza to the Santa Fe Boot Co., where Dustin strokes a pair of soft alligator-skin cowboy boots. "These are unbelievable," he says. I look at the price and can't believe my eyes: They cost $2,800! I nudge him toward the door before he starts having his own cowboy-boot-wearing fantasies.

SLEEPING BEAUTY

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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