Trip Coach: November 11, 2008

Stephen Keeling: Hi Dan! I'd start with "Legends of Puerto Rico", who tend to arrange the best guided tours of Old San Juan on foot (legendsofpr.com, Tel: 787/605-9060). Four hours should be enough to get a taster of the old town (which is where the cruise ships dock), though I'd certainly recommend coming back to Puerto Rico to really make the most of it! As for focus, given you'll be wandering around the old city, I'd concentrate on history; El Morro, the massive fortress guarding San Juan Harbor, is the premier sight, and the nearby historic cemetery is wonderfully picturesque. You should also check out the Galería Nacional, an easily absorbed gallery of Puerto Rican art, the cathedral, and the central square, the Plaza de Armas (where the kiosks serve great coffee). If you can squeeze it in, visit Casa Blanca, a gorgeous old mansion dating from the early sixteenth century. You have plenty of choice when it comes to lunch! Assuming you want to try Puerto Rican food, I'd recommend El Jibarito, at Calle Sol 280, which serves cheap and tasty local dishes, or Café Puerto Rico, at Calle O'Donnell 208, which knocks out excellent mofongo (mashed plantains stuffed with meat), the national dish.

_______________________

Alexandria, Va.: We are going to Puerto Rico for Christmas. What can you tell us about the festival of masks and can you give us some tips about going to see them?

Stephen Keeling: The Hatillo mask festival (Festival de las Máscaras) is one of Puerto Rico's most exuberant celebrations, so you are in for a real treat! Held on December 28, the festival actually commemorates King Herod's attempt to kill baby Jesus by ordering the murder of all first born sons. These days it's a big party; the men of the town wear florid masks and costumes to collect money for local churches or charities (with as many pranks as possible), there's a big parade with floats, lots of mouth-watering food and plenty of music and dancing.
Given the thousands that turn up to celebrate, visiting the festival can be tricky! The best way would be stay near the town: the Parador El Buen Café (elbuencafe.com) is a decent three-star hotel on the main highway just outside Hatillo. Once there, the hotel should be able to help with local taxis. Failing that, you can drive to Hatillo from San Juan in around one hour, but I'd leave really early!

_______________________

Philadelphia, Pa.: Probably a weird question to some since PR is know for sun and fun, but we are a family of five that like the water, but not the sun. We are picking PR because of the many activities besides from the beach. Because of this, we have many must-dos that are not beach oriented, like Old SJ, the caves on the north coast, rain forest, Ponce, etc. We would like to include the beach probably daily, but not lay out in the sun all day and do day trips in the morning. Where would you suggest we stay? I am thinking a rental in Luquillo, which could get us near a lot of what we want to see, but I am thinking that a better place would be west of OSJ rather than east. Note: we also want to do some snorkeling. Planning on early April. Thanks!

Stephen Keeling: Thanks for the question—not weird at all! There's more to Puerto Rico than sun and sand, that's for sure, so you have plenty of options! Luquillo is a good idea, as it has some fabulous beaches, and is a short drive from the El Yunque rain forest and San Juan; it's also close to the attractions of Fajardo and the ferry to Vieques and Culebra. Having said that, you could also opt for somewhere on the north or even west coast, which can also provide access to some enticing attractions inland. My two picks would be Boquerón, on the southwest coast, and Playa de Jobos, on the northwest coast. Plus points for Jobos: the beaches are excellent, there's great snorkeling at Playa de Shacks nearby (as well as horseback riding) and it's a short drive into the mountains (the Bosque Estatal de Guajataca is one of the best state forests for hiking); and you could be in Old San Juan within two hours. Boquerón is a trek from San Juan, but the beach is truly magnificent, and you have Ponce and San Germán, another historic gem, within easy striking distance. On top of that, you could explore the other-worldly landscapes and reserves of Cabo Rojo, the mangroves (by kayaks and boat) of La Parguera (also good for snorkeling), and the tranquil dry forest reserve near Guánica (which has numerous hiking trails). Both places have plenty of accommodation options (hotels and self-catering apartments). Hope that helps—have fun!

_______________________

Stamford, Ct.: I would like to go to Puerto Rico and in the past I learned that there is a road around the Island that can be traveled by car, and you can stay in private Inns. Is this true? How can I arrange to do the trip? Thanks, Sara

Stephen Keeling: Hi Sara—yes, Puerto Rico has the best highway system in the Caribbean and you can drive all over the island by car. Sections of the coast—the southeast and northwest in particular—feature lovely, usually empty roads that boast fantastic views of the sea. In other areas, especially near the cities, you'll find jam-packed highways that are as busy as anything in LA or New York. You can certainly stay in private inns along the way; the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association website is a good place to get some ideas puertoricosmallhotels.com.

_______________________

Nampa, Idaho: What should I see/do on the one day my cruise ship docks at San Juan? I'm talking 12/8/08.