BEAT THE CROWDS

On the Road in Northwest Argentina

With its vast landscapes, picturesque villages high in the Andes Mountains, and burgeoning tourism infrastructure, this region around Salta is on a growing number of travelers' wish lists.

Vicuñas live on the high-altitude plains of the Andes (Michael Mohr)

SALTA
Colonial buildings, restaurants, and museums all radiate out from Salta's manicured main plaza. About a two-hour flight from Buenos Aires, Salta is the jumping-off point for exploring the region. Get your fill here before renting a car and leaving most of humanity behind.

See Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña is the resting place for three mummified Incan children discovered in 1999 on the Llullaillaco volcano on the Chilean-Argentine border ($4.50, closed Mondays). Sacrificed to the Incan gods more than 500 years ago, the children are remarkably well preserved because of the volcano's high altitude and dry air. The nearby Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes has a fine-art collection that rivals its gorgeous 18th-century complex of courtyards, narrow balconies, and airy galleries (60 cents, closed Sundays).

Eat At La Casona del Molino on the edge of town, it is easy to feel like you've stepped back in time a few centuries, as you dine on parrillameat slow grilled to melt-in-your-mouth tenderness—and listen to a guitarist sing Spanish and Argentine folk songs (011-54/387-434-2835). The chef at restaurant Jose Balcarce uses native foods like quinoa and llama to concoct flavorful, only-in-Salta dishes like llama carpaccio (011-54/387-421-1628).

Shop Local artisans show off their handiwork, including silver jewelry, carved maté cups, and paintings, at the Sunday market on Balcarce Street.

Sleep Carpe Diem Bed & Breakfast stands out for its personable service and homey feel (doubles from $74). Each room is decorated with antique furniture and has a computer with free high-speed Internet access. Co-owner Silke Schefold de Morsani is a great source for advice and help with making reservations for restaurants or car rentals.

Prep You can pick up a rental car in Salta; Europcar has an office in town, at Cordoba 20 (011-54/387-421-8848). Credit cards are accepted at many hotels and restaurants across the region, but swing by an ATM before hitting the road; ATMs in smaller villages can be finicky with international cards.

TO THE NORTH
Leaving Salta, drive north to the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a windswept gorge that cuts through the Andes and forms a natural corridor from Argentina to Bolivia—a path once well trod by the Inca. Purmamarca, one of the southernmost villages in the Quebrada, is backed by a striking polychromatic hillside, Cerro de los Siete Colores. Wander the village's dusty streets, visit the Iglesia Santa Rosa de Lima off the south end of the plaza, and enjoy dinner next to the fireplace at Los Morteros (011-54/388-490-8063).
Sleep Hotel La Comarca on the outskirts of Purmamarca has a spa and a heated pool. Cactus-lined doors open up to bedrooms with wood floors and inviting white linens (doubles from $108). The hotel's restaurant terrace overlooks the surrounding mountains and encourages lingering over morning coffee.

Route 52 snakes west from Purmamarca through a valley and rises to cross a mountain pass of nearly 13,700 feet. On the other side awaits Salinas Grandes, a blindingly white salt flat. The wind whips across the expansive plain, leaving a sense of emptiness and profound quiet. Wild donkeys and vicuñas, cousins to the llama, graze along the grassy patches lining the edge of the salt flat.

Turning back, pass through Purmamarca and drive 14 miles north to Tilcara, a village with leafy courtyard cafés and shops selling pottery and handwoven ceremonial blankets. A ticket to Museo Arqueológico—repository of artifacts found across Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, and Peru—also provides entry to the Pucara de Tilcara, a pre-Hispanic fortress set amidst a grove of cardón cacti behind the village (011-54/388-495-5006).
Sleep The rustic adobe houses of Cerro Chico are clustered on a hillside outside Tilcara (doubles from $47).

Almost constantly clear, blue sky frames the whitewashed colonial buildings and adobe houses of Humahuaca, a village about 24 miles north of Tilcara and more than 9,000 feet above sea level. It's the gateway to the puna, the high plateau landscape of the Andes that stretches onward to Bolivia. You're likely to feel the effects of the altitude, so take your time exploring the town's cobbled streets. Stop at the Iglesia de la Candelaria on Plaza Sargento Gómez to see the 18th-century oil painting The Twelve Prophets. At the restaurant Casa Vieja, decorated with colorful textiles and woven baskets, you can get tamales and locro, a hearty stew of corn, squash, and beef (011-54/388-742-1181).
Sleep Hosteria Solar de la Quebrada has six cozy rooms, some with views of the village (doubles from $44).

ARGENTINA'S BEST-KEPT SECRET

Note:This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
 
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It's easy to lose track of time in a windowless interior cabin. Before going to sleep, tune into the ship's bridge-camera channel for real-time videos of the front (or bow) of the boat. The screen will act like a virtual porthole, and you'll rise and shine with the sunrise.

— Martha and Ken Wiseman
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Many computer photo albums use camera date stamps to organize collections. Whenever you're traveling in a time zone that might affect the date stamp (if you're crossing the International Date Line, for example), remember to reset your camera's clock.

— Michael Gray
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At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes.

— Katrina Shelton
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Packing
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I try to avoid checking any luggage, but the airlines are getting stricter every day about the size and weight of carry-ons. So when I pack, I put any important stuff in a plastic bag and place it in a front pocket. If I'm told to check my carry-on when I get to the gate, I can just pull out the smaller bag and board.

— Alena Kerins
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Car Rentals
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Whenever I know I'll be renting a car, I pack a couple of folded paper towels and two small spray bottles--one filled with window cleaner and the other with Rain-X, a product that repels raindrops. It's hard enough driving an unfamiliar car in an unfamiliar location. At least with a clean windshield I'm able to see properly, no matter the weather.

— Ed Rainer
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Get the right maps. For road trips on the Continent, European maps are much more helpful when it comes to reading road signs. They'll say Napoli instead of Naples, Firenze rather than Florence. I could spend all day waiting for a road sign for Munich and miss the exit for Munchen.

— Cynthia Stone Stewart
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The best carry-on bag that I've found is a gardener's tote. It has lots of pockets on the outside and room inside for a medium-size purse, yet it's small enough to sit comfortably at my feet on a bus or plane.

— Sheila Monk
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Air Travel
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Check fares periodically after booking your airfare. The airline may have a sale, and buying new tickets could save you money, even after you pay the change penalty. My wife and I used Travelocity's Fare Finder to pocket $187 each on a recent trip from Seattle to New York City, simply by re-ticketing.

— Doug Rittenhouse
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Paper place mats can be useful anywhere there's an outdoor shower. By stepping onto a place mat after a bush shower in Botswana, I managed to keep my feet clean and avoided getting dirt in my clothes.

— Sandy S. Hogan
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Before I visit poorer countries, I pop into a thrift store and pick up some toys, stuffed animals, and an old suitcase or carryall. I try to avoid toys like Easter bunnies or Santas, which could be offensive, and expensive things that might embarrass parents. The contents of my extra bag bring joy to countless kids who have never had a thing.

— Ingrid Newkirk
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Every year, I get address labels from numerous charitable organizations. I keep them with me when traveling because it's the quickest way to provide my address to new friends, enter prize drawings at shops, sign guest books, etc. It's not only efficient; it can also help spread the word about worthwhile charities.

— Carole Wilk
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By starting a blog for each trip--at blogger.com, among others--you can keep your friends and family up-to-date on your adventures. All you need is an Internet café to add entries and photos while you're on the road.

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Safety
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Our bags have been stolen twice from inside locked rental cars. Now we travel with a bicycle cable and lock. If we absolutely have to leave our suitcases in the car, I hook them together by the handles and attach the whole thing to the frame of a seat or a secure item in the trunk. Even if thieves manage to get into our car, the cable will make it very difficult for them to make off with the luggage.

— Karen McCarty
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Treat yourself to a golf-ball foot massage. During a long flight, or afterward in your hotel room, take off your shoes, put a golf ball on the floor, and roll it under your foot. It's a great stress reliever. Practice a bit before you try it on a plane, so that your ball doesn't go rolling down the cabin, tripping up unsuspecting passengers.

— Dawn Yadlosky
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I take each of my grandchildren on a road trip the summer each turns twelve. The trips range in length from two weeks to a month and require careful packing. I've learned to put our clothes and any snack items we'll need in large plastic bins that fit in the back of my minivan. We each bring a small bag and pack it every evening with items we'll need for that night and the next day: no lugging heavy suitcases in and out of motels or hotels.

— Patsy Maddox
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I always bring a small flashlight to hotels in case there's a blackout. The building may not be equipped with emergency lighting, and, if necessary, my flashlight will help me quickly locate the nearest exit.

— Lois Meshonek
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Just before I go through airport security, to save time and to avoid leaving something important behind, I collect all loose items--change, money clip, belt buckle, pens--in a large Ziploc bag. I send the bag through the X-ray machine with the rest of my luggage. After picking it up at the other end, I put the things back in place and either toss the bag or keep it for the return trip.

— Rodrigo Fernandez
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Some people think that traveler's checks aren't necessary anymore, but they really can be useful in a variety of situations. My ATM card wouldn't work on Easter Island, where most restaurants did not accept credit cards and wanted to be paid in pesos. Luckily, our hotel cashed my traveler's checks and gave me the pesos I needed. On Dominica, my purse was stolen. But because I had traveler's checks stashed away in my luggage, the vacation wasn't ruined. I always travel with what I call the "trusty four": American dollars (lots of ones and fives divided up and hidden in several locations), traveler's checks, an ATM card, and a credit card.

— Jeanette Cantwell
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Disposable-camera lenses scratch just like any other lens would. Place a small piece of painter's tape (or another kind that won't stick too much) over the lens to protect it from contact with other items in your purse or backpack during travel.

— Hugo Scherzberg
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I work for a major airline and can attest to this tip for redirecting lost luggage. Place a copy of your itinerary--including contact info for where you're staying--inside your checked suitcase. If name and flight tags are missing, we'll still know where your bag needs to go.

— Michelle Keonig
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When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2,3,or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night!

— Geri Kronyak
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Even if you're staying at a standard resort hotel, take advantage of the day passes sold by many all-inclusive resorts (i.e., the right to use their facilities--such as swimming pools and beach chairs--and enjoy their meals for a day). The passes are primarily designed for cruise passengers on day trips but can be obtained by anyone for very little money. For persons staying in a less-expensive, no-frills hotel, it can give you the experience of a larger, more extensive resort for a day or two.

— Mandy Vieregg
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Want to visit museums with your children without the boredom and tears? Go to the gift shop first and buy postcards of the museum's most famous works. Have your kids treasure hunt for these masterpieces. When you get home the postcards can go right into your trip album.

— Daphna Woolfe
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I like to bring a Frisbee when I travel. At the hotel, it's a convenient place to collect car keys, loose change, my ChapStick, and any other small objects I normally keep in my pockets. I always know where everything is, and things won't fall off the nightstand. It's also handy to have so you can play Frisbee at a nearby park or beach.

— Margot Johnson
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When buying bottled water, look at the bottle cap to see if the seal is still intact. While visiting the Acropolis on a very hot day this summer, I caught a young boy refilling empty water bottles from a tap and recapping them. He was then selling the bottles to thirsty tourists.

— Alice Atkinson
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Before you head to the airport, make a list of all the items in your checked luggage that would be prohibited in your carry-on. If an item (such as a knife for a picnic) makes its way into your purse or daypack during your travels, it should be accounted for when repacking and put into the checked piece to avoid hassles at airport security.

— Nina Gormley
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When renting a car, photograph any damage the car may have before leaving the rental agency; a digital camera records the date and time of each picture. On a recent trip to Argentina, I rented a car with extensive paint damage. When I returned the car, the agency attempted to blame me for the scratches. I showed them my photographs, and they rescinded their accusations.

— Richard L. Garcia
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If you wait to buy a discount-granting Entertainment Book until around six months before it expires (expiration is usually scheduled for November), you can often buy a $20 to $47 book for as little as $10, plus $5 shipping. Online access to the coupons is sold for $7 a month. These are great for vacations out of town.

— Kitty Bennett
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I used a well-known travel site to price tickets for a trip to Las Vegas. The flight I wanted was available, but I decided to wait to see if prices would come down. That flight stopped being listed after a week, and the next best flight kept getting more expensive. About five weeks later, I checked prices from a different PC. Whaddya know? The original flight was available, for $50 less than that next-best flight. That same evening I checked again from my PC. The flight I wanted was not available,so I deleted the cookies for the site and tried again. Voilà! The flight I wanted at the price I wanted. Moral of the story: Clean up your cookies—it could save you money!

— Kelly Malasics
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Before leaving for a vacation, I print out all our reservations and directions, and I create a contact sheet for emergencies. Then I gather all the papers together, punch some holes, and place them in a folder that has a middle section for three–holed papers. The side pockets hold brochures, business cards, ticket stubs, receipts, and maps that we collect along the way and want to bring home for our scrapbook.

— Sonal Gupte

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